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Thread: Oil Tank Repair

  1. #21
    Rocky_Road's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kosh View Post
    Dissasembled the original one today (after confirming that this one has a leak as well) Better prepared this time with a clean set of undies and ear muffs! also a box of rags to catch the top half during its flight. The good thing is the process was repeatable, not sure of the physics of it all but it works. Warmed up the alloy again, pressurised to 15 psi (living on the edge) and one slight tap with the soft hammer and it was all over.

    The interesting thing with this non rattler is this one has a plastic oil baffle plate which is plastic welded in, obviousley an update. I will fit new O rings and swap them back over next oil change.
    Plastic baffle...very interesting!

    Did this come out of a 2004? If so...then maybe that explains why mine isn't 'rattling'.

    I plan to keep my eyes peeled for any water intrusion.


  2. #22
    Kosh's Avatar
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    Yes both out of 2004 models the plastic one was a month later in the build dates.
    The tank may have been replaced at the dealer as at some time as the engine has been sleeved (I beleive under warranty) at some time in its life. I know this because it was purchased in peices. My other 150 still has the rattle installed, I will sort this one out in the future- next oil change.
    It would be nice to get the whole picture on updates,improvements from the factory,maybe one day

  3. #23
    Jet Ski Tinker
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    Oil Tank Installed

    Well I had a little time to get some projects done over the Holliday break.
    This is what the tank kit looks like installed in the ski.
    I decided to put in a catch can instead of the hose going back to the intake vent.
    I donít want any oil vapors going onto the sensors.
    Need to work out a vent system out the back to get air flow through the hull.
    Hope this helps some of you in deciding if you want to give it a try!

    Dosuser
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  4. #24
    Rocky_Road's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by dosuser View Post
    Well I had a little time to get some projects done over the Holliday break.
    This is what the tank kit looks like installed in the ski.
    I decided to put in a catch can instead of the hose going back to the intake vent.
    I donít want any oil vapors going onto the sensors.
    Need to work out a vent system out the back to get air flow through the hull.
    Hope this helps some of you in deciding if you want to give it a try!

    Dosuser
    Nice work, dosuser! Your pictures answered the roll over tank location question....

    How much time did this take (minus the catch can...I won't go that far)? I will be next in line...just as soon as the Polaris Gods tell me that I am having a baffle issue.

    Keep us posted as to any changes in how you keep tabs on your oil level, and if there are any changes to the oil change procedure.

  5. #25
    Jet Ski Tinker
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    Smile Oil Tank Installed and working

    Rocky,
    You could do this in about 2 to 3 hours. I did this in a afternoon and not working hard. This is not hard if everything comes apart (ie) hoseís .
    The oil change procedure is the same as always. You should be able to run oil level at a higher point. The rollover tank acts like an added oil over flow and will drain back to the oil sump. No more oil for the intercooler and sensors. This probably will pay for its self with not have to replace sensors that get oil on them and the red eye light coming on. This is hard to stop with old design. This is well worth the money! Any water in the oil or foaming from old tank design is not good and shortens the life of the engine! This will not happen with the new design. I would not wait to do the change.
    Dosuser.

  6. #26
    Jet Ski Tinker
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    Wink This Is the Place

    Here you go!
    This is the place to get the Kit.
    http://eblwatercraft.com
    Talk to Bart, He is a great guy and really knows his stuff on the weber engines
    He is an authorized dealer for weber. The kit should cost about $270.00 Price my very a little based on current market cost.
    Well wreath the money!!

    Dosuser

  7. #27
    Rocky_Road's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by dosuser View Post
    Here you go!
    This is the place to get the Kit.
    http://eblwatercraft.com
    Talk to Bart, He is a great guy and really knows his stuff on the weber engines
    He is an authorized dealer for weber. The kit should cost about $270.00 Price my very a little based on current market cost.
    Well wreath the money!!

    Dosuser
    Good work...and thanks, Dosuser!

    Happy New Year...to all!

