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  1. #11
    mjh3ides's Avatar
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    Thanks for the input guys. I remember reading some time back about detonation, but after going back and doing a bit more research I'll definately be going with the FF. For safety reasons I'll also be replacing the OEM steering nozzle. I've considered the SHO nozzle, but don't want the loss in acceleration, so I'm on the fence between the R&D and Pro-tec +12. I'm leaning more towards the Pro-tec since they are reported to have a better fit without having to pound them into shape like the R&D's.


  2. #12
    mjh3ides's Avatar
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    hi
    can i have a pict of that tube and where is gone .
    thanks
    http://greenhulk.net/forums/attachme...1&d=1216343246

    RIVA GP1300R Free Flow Exhaust Kit

    It's in the rear section of the ski under the battery box. Click the link above for a pic of one installed.

  3. #13
    mjh3ides's Avatar
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    We got the motor out today and started installing a few things. First was the 3 deg key and new flywheel. The FW is much lighter than the stocker and was balanced by Fercho. I also threw in some pics of the VF3's which require longer bolts than the stock reeds. We'll be removing the stock jugs on Fri so I'll post more pics then. While we have it pulled apart, I'm considering sending the exhaust manifold to Lowell for porting depending on his availability. I haven't seen the GPR since May, and after riding the SHO for the last month it looked tiny. I kept cathing myself staring at it and looking forward to the finished product.
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  4. #14
    Make sure and clean the corrosion off the intake manifold/balance bar. I see a lot of saltwater corrosion on it and that can cause an air leak and lean out and melt a piston, saw it happen earlier this year here locally.
    You can take a 12 inch flat body sanding board and some 320-400 wet sandpaper and do it yourself easily..
    Do NOT use the popular little angle grinder that uses the little 3M abrasive cookies to clean, it will leave gouges that will leak air also!
    Ross

  5. #15
    Moderator OsideBill's Avatar
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    God I love the site of parts everywhere I know Lowell is temporarily idle while he relocates.

  6. #16
    mjh3ides's Avatar
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    Make sure and clean the corrosion off the intake manifold/balance bar. I see a lot of saltwater corrosion on it and that can cause an air leak and lean out and melt a piston, saw it happen earlier this year here locally.
    You can take a 12 inch flat body sanding board and some 320-400 wet sandpaper and do it yourself easily..
    Do NOT use the popular little angle grinder that uses the little 3M abrasive cookies to clean, it will leave gouges that will leak air also!
    RossToday 10:32 PM
    We only had the reeds on to make sure the length of the bolts was sufficient. He used a rectangular carbide bar to scrape off the corrosion afterwards, and it went through it like a hot knife through butter.

  7. #17
    WATER WOODY's Avatar
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    mjh,make sure you pressure test before you install the motor,just to make sure.

  8. #18
    mjh3ides's Avatar
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    WATER WOODY mjh,make sure you pressure test before you install the motor,just to make sure.
    Will do...thanks guys

  9. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by mjh3ides View Post
    Thanks for the input guys. I remember reading some time back about detonation, but after going back and doing a bit more research I'll definately be going with the FF. For safety reasons I'll also be replacing the OEM steering nozzle. I've considered the SHO nozzle, but don't want the loss in acceleration, so I'm on the fence between the R&D and Pro-tec +12. I'm leaning more towards the Pro-tec since they are reported to have a better fit without having to pound them into shape like the R&D's.

    i put an r&d on my project ski the other day and it went straight on...no problems at all.

  10. #20
    mjh3ides's Avatar
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    Made good progress today. After opening the case to have it ported, we found that one of the crank bearings wasn't turning as smoothly as it should, so it was off to Riva to pick up a new T&W crank. For good measure, the seals and wrist pin bearings were also replaced. We used Yamabond to seal the case after the new crank was in. We weren't able to use the lightweight RAD flywheel with the EFI, so the it was back to the OEM. Then came the coolest parts...cylinders and 87mm pistons from Lowell. I also got the Lowell machined PV's that will work with the larger pistons. I was amazed at how he is able to machine a curved part and get clearances that perfect. Lowell was a bit hesitant to fit PV's to a ported BB, so time will tell with the reliability. Next, the VF3's and throttle bodies were installed. I forgot to bring the bolts for the head, so that will get done tomorrow. The composite guy is coming tonight to do the tunnel reinforcement, and motor should go in tomorrow.
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