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  1. #81
    I'm feeling naturally aspirated today pirate33's Avatar
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    Ok between two of teenagers prom on Friday night, that seems to be still going on by the number of kids still in the house and Mothers Day today my time to get the shaft was limited so....total time 15min cuz of those pesky triples that are in the way
    got the pump off, theres the old 'deg wedge




    Same ratchet used to take off the pump, with the TOOL on it...slipped a 3ft bar over it



    Moved the bottom pipe the goes over the battery and across the shaft to place a Vise grip with the chain thingy on it around the coupler and put another breaker bar on it for my beautiful assistant to hold with a few towels to protect the hull and top pipe


    Packing some heat and gave it right back to the shaft, and Bam or was it Pop (it was really not too exciting) she came off...took longer after screwing it out to pull it out


    Shaft was in great shape
    Gotta order tonight new coupler rubber do-dad, cuz pirate must have great hook-up, and found out the rubber seal on the shaft that goes into the back of the pump was starting to crack when we 1st pulled the pump off - if someone wants this National champion winning rubber do-dad for something, I guess like a really weird hockey puck just let me know


  2. #82
    I'm feeling naturally aspirated today pirate33's Avatar
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    Got the parts today...New stuff on the left, guess the rubber on the coupler was in bad shape. Man Al's wife rode Casper hard cuz it couldn't be me I ride nice


  3. #83
    SPEED KILLS, BUT YOU GET THERE QUICKER Keddano's Avatar
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    Pirate,Get a side view picture of the rubber spyder thingy,Does it have steel on it,mine is all rubber.

  4. #84
    Just another day trying to break all the rules! drbones's Avatar
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    Always check all fastners!

    Well weekend has come and gone Guys!

    My nightmare continues!

    I thought was completely ready to satisfy my trigger finger withdraw on Sat when was buttoning up all componets. I spent lot more than necessary on this repair! Mostly on specialty parts to remove and replace drive shaft and prop! Also spent $$ on nice NEW POLARIS SS PUMP EXTENSION! This is new to replace aluminum extension and cost 140$. But helps contol prop stability as well as reduce ionic charge turbulence caused by metal difference of aluminum to steel is eliminated! The there's the Wetwolf ATT that I have been wanting to try see if will increase speed on takeoff! I have 4 props I can use From 2 Nujet 7.0 & 808 And 2 Skat trak 17-23 and 19-26 (will have to re-pitch both) try at 14-22 and 16-23).

    Back to my nightmare!

    You know the old saying to many chefs spoil the dish!
    Well since this has been a 3 month ordeal! Several of my riding buddies have been helping me work on my MSX! Each had area specific and my time constrants as Dr make getting anything completed over the last 3 almost impossible! I had all new parts from driveshaft back to wetwolf ATT! I did not tear it down! But I did install it all back! SOO I GUESS IT'S MY FAULT!

    We had launched the ski Sat morn! I did complete check of all componets and outside connections! Fired it up on trailer (PURRED LIKE A KITTEN....New pump was almost silent!) dropped into water looked into hull see if carrier had any leak...NO! Fired it up....No Leaks! shut it off put seat back on....Climbed on fired up....Took off...Great acceleration.....2 min later....started to bog....Crap! Shut down....pulled seat off to find entire motor bathed in salt water....main water line to exhaust popped off and hosed entire motor and engine compartment half full of SALT WATER!
    My friend who disconnected internal stuff had loosened both ends of main water line from pump housing AND exhaust! Then he left hose connected to exhaust and slightly snugged down! So when I checked all lines visually it looked OK! But the second it was under pressure it popped right off! Luckly good ole polaris temp sensor cut motor RPM down so didn't toast motor! But it did not save the stupid plastic exhaust pipe connected to the main exhaust! SMELTED!!!

    After half hour of hosing engine with SALT-AWAY and then half hour of air hosing dry motor It fired up with slight hesitation and in-ability to idle due to loss of back pressure from SMELTED exhaust pipe!

    So now have ordered 95$ plastic pipe! (I WANT FACTORY PIPES!!)

    Here the pics of new pump and SMELTED PIPE!
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  5. #85
    Click avatar for tech links/info K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by drbones View Post
    ...Luckly good ole Polaris temp sensor cut motor RPM down so didn't toast motor! But it did not save the stupid plastic exhaust pipe connected to the main exhaust! SMELTED!!!

    ...It fired up with slight hesitation and in-ability to idle due to loss of back pressure from SMELTED exhaust pipe!...
    I am not sure if the exhaust being missing would prevent the engine from idling

    Unplug the TPS and see if it idles.

    The TPS might have gotten water inside, or the TPS connector may be wet inside. Do not use Nyogel on the TPS connector (per Polaris) - just dry it out gently, without a lot of heat.

    You might want to check compression, in case the engine ingested some water and damaged a piston.

    If you want to look at the piston tops without pulling the head, you can remove the injectors (no need to undo the fuel lines, just set the whole assembly to the side), and peer down through the injector hole, while shining a light into the spark plug hole.

  6. #86
    Just another day trying to break all the rules! drbones's Avatar
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    Thanks for info K!

    I will go over TPS check for loss of potential! I have spare new TPS set aside for chance of TPS failure! (Always have the spare when out! Just in case!)

    What is the normal ohm reading at idle?
    What is reading at WOT?

  7. #87
    Click avatar for tech links/info K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by drbones View Post
    Thanks for info K!

    I will go over TPS check for loss of potential! I have spare new TPS set aside for chance of TPS failure! (Always have the spare when out! Just in case!)

    What is the normal ohm reading at idle?
    What is reading at WOT?
    The old TPS were a simple resistive potentiometer. The newer TPS are electronic, and I think use a Hall Effect sensor.

    So no ohms testing with the new type.

    With either type, engine vibration can cause trouble, even if the TPS tested good on the work bench. Best test is to try a replacement - which you have

  8. #88
    Watcon's Avatar
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    This is why you need to re-align the driveshaft

    [New stuff on the left, guess the rubber on the coupler was in bad shape. Man Al's wife rode Casper hard cuz it couldn't be me I ride nice

    See
    how the wear on the damper is uneven? This is what puts a load on your bearing housing and pump bearings.. It also will make a nasty vibration..

  9. #89
    Just another day trying to break all the rules! drbones's Avatar
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    Randy's right!

    I have 190 hrs on my MSX! Mostly hard riding and jumping surf! Amazingly never realized carrier bearing lasted 2x it's expected life! I would say last 20+ hours started to feel vibration at low RPM! (More than likely worn rubber coupler was cause to vibration) When I pulled cover off to expose the carrier bearing it was covered with good amout of ejected bits of rubber and I could move the coupler 4-6 mm from side to side! I will tell you all about 20-30 of original hours I installed 12 vane pump and was told I needed alignment to correctly setup pump to insure its reliability from premature failure. I had 4 yr warrenty with this install so I say gracias to the now closed Barry (Bartow) motorsports. (Another victim of failing economy)

    I thank Randy for the nice new SS alignment tool! Which will help keep nice new pump and prop on MSX and to be completed Virage Tx project from premature destruction!

    It also works as a NICE JAVALIN!

  10. #90
    Click avatar for tech links/info K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by drbones View Post
    03 Rideplate - 5631257-329

    04 Rideplate - 5631598-329
    Well, it turns out that my J304 HIN date code (October 2003 build month) 2004 model MSX 140 was built just before the October 20, 2003 factory changeover to the 5631598-329 ride plate.

    So my 2004 MSX 140 has a 5631257, aka 2003 MSX ride plate

    Where is a good place to hunt for a genuine 2004 (5631598-329) MSX ride plate?

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