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  1. #1

    Join Date
    May 2008

    Recomend machine shop and parts supplier

    Cylinder #1 on my 96 SLTX 1050 burned up (pictures attached); I've been told because of running too lean. I removed the cylinder and piston and I have no idea where to find someone that can clean up the walls and get the right size piston. The wall has a couple of decent groves, so probably more than a honing will remove. I'm trying to keep the ski stock, so not looking for high performance parts and I'm trying to keep the budget for the project down.

    I have only owned the ski for 6 months and have spend most of my time working on it instead of riding it.... I'm new to the jetski mechanic scene, so please take it easy on me

    Many thanks,
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  2. #2
    800AMSOIL4U's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Morgan Hill, CA
    Check with Randy at or Jay at

    Randy will be back in the shop on the 4th of June
    Last edited by 800AMSOIL4U; 05-29-2008 at 01:29 PM.

  3. #3
    ph2ocraft's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Campbell, Ca.
    Cliff, check for rod play in that engine it may be in need of a crank.

  4. #4

    Join Date
    May 2008
    Any advice on what is normal rod play? This is the 1st cylinder I've removed from a jetski so I'm not sure what is normal.... I can wiggle it left-to-right a bit, but it seems to be fairly stable the other direction (around the crank).

    I'm also wondering if there is any tips for removing any old metal that fell into the block without having to tear apart the rest of the motor. I'm trying to keep it to just removing this one cylinder. I purchased a used cylinder, head and piston on e-bay today ($150) because a bike/jetski shop in my area (Double R racing) said the groves in the cylinder are too deep. Ugh, starting to wonder if I should have spend the $1K and bought a rebuilt motor from SBT.

  5. #5
    TimAtkinson's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Hillsboro Ohio
    Pm Sent
    Last edited by TimAtkinson; 05-29-2008 at 04:23 PM.

  6. #6
    Matrix 200 suparoo's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Nelson, New Zealand
    The best way I've found to get the metal of the bottom of the motor is to pour diesel into the crank housing and turn in over by hand, then get a wet and dry vacum (not the one from the house though as it stinks for ages, Ive got one in the workshop for cleaning the lathe that I use) and put a small tube on the end of it and vacum the diesel and metal out probably need to do this a few times. Make sure you don't use petrol our the vacum will turn into a bomb.

  7. #7

    Join Date
    May 2008
    Thanks, I'll give that a try. I keep my shop vac in the shed, so should be ok with the diesel smell. Now I just need to jerry-rig a way to get a small pipe on the end (reduce from a 2 inch tube to a 1/2 inch or so).
    Last edited by cmcbride; 06-02-2008 at 11:49 AM.

  8. #8
    2&4strokepolaristech's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    i can see from here you need a new sleeve or good used boreable cylinder. I might have one. what casting number do you have? also as mentioned what kind of shape is thha crank in? are you missing any part of a ring? did you have 2 snap rings on that piston? did you have a full set of needle bearings on the top end bearing? you might have lost a thrust washer. hard to tell. like mentioned you better check out that bottom end. if I have a good used cylinder and you buy the kit from me and have me bore it I will give you the cylinder for free.

    Last edited by 2&4strokepolaristech; 05-30-2008 at 09:04 PM.

  9. #9
    Similar situation for me...I live in the boonies-

    SBT's cylinder exchange solved the problem for me. Revceived prompt delivery.

  10. #10

    Join Date
    May 2008
    2/3 of the top ring are missing; I'm hoping that's what caused all of the damage. The lower ring is completely intact and the wrist pin bearing (needle bearings at piston/rod connection) is in great shape. I don't detect any play where the rod attaches to the crank, so I'm hoping I'm lucky and didn't kill the lower end. I'll keep looking in the crank area and try to determine if its OK without pulling everything else apart. I looked into the SBT exchange program but I couldn't do just one cylinder -- $610 for all three. I found a used piston/cylinder/head combo on e-bay for $150.

    Thanks for the help and advice!

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