Rude...9.5 psi @ charger??

[BoostedH23a1]

hey guys installed my rude friday did some testing. it goes pretty good but my boost guage is saying 9.5 psi at the supercharger and 9 psi at the intake manifold. its seems likes its making more boost that 9.5 gps is saying 76...(no trim....gotta get deal to reset with buds).does this sound little slow...does to me.... 8050rpm with 81 ring.
im using an autometer boost guage at the moment because my dyno tune one only worked for about an hour in the salt.

keep in mind i am in the south but its not that hot yet.

2004 rxp
Rude charger
stock ecu
Rude RRFPR 12.4 air/fuel ratio with stock injectors
solas 15/20r prop +3mm
81mm ring
xs intercooler
hks ssbov
thru-hull
4" intake
shorty gutted waterbox
riva grate
rotax 55c thermo

[cbrich]

Your boost is way low should be in the 14 psig range, but I assume you are using an anolog boost gauge, instead of one with a pressure transducer.

[bruinsrme]

how will using an analog vs a digital gauge make a difference?
Asking because I am in the process of getting a boost gauge,
thanks
Scott

[JFizzleJR]

Make sure your boost gauge is reading accurately, your IC couplers aren't flaring, your blow-off valve is not leaking, and your stock IC block-off plate is sealed properly. I believe the rude should be around 12-13 PSI at 8100.

[cbrich]

how will using an analog vs a digital gauge make a difference?
Asking because I am in the process of getting a boost gauge,
thanks
Scott

I should have done a better job at wording what I said, I should have said mechanical versus electrical. A mechanical gauge used the plastic tubing, very similar to the cheap universal oil pressure gauge you see at Autozone. This plastic tubing creates head loss, the more you have the greater the head loss, or more pressure difference you have. A electrical gauge has a pressure sensor or transducer. The sensor screws right into the intake manifold thus keeping head loss to a very minimum, this is why electrical is better, but you have to a power source for electrical units.

[bruinsrme]

I should have done a better job at wording what I said, I should have said mechanical versus electrical. A mechanical gauge used the plastic tubing, very similar to the cheap universal oil pressure gauge you see at Autozone. This plastic tubing creates head loss, the more you have the greater the head loss, or more pressure difference you have. A electrical gauge has a pressure sensor or transducer. The sensor screws right into the intake manifold thus keeping head loss to a very minimum, this is why electrical is better, but you have to a power source for electrical units.

Thank you sir. That narrowed my search down

[BoostedH23a1]

i have checked the psi at the intake and right off the supercharger (tapped my intercooler piping, before blow off valve...9.5 psi. this is apretty new autometer mechanical guage that worked prior to rude, but last season. i have a dynotune intsalled on the ski but it only worked for 1 hour last year...dead ever sense, they dont work will in salt i guess i dont know, i rewired it about 8 times, then gave up... nothing on display. i also tested pressure from the rrfpr (straight off the ic blockoff) 9psi. so only loosing .5 psi from the charger to the intake. granted i am trying to watch this little ass thing doing 76 miles an hour. i have t clamps on all my couplers everythings good there.
why would it only read 9.5 out of the supercharger? ill take my other boost guages out of my car next weekend and try it but i dout thats the deal.

[JFizzleJR]

check the slip moment of the supercharger. even if it's close to new, it might need a shim. if the spring washers have a fair amount of hours on them, consider replacing them.

[BoostedH23a1]

its brand new out the box this weekend

[bigbuck12345]

its brand new out the box this weekend

you should still ck the slip of the s/c mine was way to loose from the factory