Results 1 to 10 of 31
-
11-21-2008, 06:26 PM #1
Tip of the day: Stainless Steel Wear Ring Removal
This method was sent to me by a friend of mine. Hope it helps someone in the future.
First step is to find yourself a piece of 2 1/4 " aluminum pipe with a 1/4" wall at least 12" long. A longer piece would work better for the extended rings, but its not that important. Make sure that the end that will be contacting the pump is smooth and free of any nicks or grind marks.
The pipe will contact the hub of the pump as shown in this photo.
Place the pump in the freezer for several hours. For those worried about rust, there should be plenty of grease there to protect your bearings and the seals are quite capable of handling the temps.
Remove from the freezer and with a heat gun or touch evenly heat up the pump housing around the outside where the wear ring is located. You don't have to get it scalding hot but I would recommend gloves, since you will have to handle the pump after this.
Once its nice and hot, turn over the pump holding it by the vanes and with your other hand place the pipe inside and line it up with the hub. Now, holding the pump and pipe with both hands, making sure the pipe is lined up with the hub, strike the tube on a hard surface, the top of your vise, cement floor etc. ****NOTE***** you are not striking the tube with the pipe, but moving the pump and pipe as one part, there should be no space at all between the pipe and the hub, this is critical to avoid damage to the hub. This method will create sufficient force to break the wear ring loose.
It should only take a knock or two to jar it loose and then a couple more to get it out.
-
11-21-2008, 06:47 PM #2
Good info Jerry!! As I was installing one of the extend wear rings in last night, I was wondering how the hell I would ever get it out!!!!
-
11-21-2008, 07:30 PM #3
Awesome tip ! I love basic physics !
-
11-21-2008, 07:36 PM #4
looks good! to keep from fumbling with holding the pipe in place, wonder if a piece of rubber hose w/clamps to join the pump hub and the pipe together would work?
-
11-21-2008, 08:00 PM #5
-
11-21-2008, 08:02 PM #6
Also, since a piece of 2-1/4" aluminum pipe is not readily accessible for most folks, how about using a piece of hardwood like hickory or oak? Drill the center to clear the shaft.
-
11-21-2008, 08:07 PM #7
- Join Date
- Aug 2005
- Location
- Jerry's guest bedroom
- Posts
- 3,469
- +1
- 2
-
11-21-2008, 08:11 PM #8
- Join Date
- Aug 2005
- Location
- Jerry's guest bedroom
- Posts
- 3,469
- +1
- 2
Yep the Terminal posts are 2 3/8" 17 ga. 7' is about $20. Did he mean 2 1/4' od or id?
-
11-21-2008, 08:15 PM #9
-
11-21-2008, 08:16 PM #10
I just removed my ss-ring in order to mount the extended ring. Did almost like this, only simpler. I placed the pump with the ring facing down, but not resting on the ring... insted I put some wood below the pump-housing to lift the ring free. I then heated the pump-housing with a heatgun. After 10 minuts the ring was free... Almost fell out! Now I worked really quick and installed the extended ring while the housing was still hot... It dropped right in place! No banging!!
Thread Information
Users Browsing this Thread
There are currently 1 users browsing this thread. (0 members and 1 guests)
Similar Threads
-
Tip of the day: Changing out the oil pressure jet
By Green Hulk in forum Sea Doo How To & FAQsReplies: 22Last Post: 06-21-2014, 02:15 PM -
Tip of the day: Removing/replacing stainless wear ring
By Green Hulk in forum 4-Tec PerformanceReplies: 43Last Post: 11-10-2009, 11:10 PM -
Stainless steel wear ring removal
By tchies in forum Sea Doo Open DiscussionReplies: 0Last Post: 01-20-2009, 09:30 PM -
Stainless Steel Wear Ring Perfect
By Red Devil in forum 4-Tec PerformanceReplies: 27Last Post: 06-28-2005, 07:07 PM -
stainless steel wear ring
By shortee in forum 4-Tec PerformanceReplies: 12Last Post: 06-18-2005, 09:36 PM
A lot of times its lack of maintenance. Having that engine aligned is...
Carbon seal feaild on a friend’s...