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  1. #11
    Much appreciated!

  2. #12
    Hit a snack removing the Coupler - any suggestions?

  3. #13
    Click avatar for tech links/info K447's Avatar
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    Arrow How to loosen PTO coupler using rope inside the cylinder (works for flywheels too)

    Quote Originally Posted by dkcarter240 View Post
    Hit a snack removing the Coupler - any suggestions?
    Yummy, isn't it

    You need to remove the PTO to drive shaft coupler from the rear of the engine?
    Are you replacing the coupler, or just need some room to work on the drive shaft and bearing?

    You can use the rope trick to hold the crank shaft while you undo the PTO coupler (if that is what you need to remove).

    Note: Always put the rope into the cylinder closest to the end of the engine you will be working on.

    Remove all spark plugs. Find a clean piece of 3/8" rope (or the largest size rope that will go into the spark plug hole). The rope should be several feet long.

    Put a finger or thumb over (not IN) the spark plug hole for the PTO (rear) cylinder (since that is the piston closet to the PTO coupler).

    Turn the engine over by hand using the coupler (turn counter clockwise, the same direction you will be unscrewing the coupler) until you feel some mild compression pressure inside the cylinder.

    If you are not sure, keep turning the engine over in the same direction a few turns, until you get a feel for where the compression on that cylinder starts.

    Stop turning the engine. At this point, the piston has covered all the ports inside the cylinder.
    Note: This is so you don't snag the rope in a port opening inside the cylinder, and damage the lip of the piston when you torque on the crank shaft.

    Now feed as much rope as you can into the spark plug hole. You don't have to force it in, but you want to fill up the space above the piston with rope.

    Now hand turn the engine a little farther in the same direction, to confirm the rope will hold the piston.

    Now you can apply a large wrench to the PTO coupler. It unscrews in the normal direction.
    Last edited by K447; 11-13-2010 at 01:52 AM.


  4. #14
    I have to replace the Coupler - the rubber boot inside is shredded in the old 1 and came all the way out. I'm not sure i follow the rope trick - is there a tool that can be purchased that will help? If so any suggestions where i might find one?

  5. #15
    Click avatar for tech links/info K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by dkcarter240 View Post
    I have to replace the Coupler - the rubber boot inside is shredded in the old 1 and came all the way out.

    I'm not sure i follow the rope trick - is there a tool that can be purchased that will help? If so any suggestions where i might find one?
    I re-worded the rope trick post.
    Does it make more sense now?

  6. #16
    Yes i believe i understand now. Question - as long as you make sure you don't get the rope into any ports this technique is pretty safe? I mean not much chance you can cause internal engine damage by doing this?

  7. #17
    Click avatar for tech links/info K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by dkcarter240 View Post
    ...Question - as long as you make sure you don't get the rope into any ports this technique is pretty safe?

    I mean not much chance you can cause internal engine damage by doing this?
    No risk of engine damage as long as you keep the rope out of the ports.

    The pistons and bearings can easily handle the pressure.

    In fact, the more rope you can stuff in there (without it getting into the ports), the less pressure on the internals when you apply torque to the end of the crank shaft, as it holds the piston farther down in the cylinder.

    Just make sure the rope is always in the cylinder closest to the end where you are working, and you have positioned the piston correctly to resist the turning force you are about to apply.

    If you stuff the rope in, and then discover that the engine spins 1/2 turn before stopping, then you need to pull the rope out, and do it again

    Don't use a stiff rope, or one that is crumbling or shedding.

  8. #18
    Got the coupler taken care of - thanks a million the rope worked perfect! Any chance you could tell me what the rubber piece that plugs into the thru hull housing and slides over the shaft, outside the hull, might be called? Can't find it on the Babbits diagram and the one that was on there is shot and cannot be reused...

  9. #19
    Click avatar for tech links/info K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by dkcarter240 View Post
    ...what the rubber piece that plugs into the thru hull housing and slides over the shaft, outside the hull, might be called?

    Can't find it on the Babbits diagram and the one that was on there is shot and cannot be reused...
    Could you post a clear photo of the item?

    It sounds like it might be the seal that fits around the drive shaft where the drive shaft slides into the impeller...

  10. #20
    I can't seem to figure out how to post a pic on here but the mechanic at the local Polaris shop said it was the seal for the impeller - PN 5411644 which is item 21 on the Propulsion tab on Babbits. Problem is I did not take that assembly apart so i don't think he is right... It looks like a plug that is hollow, has 3 ridges and then a lip on the top. Does that help?

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