96 XP Frozen starter and engine

[240witSR]

Ok guys, i bought my ski's and working on them now. They both took on a little water at one time and one starts and runs perfect despite some corrosion in the black box on the electrical connectors which I plan on fixing.

My second ski is a head ache. I pulled the plugs and couldnt turn the engine. Tried the starter with a direct battery connection but it only clicks. Removed the starter and it was rusted in the OUT postion and not turning or sliding back in the housing. Now I am ordering a starter.

My questions:
1) My problem is the engine wont turn over. Does that mean I need a new engine??
2) Will the corrosion in the black boxes cause any problems if I just clean them with electrical spray and grease them with contact grease?
3) Best place for a starter for cheap?

[96XPSS]

1. Pull the pump to isolate the engine. Many times the engine is mistaken when the pump is actually locked up.

2. The starter solenoid needs replacing. Also any corroded terminals on the ground post.

3. Did water run out of this cavity when you pulled the starter? If so, the stator may be rusted to the flywheel...resulting in the locked engine. Put a WTB in the classifieds, or you can order from this site.

[240witSR]

When i pull out the pump, dont i need to get the alignment checked after I reinstall it? I have the service manual but tell me anything It may not tell me please.

1) I can move the pump shaft (although VERY MINIMAL within the splines of the engine output), but can NOT move the PTO. DO you think I should install a new starter and try to crank it to break it loose? Its been soaking with WD40 and PB blaster for a day now too.
2) I will check the solenoid after i get the new starter and move from there.
3) Ordered a BRAND NEW starter from ebay for $70. Water did NOT come out of the hole but the starter was rusted as hell.

[96XPSS]

The alignment tool is necessary when the engine is pulled, not the pump. I'd find the problem before you try busting something with the starter.

[240witSR]

Great thanx. I am pretty sure the pump is not siezed since the starter was completely rusted in the open/start position but Ill remove it to check. I guess I should leave it out as well in case the engine needs to be removed.

If the engine in fact is siezed, can i just rebuild the top end or should i just replace the whole thing? I am new to the two stroke world

[96XPSS]

If the engine is seized pull the head and see if the rings are lightly rusted to the cylinders. The crank may be ok, but breaking it down to verify would be adviseable.

[240witSR]

If it was a car, i would tear it down completely but since its completely different, i was not sure what to do since the FSM says to tear down the engine to check for crank alignment/deflection which scared me. I figured if i cant break it loose tomorrow at work with a pry bar, breaker bar, and alot of PB blaster, ill pull the cylinders off and see if it will spin with the cylinders off.

Any other tips?

If i remove the engine, will a seadoo shop check the alignment for me after i install it or will it really get out of alignment just by removal and install?

[96XPSS]

I can tell you how to align it when you drop it back in. You don't need an alignment tool.

Disassemble away!

[VetteTech81]

I can tell you how to align it when you drop it back in. You don't need an alignment tool.

Disassemble away!

What's the secret to aligning without the tool?
-=Rick

[96XPSS]

What's the secret to aligning without the tool?
-=Rick

I'm selling the secret for half price of what the alignment tool costs...

I take PayPal and cash!