one GIO problem found

[spaulding]

ok, I know this has been discussed and talked about and been a hot topic for a long time. Well, last week I started experimenting based on some of my ideas and what others have said to try.

On my ski I have two lines coming from the breather going to a cathc can in the front of the motor and then to the intake. Also, I have the drain hose lifted out of the factory catch can. I have it lifted so level has to build so much before it can drain to the pan.

On my wifes ski I just have the hose lifted.

Today, while testing my ski both skis were ran very hard so I decided to check what was in the can.

On my ski when I pulled the hose several ounces of condensed blowby gas drained.

On my wife's ski without the additional breathers even more liquid drained. This was burning approx 3 bars of fuel and around 30 mile trip.


So, IMO the best fix for GIO is not to let the factory catch can drain directly to the pan. Either take a ty-rap to pull it up like I did or come up with your own way of preventing the drain back

BTW 72.2 today down 2 bars

[drtbk4ever]

ok, I know this has been discussed and talked about and been a hot topic for a long time. Well, last week I started experimenting based on some of my ideas and what others have said to try.

On my ski I have two lines coming from the breather going to a cathc can in the front of the motor and then to the intake. Also, I have the drain hose lifted out of the factory catch can. I have it lifted so level has to build so much before it can drain to the pan.

On my wifes ski I just have the hose lifted.

Today, while testing my ski both skis were ran very hard so I decided to check what was in the can.

On my ski when I pulled the hose several ounces of condensed blowby gas drained.

On my wife's ski without the additional breathers even more liquid drained. This was burning approx 3 bars of fuel and around 30 mile trip.


So, IMO the best fix for GIO is not to let the factory catch can drain directly to the pan. Either take a ty-rap to pull it up like I did or come up with your own way of preventing the drain back

BTW 72.2 today down 2 bars

JWilson, Thank you for your concise report. A few questions.

Did you disconnect the hose from the pan and then tie it up?
Did you tie off the top of this hose?
What did you use to block off the hole to the pan?

[spaulding]

I took a long ty-rap and pulled the hose up. It made a hump in the hose so level in the can would have to get above the hump before it would drain. It is very similar looking to the trap under a sink.

I did not disconnect anything.

[drtbk4ever]

I took a long ty-rap and pulled the hose up. It made a hump in the hose so level in the can would have to get above the hump before it would drain. It is very similar looking to the trap under a sink.

I did not disconnect anything.

I got it.

Keep us updated on how this is working for you.

And a photo would be very helpful for a newbie like me?

[kman]

Great, thank Jwilson. I was thinking of blocking off the hose to the pan and installing a drain valve on the botton of the catch can. But with a long hose I can just tie it up like you did and disconnect the hose to drain. Great idea!

[TheDome]

Pics please..

[spaulding]

Pics please..

What do you want pics of?

[kman]

Tryed pulling my hose up but there was only enough slack to get it slightly above the bottom of the catch can. I'm going to add a section of hose with a 90 degree coupler.

[kman]

Well, I installed the section of clear hose onto the main catch can drain and raised the drain up so any gas wouldn't drain into the oil pan. I took it for a 30 mile run and below are pictures of the gas that would have drained into my oil in just a 30 mile run. Bear in mind that I also have the R&D crankcase vent can which also has a bunch of gas in it. Last time I emptied this one after a couple of rides it had 4-5 ounces of fuel in it.

Anyone who posts here that this amount of gas draining into the oil is OK and we should just live with it and change the oil more frequently is crazy!!! Even if I changed my oil every 2 hours at $40 per change I would still have gas in the oil and this can't be good for the machine (not to mention my pocket book). Since there's no kawi dealer in my area I'm going to call them to see what can be done as my warrenty is up next month.

[spaulding]

Well, I installed the section of clear hose onto the main catch can drain and raised the drain up so any gas wouldn't drain into the oil pan. I took it for a 30 mile run and below are pictures of the gas that would have drained into my oil in just a 30 mile run. Bear in mind that I also have the R&D crankcase vent can which also has a bunch of gas in it. Last time I emptied this one after a couple of rides it had 4-5 ounces of fuel in it.

Anyone who posts here that this amount of gas draining into the oil is OK and we should just live with it and change the oil more frequently is crazy!!! Even if I changed my oil every 2 hours at $40 per change I would still have gas in the oil and this can't be good for the machine (not to mention my pocket book). Since there's no kawi dealer in my area I'm going to call them to see what can be done as my warrenty is up next month.

Well, I am glad somebody posted a photo so people can see what I was talking about.

How hard did you run it? IMO, the only reason GIO is a problem and talked about is Kawi routed the catch can back to the pan. What you are seeing is not gas, but condensed blowby gas.


The clearances required to allow a SC engine to survive for miles on end of WOT are not the same as you will find in an automobile.

If your ski is running fine and is up to speed as most then I would mention it, but not sweat it. Luckily, you found one entry before major damage occured.