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  1. #11

    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Location
    Hillsborough, North Carolina
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    141
    Hey fellow tinkerers!

    I'm hesitant to say it is bent Bill, #2 & #3 turns w/no resistance w/out the seals, then gets harder after 1st seal on top is inserted into place, then with the 2nd seal it just feels too sticky...I feel like #3 got worse after I removed and worked on it.... I'm sure #2 is better than it was but now I want to replace the seals & see if theres a change.... I just orderd em, I'll keep u posted... I'll also try swapping the shafts as well with the #1 carb.... Its not sticking at all, I hate to mess with it if its working, but now I gotta satisfy my curiosity.....

    Wish me luck!
    Ray

  2. #12

    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Location
    Hillsborough, North Carolina
    Posts
    141

    Wink is it the rubber shaft seals?... NOPE!

    Hey fellas;

    Its not the rubber seals! I just confirmed it... Had to ream out the carbs with a make shift tool... sandpaper wrapped around long 3/16" drill bit.... and used drill on it. Sanding the shaft didn't seem to be getting anywhere. Working good now!

    Just thought I'd let yall know...LOL
    Ray

  3. #13
    If your not doing something, its hard to screw up. stlouisramsfan's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Location
    Pontoon Beach Illinois
    Posts
    1,116
    Thanks for the update!

  4. #14
    dre0256's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Location
    East New Market, Md
    Posts
    22
    I want to see if you all think that this is my problem, since what am reading resembles it. Ok so I have a 2000 Gp1200R and after it gets warm the throttle sticks after its warms up and I shut the ski off. When I go to re-start the throttle is still stuck (if its still warm) and if I pull on the throttle it will start at a higher RPM (where ever the throttle might be stuck at) with some choke assistance but after it takes off at a high speed it will un stick and work properly again, until I shut it off again. So is my problem whats stated above? and if so then am looking at the same fix? Any help greatly appreciated.
    Thanks
    Dre

  5. #15
    dre0256's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Location
    East New Market, Md
    Posts
    22
    Can I please get some feedback on this! I did exactly as the thread says to do, but like Mrtinker I cleaned out the shaft and bushings. With the seals in and I re-heat with heat gun its still sticking, but with the seals out and re-heat no problem at all. Shaft is not bent, I've checked and rechecked. Also would it be ok to leave seals out or not a good idea? Any other suggestions greatly appreciated


  6. #16

    Join Date
    Apr 2010
    Location
    daytona fl
    Posts
    35
    sleeper_dave u ROck finally fixed my ski from a one page post,,this post is awsome, u should rite books. thanks, if your Ever in daytona, ill buy the beer!! SEE YA>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>

  7. #17
    dre0256's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Location
    East New Market, Md
    Posts
    22
    Ok I got my sticky problem all solve and while I was at it I did the "GPR\XLT Carb Upgrade\ Accelerator pump removal" I just got back from trying it out and wow its sweet. I gained 3 more MPH. I ran half a tank through the ski and not a single sticking problem. Thanks alot for all the great info. Keep it up guys. Again thanks Dave & Ocean side Bill.

  8. #18
    Hi Bill,
    Thanks to you and everyone for all of the effort and great information.
    1999 XL1200Ltd. Owned since new. Less than 120 hours. Carb rebuild less than 1 year ago. Runs perfectly. Throttles stuck last time out to the lake. Machine purchased and ridden until last 5 yrs. in FL then to moved to AZ. From hot to hotter. Never had a problem. New throttle cable. Linkages fine. Removed carbs, linkages, butterflies and shafts. Upper shaft bores in carb have black plastic (Delrin?) bushings and shaft rides on bore in aluminum carb body. Lower shaft bore has brass bushing and black plastic bushing as well as carb body bore. Have reamed all six bores out extensively with 320-400 grit on drill bit. Sanded and polished shafts removing all wear marks. Checked for round/straight on surface plate. All OK. Shafts move MUCH more freely and smoothly. However when testing with heat gun can still get shafts to bind. It seems as though I am applying enough heat that the plastic bushings are almost melting or beginning to flow. If this is the case it does not seem that there is any amount of plastic stock removal that will prevent the binding. If I remove much more material with the current method I will be removing too much metal from the shaft bores. Am I using too much heat from the heat gun? It does not seem to be much hotter than the engine compartment can get while running normally on a 115 degree AZ summer day. Your thoughts would be greatly appreciated.

  9. #19
    Moderator OsideBill's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Location
    United States
    Posts
    11,874
    +1
    38
    The shft is not centered to the butterfly, tap on either end of the shaft to get it to move and see if it free's up any.

  10. #20
    silvercrxsir's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2011
    Location
    ocala,fl
    Posts
    334
    +1
    8
    I just encounterer this prob last weekend after the ski was warm and made and tracked down a source of the problem.make sure you aren't overtightening the long bolts that hold the carb assembly to the engine.once I started to break the bolts loose to pull my carbs i noticed the throttle snapped shut and worked perfectly.apparently when the bolts are too tight when everything warms up and starts expanding it forces the carbs to expand in a way that causes them to bind

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