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05-28-2008, 06:43 PM #1
Bolt stuck in carb. Any suggestions??
So i went to remove my carbs to give em a good cleaning. This is the first time since i bought this ski that i've pulled them. (4th owner) PTO carb came off fine, but the other carb (fwd one, can't remember the name) had drama. The lower bolt came out fine, but the upper bolt is siezed up inside of where it passes through the body of the carb. I realized this when i was trying to loosen it, and the whole carb spun. (already had the lower bolt off) To make matters worse i stripped the alen hole out badly. To the point that even if i was able to loosen up what ever is holing it in there with PB blaster etc, i wouldn't be able to spin the bolt anymore.
Long story short, i cleaned the one carb that came off, and cleaned what i could with the stuck one. Then tightened the one good bolt and it apparently seals enough for it to still run fine in the water. But now it's drivign me nuts cause i want to take them both off and rebuild them. any suggestions??
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05-28-2008, 06:49 PM #2
- Join Date
- Apr 2008
- Location
- Lexington, KY
- Posts
- 256
Just out of curiosity, what do you use for a gasket when you take them off and on.
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05-28-2008, 07:57 PM #3
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05-29-2008, 08:21 PM #4
Can you get a pic of the frozen bolt...seeing it may spark some ideas on how to remove it.
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05-29-2008, 08:43 PM #5
- Join Date
- Feb 2006
- Location
- Warner Robins, GA Home of the 2007 All-Star Little League World Champions!
- Posts
- 4,361
- +1
- 1
My first post disappeared.
Remove the rear carb. Then remove the rotary valve cover. Use your finger and push against the RV through the rear intake hole when removing, as it will stick to the cover and you may not get it back on and aligned correctly.
Now remove the bottom carb bolt. Then spin off the top bolt and carb together. Turn thread-side up. Spray PB Blaster beside the threads, and dig out excessive corrosion with a paperclip. Try to get PB all the way through the carb, until it drips out through the lockwasher. Then Vise-Grip the bolt head, trying to work it both ways until loose enough to tap out.
Back in 96 SD had not learned that saltwater/freshwater gets between the lockwasher and oxidizes the inner carb metal and fuses it to the SS bolt. In the future always grease the shafts of the bolts and this will never happen again.
Happy wrenching!Last edited by 96XPSS; 05-29-2008 at 08:51 PM.
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05-29-2008, 08:44 PM #6
- Join Date
- May 2008
- Location
- NEWARK DE.
- Posts
- 14
Skip The Trouble And Just Take Off The Rotary Valve Cover. Being Careful Not To Pull Off The Valve And Mess The Timing Up. Then The Whole Thing Wil Come Off In One Piece. Add Heat And Tap Out The Bolt. Corrosion Builds Up And Locks That Bolt In There The Only Way To Get It Out Is Heat.... Good Luck
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05-29-2008, 08:45 PM #7
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05-29-2008, 09:03 PM #8
- Join Date
- May 2008
- Location
- NEWARK DE.
- Posts
- 14
i never said burn it up i said heat a small torch only putting heat on where the bolt goes through... ive only done it about 300 times seriously. it works. just dont heat it IN the bilge that dosent call for a good day.
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05-29-2008, 09:30 PM #9
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05-29-2008, 09:40 PM #10
- Join Date
- May 2008
- Location
- NEWARK DE.
- Posts
- 14
Allright Im Not Arguing, All I Know Is Ive Done It Alot I Do It 4 A Living An The Only Way Ive Ever Had A Problem Was When Its Still In The Bilge But If You Guys Say Im Worng Sorry For Helpin Out.
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