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Thread: Serious IC cooling ?
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07-13-2006, 08:19 PM #1
Serious IC cooling ?
For those in the know:
IF we used a seperate source for cooling the external IC`s, can the diameter of coolant hose be reduced to 5/8?, 1/2?
I believe the water pressure would have to be reduced just like the RED or Yellow water reducing disc`s found between the pumps and pump supports.
There is much testing and mock-up to be done to acheive the right flow and pressure to maintain optimum efficiency as if the IC were still installed inline with the exhaust cooling.
I`m planning on re-routing the IC cooling with high quality product and a water pressure gauge and some kind of good strainer to visually inspect operation of IC cooling, along with the cooling water exiting a seperate outlet. ie: 1/2" pisser 45 degrees, or the factory port for the output of the factory installed bilge pumps which are 3/4 OD. and 1/2 ID..
several other possibilities come to mind.
make no mistake, this will be a proffesionally fabricated mod to the IC cooling, just looking for knowledge of flow and pressures and what you guys think if the operating diameters are smaller and how will it effect efficiency!...
You have to control the pressure as not to rupture the IC core, hence there needs to be a way to adjust pressure, variably or constantly...PR...
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07-13-2006, 08:40 PM #2
so we need to know what optimal water pressure is for optimal cooling of the intercooler.
put an inline valve in the inlet hose for the mock-up so you can adjust the water pressure on the fly.
more i think about it, you can do whatever you want to the water lines after the intercooler bc there's no back pressure on water lines in my opinion. water goes thru the jacketed header and j-pipe, then is squeeze through 3 holes in the bottom of the j-pipe, and all excess water goes out Ts and is dumped out ports in the pump support.
is that enough to say the water has no back pressure on it thru the intercooler, it's jsut free flowing and is controlled directly by the reducer washer?
logically, you could think you want to supply the IC with as much water exchange as possible just leaving a safe enough margin away from the core's bursting point.
personally, i'm less concerned with the water pressure for the IC bc you can always turn that down.... if u use the water supply from the pump, i'd be worried that your secondary water supply for the exhaust doesn't supply enough pressure and volume for the exhaust components.
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07-13-2006, 09:14 PM #3
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Originally Posted by Shibby1485
The idea about putting a regulator after the intercooler is a good idea. That way the IC will be full of water and able to pick up the max ammount of heat transfer.
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07-13-2006, 09:14 PM #4
Currently the set up is 3/4 ID pump outlet thru 6-8mm (?) reducer then back to 3/4 ID via hose to either IC or Exhaust without IC.
What does the water reducer exactly do? Does it alter the pressure? does it alter the flow.
Both are variable from engine RPM`s, lower R`s less heat, less cooling, More R`s higher heat more coolong flow and pressure.
I don`t think that the port on the venturi is capable of bursting the Riva Vortech or the Rotax IC units bc they are made of good quality.
Let`s say at the 3/4 hose size, you have X amount of flow and pressure.
and now you reduce the hose size to 5/8 or 1/2, you would still have flow and pressure but not the same volume of water circulating thru the IC core.
Reducing the hose size could in fact act as a "water reducer" maybe yeilding in the same flow/pressure characteristics.
There has to be a point where no matter how large the hose size, the IC core is a restriction in itself...
also take into consideration any 90 degree bends, transitions thru fittings that may impede flow speed/efficiency.
Would these effects be minimal compared to conventional IC hook-up?
thru the reducer discs...
a simple test might be to attach a thermometer against the IC case (temporarily) and note temp change if any, conditions must be constant or the results will be skewed...PR...
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07-13-2006, 09:16 PM #5
Originally Posted by Nitro4Life
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07-13-2006, 09:27 PM #6
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So far I've blown up half the hoses in the loop( so I bought gates hoses) and broke a perfect weld on the IC/ and several clamps. The surging is the real problem... In and out of the water.
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07-13-2006, 09:38 PM #7
Nitro4Life is right on.....One of the problems that faced go fast outboard motor boats years ago was related to too much water flowing through the engine block. Many guys removed the thermostats and re-routed water hoses to increase flow. The flow became excessive and the motors actually ran hotter than before. There is a critical point between too much water flow and not enough water flow. If restrictors are used they will have to be set up to give maximum cooling when it is most needed ...at top RPM.
Richard
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07-13-2006, 10:25 PM #8
You are so right Richard. See ,,,I`m always right. You ned the volume not pressure PR. Put a pisser after the intercooler to see if there is no waterflow. Thats what I have, Just nned to have parts! ARRRGGGGHHH,,,i have a 45 on the transom for this . It`ll shoot but thats cool. When its low,,I`m phuched.
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07-14-2006, 07:10 AM #9
I would be less worried about messing with the water flow to the intercooler andm ore worried about adjusting the water flow into the exhaust side IMO...i think you'll see more gains from being able to dry that out than you ever will playing with the intercooler water supply...
Ideally you'd find a way to isolate the water flow coming into the waterbox and exhaust and then modulate it with a jetworks valve to keep it all dried out on bottom (for holeshot) and then re-introduce the water up top for backpressure (important for top end)...IMO
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07-14-2006, 09:11 AM #10
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pale rider:
i just seperated my water line for water box and intercooler last week, now i have:
back to stock water supply to the exhust
and a 2nd. line coming from the pump to the i.c. with a valve after the i.c. to adjust water flow then to a t-hull out.
now if i.c. clogs does not affect exhust, still playing with flow rate but working good so far
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