  8. #28
    Sawtooth763
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    Oil Tank repair

    Dausser,

    Can you recommend how to test the Oil Tank.

  9. #29
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    Mark,

    The way I have tested these in the past is to hook up a gauge and pressurize the unit. around 15 psi (100kpa) will be enough. If you see any fall in pressure you have a problem especially if it is leaking internally. use soapy water to identify external leaks. (it will blow bubbles)

    Hook up a low pressure gauge to the section of the reservoir you have not pressurized if there is any leakage it will start to give a reading. This test helps eliminate any leaks in your hose connections etc.

    You don't need anything special you can use a bike pump for the air, the only buggering around will be the hose and plugs to seal all the inlets outlets.

    Only estimating but the reservoir possibly sees up to 30psi or more water pressure from the jet pump, still don't put yourself in the line of fire in case it separates while under pressure.

    If this does leak it will give a creamy build up in the top of the reservoir not in the inlet tract.
    Water can have made its way into the oil via the hole in the cyclone to sump return line.
    It will take up to three oil changes to remove all the contaminated oil and this is actually getting it up to operating temperature on the water. Leave the cap of the reservoir to help evaporate the moisture when parked in the shed, as the engine is sealed to atmosphere once it is turned off.

    Oil in the inlet can come from an over full oil reservoir, excessive engine blow by (last two comments assume you have the hose still connected to the turbo inlet) which I would recommend you modify/remove or a leaking turbo compressor. If oil is not present in the turbo or charge air cooler you tract don't have much to worry about.

    Of course all this is my opinion. Please read all the disclosure statements to ensure this advice is suitable for you

  10. #30
    Sawtooth763
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    Oil Tank repair blues

    Kosh,

    Thanks for the info, have a few questions, I was with you up to the point when you started talking about cyclone? I have NO IDEA what you mean.

    If this does leak it will give a creamy build up in the top of the reservoir not in the inlet tract.
    (This is exactly what I'm seeing in the top of the reservoir when the unit is installed on the engine and after a short run.)

    Water can have made its way into the oil via the hole in the cyclone to sump return line.
    (Can you explain, or maybe send a pic or two)

    Oil in the inlet can come from an over full oil reservoir, excessive engine blow by (last two comments assume you have the hose still connected to the turbo inlet) which I would recommend you modify/remove or a leaking turbo compressor. If oil is not present in the turbo or charge air cooler you tract don't have much to worry about.
    (The oil was pretty high, almost to the top mark on the stick so maybe this is part of my problems, but what do you mean by "modify/remove, "hose connected to the turbo"? And oil present in the turbo, or charge air cooler?)

    Maybe if I explained the problem or problems I'm having with my ski you can point me in the right direction.
    It runs great up to ~2400rpm, once over 2400 then the red eye & engine temp indicator come on, and it goes into limp mode. I was thinking it may have a blown head gasket because before I had it, my brother-in-law owned it, his son ran it with a engine coolant leak, brought it to a shop and supposly they "said" they put a new head gasket on it. I'm assuming they checked the head and it was OK or serviced it. I am seeing a creamy oily mixture in the oil tank, so was thinking maybe something happened to the head gasket and was getting ready to fix this. The motor is out of the ski on a stand so I have easy access to everything now. I do have a rattle in the oil tank and after reading posts and talking to Brad down in Flordia, it seams like this may be the root of all my problems. I did a pressure test on the water side of the tank could'nt hear any air comming out from inside the cap but I'm not sure my test set-up was very good and will work on fine tuning the test this week with gauges on the pressured side as well as the non-pressured side. I would just like to pin-point the casue before tearing into the engine because this thing is starting to get the best of me. I really don't have much experience with this engine/ski but do mess around in the garage, last week had to change the intake manifold on my 02 explorer, and am a mechanical engineer by trade, only from 9-5 though so I hear what your saying, just need to figure out what you mean a little bit, if you know what I mean.

    Any help, (or pictures ) would be greatly appreciated.

    Thanks again,

    Mark

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