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  1. #21
    Moderator OsideBill's Avatar
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    There is a torque spec on the bolts


  2. #22
    silvercrxsir's Avatar
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    Ya i almost always torque everything down as specified in the manual but that day when I had the carbs off my torque wrench was at work,but you know as well as I do that 95% of the people wrench everything down too tight and call it good,heck most people don't even own a good quality torque wrench

  3. #23
    Moderator OsideBill's Avatar
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    The funny thing about torque is most people think it is how tight you have to make it, they always tend to give it a little extra thinking it is better. when in reality it is generaly a maximum rating, so you dont strip stuff out.

    The problem with these intakes, is the soft aluminum reed cover plate under it. They tend to bend and warp, I have had issues with these in the past. The other problem I have seen time and again when people send their carbs to me with linkage sticking issues is the shaft has been hit on one end or the other and is not centered to the butterfly. this causes it to rub the throat of the carb and when things heat up a bit they stick. a slight tap woth a brass hammer to center the shaft and they are off and running.

  4. #24
    silvercrxsir's Avatar
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    You can't have a cheap torque wrench either,I have a digital snap-on I use for work so it mainly stays there,and I needed one on a weekend and decided to cheap out and buy one from harbor freight(big mistake)even though I tried it out on a few other things first and felt confident it would work I ended up stripping a headbolt due to it being a piece of crap

  5. #25
    Moderator OsideBill's Avatar
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    Torque wrenches should be calibrated every so often, I have mine done through work every year. I do love my Digital Snap-on torque wrench, I have a small 1/4 drive Snap-on click type as well. it comes in real handy on these skis, especially around the carbs and reed plate.

  6. #26
    Any chance someone could post some reference photos?

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