1998 Polaris SLTH 700 no spark

[billharris29@gmail.com]

I have no spark on my 1998 Polaris SLTH 700. I was told it could be a variety of different problems, and am looking for any advice anyone has for me. I was told it could be the control box, the coil and the stator. I have a sheet on how to test certain diferent ignition systems, but am looking more at how to test the stator. I'd like to know where it's located in the engine bay, and how to go about seeing if that's my problem. Thanks!

[Bone1050]

look in the tech section for domestic electrical and charge that battery

there is a stator/cdi combo for sale if its bad

[K447]

Welcome to the Hulk!

Download the 1992-1998 Service Manual.

[ph2ocraft]

Hi Bill, WELCOME to the Green Hulk Forums!!
Make absolutely sure the battery is fully charged and you have better than 10.6 volts at the battery while cranking the engine. Check the voltage source with a meter not the MFD.
I personally use a jumperpack so that I know there's plenty of power on hand.
Second on my list would be checking the stator and if it's bad replace the stator/CDI and coil pack (updated kit). Post 3 here.
http://www.greenhulk.net/forums/showthread.php?t=15437

Post 9 here http://www.greenhulk.net/forums/showthread.php?t=15437 gives you the kit number for your ride.

[K447]

... I personally use a jumperpack so that I know there's plenty of power on hand...

To clarify, you mean using an auxilary battery pack, NOT an entire automobile, or an AC powered battery charger.

Which pack do you use, or like?

[billharris29@gmail.com]

I'm not sure how to test the stator. I've opened the black control box with all the wires inside to get numbers on the CDI and Ignition Coil, but don't know anything about the stator. From the looking around I've done it sounds like that's the most likely problem. My battery is fully charged, and I'm getting 12V while cranking. I'm assuming that the stator is inside the front of the engine by the flywheel and starter. Is that right? How do I test it to see if that's blown?

[K447]

I'm not sure how to test the stator.
I've opened the black control box with all the wires inside to get numbers on the CDI and Ignition Coil, but don't know anything about the stator.
...I'm assuming that the stator is inside the front of the engine by the flywheel and starter. Is that right?
How do I test it to see if that's blown?

The 1992-1998 Service Manual covers the stator coil testing procedure.

Disconnect the wires in the electrical box for the wire bundle that runs forward to the front of the engine, where the stator lives inside/under the flywheel.

From the ends of the wires inside the electrical box, you can use an ohm-meter to check the stator coils for the expected resistance values. Record each resistance value, and test each pair twice, to be sure you are getting a consistent reading.

As mentioned earlier in this thread, the trigger coils need to be tested using a 9 volt battery as a temporary power source for the Hall Effect sensors (see post #3).

[billharris29@gmail.com]

That's very helpful, thank you. I've downloaded the manual, but haven't found any info on what the readings should be. I'm looking through it, but it's 577 pages long. What are the resistance readings I should be looking for? Also, what are the colors of the wires I'm testing, and what are the pairs I'm testing?
Thanks

[ph2ocraft]

That's very helpful, thank you. I've downloaded the manual, but haven't found any info on what the readings should be. I'm looking through it, but it's 577 pages long. What are the resistance readings I should be looking for? Also, what are the colors of the wires I'm testing, and what are the pairs I'm testing?
Thanks

I gave you the link in post 4
Check the tech section under Domestic Electrical and you'll find everything you need.

[ph2ocraft]

To clarify, you mean using an auxilary battery pack, NOT an entire automobile, or an AC powered battery charger.

Which pack do you use, or like?

Correct. A jumperpack just substitutes for a battery and if used properly will not create any voltage spikes or adverse damage to the MFD.

I personally use an ALLSTART MARINA version.

It has an ON/OFF switch. You can take your time and correctly attach the battery ends to the battery, engine, solenoid, wherever and not worry about a short or bad connection during the attachment of the cables.
Once they are installed and you're happy with the connection, simply throw on the switch and you have a perfect solid connection.

Meter. With a meter there is NO question as to wether your battery pack is fully charged and capable of firing your boat ignition system.

Light. It has come in handy more times than I can count, it's dark in the hull at night or early morning when I like to work on my toys.

Long Cables. I like to rest the battery in the foot well and just reach the cables over the hull and to the connectors. Nothing worse than the jumper box getting in the way when I have the electrical box apart while performing tests.


It has a 12 volt outlet.
It's chargeable by simply plugging it into a wall with an extension cord, no special charging ports or adapters to lose.
300 watt inverter, I've never needed it but......
It even comes in a nice carry pouch.