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  1. #1

    Help wiring in second battery!!!

    How do I wire this
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    Into this
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    Its obvious to me that I add a second battery and directly connect the negative terminals. Then run the positive from one battery to terminal labeld BAT1 and the second batterys positive to terminal labeled BAT2.

    My concern is what to do with the three remaining small wires which I assume go to the stator. I can connect them up to one side or the other and make sure the switch is in that position to run the boat and while I am parked with the tunes cranked make sure I run from the other battery but this does not achive the result I want. I want to be able to run from either.

    Do I simply split each of the two small red wires running to the positive and run one to each of the respective BAT1 and BAT2 terminals on the new switch. This would effectively join both positive terminals of the battery together when the switch is in BOTH mode and still maintain a connection in either 1 or 2 position.
    The third "black with red stripe" and other side of the positive wire would go to the feeder terminal.

    Is this correct?

    Also what are the two small terminals labeled field for on the new switch.

  2. #2

    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Melbourne AR.
    Refer to the '' BATERY ISOLATOR '' thread on page 3, there is a little bit of info there about a second battery install. Good Luck

  3. #3
    AKA: Larry lafjax's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Jacksonville, Fl
    Here's a little diagram that might be helpful:
    Looks like the feeder wire goes to ground.
    Not sure about the 'field' terminals??
    Here's some more:
    Maybe the field terms have to do with charging and cut the charging on or off when/if battery is full. One diagram refers to the 'sense' terminals.
    Last edited by lafjax; 06-03-2008 at 03:51 PM.

  4. #4
    spd5535's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    You're essentially trying to make a battery isolator system without using a battery isolator. Be careful with splicing those small wires. They go into a wiring harness that runs your accessories on the boat. Your SeaDoo charging system (stator) runs through that wiring harness and does not act like a traditional alternator. This is the reason I went with a battery isolator system becuase I did not want to fry my voltage regulator or any of my electrical system. Whatever you decide on be careful so that you don't damage anything......Good luck.
    Last edited by spd5535; 06-04-2008 at 07:23 AM.

  5. #5
    I read the links provided jafjax about 5 times each and now my head kinda hurts
    Wikipedia definition of battery isolator
    A battery isolator is a one-way electrical valve, allowing DC current to flow in one direction, but not flow in reverse. They are commonly used on vehicles where multiple batteries or battery banks are used, including recreational vehicles, boats, utility vehicles, airplanes, and large trucks. The primary purpose for their use is to insure that a failure of a single battery or battery bank, will not wipe out an entire battery network. These are also used in vehicles with large car stereos which require multiple batteries.
    As far as I can tell, in lay terms, an isolator simply automatically disconnects one of the batteries when it is discharged enough so it wont suck the life from your remaining charged battery.
    Not sure how that would serve to protect the regulator cause if batteries are connected in parallel you are still only seeing 12 volts just more capacity and as such it would just take longer to charge if my switch ended up in the both position to charge the batteries.

    For you guys running an isolator... Does it allow you to continue to use the stock single pole switch? If so I may go that route as it sounds like it would be easier to connect.

  6. #6
    spd5535's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    No, mine runs a 4 pole switch. Here's a thread I wrote up after I installed my system. For me at least it was worth the money to buy the system and install it. That way there's no worries and I know it charges both batteries from either the stator or the house charger.

    Good luck.
    Last edited by spd5535; 06-03-2008 at 09:45 PM.

  7. #7
    4 pole switch???
    Now I am really confused. Mine only has three poles so I wonder what the purpose of the fourth is. Did your isolator / switch setup come with instructions. If so can you post a copy?

    How much did that system cost? I have already spent 60 bucks for my switch and I can get a 90 amp battery isolator for 50 bucks or a 120 for 100 bucks.
    I think I may need an electrician.....

  8. #8
    spd5535's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Here's the write-up and where i purchased it from:

    Here's the instruction manual:

    If you're somewhat comfortable with wiring things it's really not that difficult; it looks worse than it is. I basically read the instructions and followed the diagram on the right-side of the last page. The only difference was that I have two engines in my boat so I had a couple of extra wires. This system keeps the batteries seperate for for your existing load and whatever you hook up to the second battery. When charging, the system automatically sences when one battery is full and switches the charge over to the second. The fourth pole is optional if you want to add a fuse panel, which I personally did for some new accessories I added to my boat. Otherwise, if it's just for an amp. and your stereo the fuse panel is not needed. Bare in mind that this is a system, I would not mix and match other battery switches in with this system. The two Blue Sea components are designed to be used with eachother. I did a lot of research before I purchased it. Everything I read and was told led me to this system, specifically because it's going to be used in a marine environment.

    Also, I wanted a common busbar to hook-up all of my grounds to so I went with this:

    So in a nutshell this is what I spent:

    Optima D31M battery - $200
    Blue Sea Systems - Add A Battery #7650 (Comes with wew battery switch and automatic charging relay) - $93
    Blue Sea Systems - Busbar #2106 - $31
    Blue Sea Systems - Fuse Block #5025 - $34
    Lots-o-wire - $dunno

    Realistically if all you're doing is adding a second battery for your tunes, all you would need is the "Add A Battery" system for $93.

    Good luck......
    Last edited by spd5535; 06-04-2008 at 11:02 AM.

  9. #9
    I figured things out today. I simply kept the original connections where they were from the old switch then added positive from my second battery to the third post.

    I can start from, and charge either battery from their respective switch positions while isolating the other battery from the charge/load. Only drawback is that bile pump only runs on one battery unless switch is in "both" position. OH WELL!!! It was the only wire on the battery side of the switch so I had to choose one or ther other.

    If one of my batteries gets discharged I simply need to switch to the other one. After starting the boat from the reserve battery I can switch back to the discharged battery for charging while the engine is running because the switch is a "make before break" type of connection so there will be no sudden jolts.

    The key to this setup is to ensure you are never running any load while in the both position, unless the engine is running, or you risk discharging both batteries and ending up screwed.

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    Edit: I just looked at the picture. Please appreciate I need to tidy things up some!!!
    Last edited by cfnnslsq; 06-04-2008 at 04:21 PM.

  10. #10
    spd5535's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Glad to see you got it to work......

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