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  1. #31
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    Quote Originally Posted by jacobk View Post
    So no spark with the 9v test and thats the positive of the 9v going to the brown wire to the stator. Not the brown wire going to the cdi. To make sure i got that right.
    Whats next all the ohm testing?
    yes, 9volts to stator Brown wire

    Dig into the heavy electrical. The MFD should never self-reboot. Not while cranking. Not while running.

    Something is resistive or failing in the primary circuits.

    Remove, inspect and clean both ends of both battery cables. Clean the grounding bolt and the threaded hole in the engine. You want clean metal to metal contact.

    If still not right, work along the black wire ground system from the stator back into electrical box. All blacks should measure zero ohms to engine case (with battery disconnected).

    After that, thin red wire from solenoid stud into electrical box. Battery disconnected, should be zero ohms from solenoid stud all the way to MFD fuse and skinny NFD tab terminal. Including the circuit breaker (aka Reset button).


  2. #32
    Okay i will check that out thanks. One think that seems different from what you are describing is, sense i have owned it, that thin red wire is connected to the end of the thick wire that connects straight to the battery. Not sure if it makes any difference but the thin wire doesn’t come from the thick wire on the solenoid stud side. Should that be flipped?

  3. #33
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    Quote Originally Posted by jacobk View Post
    Okay i will check that out thanks. One think that seems different from what you are describing is, sense i have owned it, that thin red wire is connected to the end of the thick wire that connects straight to the battery. Not sure if it makes any difference but the thin wire doesn’t come from the thick wire on the solenoid stud side. Should that be flipped?
    As long as that thin red wire is getting full battery voltage, doesn’t matter which end of the heavy red cable it is getting it from.

    Up to you to confirm the voltage going into the electrical box is indeed full battery voltage (no voltage drop), and not weakened somewhere along the way.

  4. #34
    So the positives readings where the same. The negatives had some increase in ohms. If the probs touched it read about 3 than when check grounds would go to about 7-8.
    i disconnected the spark plug wires and they all read open. No connection between ends. I think that means they are gone. If that's right? I couldn’t get the ohm to beep at all no matter how i touches the prob to the ends. They were new. I want to say they where oem parts. Any upgraded cords possible and what could cause all 3 to go out?

  5. #35
    Click avatar for tech links/info K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jacobk View Post
    So the positives readings where the same. The negatives had some increase in ohms. If the probs touched it read about 3 than when check grounds would go to about 7-8.
    i disconnected the spark plug wires and they all read open. No connection between ends. I think that means they are gone. If that's right? I couldn’t get the ohm to beep at all no matter how i touches the prob to the ends. They were new. I want to say they where oem parts. Any upgraded cords possible and what could cause all 3 to go out?
    You are using ohm measurement mode on the meter, or circuit continuity mode? They are different measurements, with different units.

    On most digital meters continuity mode the meter beeps when probes are touching and ohm measurement mode does not.

  6. #36
    You are so right on the beeping being a different setting: I did not notice that before. Changes the testing completely after going back through everything, I hooked up the black ground wire that goes to the display and to the other black wire going to the ground unit and it was jumping back and forth between open and resistance even with holding it tight and still. So did the purple and red wire. I think that is my problem. It explains why the display did the strange turning on and off and the main wire harness is the last thing I haven't replaced electronically. Probably could have saved a lot of money if I knew how to work a multi-meter the right way lol. Best place to buy a wire harness? ebay?

  7. #37
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    Quote Originally Posted by jacobk View Post
    You are so right on the beeping being a different setting: I did not notice that before. Changes the testing completely after going back through everything,

    I hooked up the black ground wire that goes to the display and to the other black wire going to the ground unit and it was jumping back and forth between open and resistance even with holding it tight and still. So did the purple and red wire.

    I think that is my problem. It explains why the display did the strange turning on and off and the main wire harness is the last thing I haven't replaced electronically. Probably could have saved a lot of money if I knew how to work a multi-meter the right way ...
    Not quite sure what test you were doing, but I will mention that OHM tests cannot be properly measured if the PWC battery is hooked up.

    Ohm meter and even continuity tests are only valid when applied to UNpowered electrical circuits.

    Tip: If the ohm meter has automatic ranging (and many multi-meters are) then just fingers touching the meter probes or ends of the wires under test can influence the displayed numbers.

    A potential gotcha with auto-ranging multi-meters is when the meter is reporting an extreme high reading, and you don’t notice it is showing MEG-ohms rather than straight ohms or perhaps Kilo-ohms.

    So 1.2 MEG ohms is essentially an open circuit while 1.2 ohms is close to a direct connection. Both will show 1.2 on the display, but if the M is shown that makes a big difference.

  8. #38
    well the used different wire harness came in, i hooked it up and it did nothing still no spark not sure what to do now? i'm lost every test that i have done have passed.

  9. #39
    hooked up the 9 v battery to the stater and on the ohm setting it jumped to 102 ish on the meter than back to open as the magnet past. did this for the red blue and green wires is that normal to be that high or does it matter? going back through and testing everything and the 15 amp fuse that the power comes in to has a resistance of about 7.8 is that okay?

    well just checked voltage over the old fuse and new fuse when at rest it's 12.6 volts at the red purple wires at the board and when cranking it is 11.4 to 11.6 voltage while cranking . so that should mean the fuse and the battery are good. i'm lost again. still no spark
    Last edited by jacobk; 07-08-2019 at 06:39 PM.

  10. #40
    not sure what has changed but i do now have spark but still not starting even with starter fluid and spark looks like it could be better charging battery up now to test again with full charge. could reeds go bad and cause no starting? i even sprayed starter fluid in the 1st piston and no start. thinking if the reeds are locked up it might not be getting enough oxygen?

    also found out the last owner of the waverunner had sucked up a anchor rope locking it up in the past. it has run many times since than but thought it might help lead me to the actual problem i'm dealing with if that could have anything to do with hard start.

    also have two mfd that when trying to start will go through the whole rpm start up thing every now and than trying to start?
    Last edited by jacobk; 07-09-2019 at 02:14 PM.

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