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  1. #1
    thompsdw's Avatar
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    4 Tec Engine: Removal, Rebuild, and Installation Tips

    I have searched and cannot find a post here that lists the "tricks" of the trade when pulling, rebuilding, and re-installing a 4 Tec engine (they are in bits and pieces of threads). I am about to do this job, so those tips would be very valuable to me. I have picked up a few (just some examples):

    - Picking up the motor some to remove the starter lead.
    - Lower intake bolts not needing to come out to remove the intake.
    - Marking the cam for re-installation.
    - Change the flywheel bolts if an older 4-Tec

    Can you guys that have done this help build a thread to make it a "less painful" process? If there is a thread I have missed, please help me get to it!


  2. #2
    Site Admin Green Hulk's Avatar
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    Do you own a service manual?

  3. #3
    thompsdw's Avatar
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    Yep, but ...............

    Absolutely, but that is not what I am talking about here. I have rebuilt a couple of engines and after I do the rebuild, I say "damn, if I had done it this way - it would have been much easier". They don't necessarily list those "tricks and tips" in the service manual. That is what I was trying to pickup in this tread. The tips and tricks, not the procedure. I have a manual for that.

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  5. #4
    Site Admin Green Hulk's Avatar
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    ah, i understand!

    Here are a few tips that come to mind on engine removal....

    to remove the driveshaft leave the pump in place. use the seadoo tool to push back the slide ring to reveal the circlip. Pry the circlip out of the drive shaft and then you can remove the pump. Lay an oil absorbent pad below the driveshaft where it enters the PTO housing. Now give the driveshaft a sharp pull from the back to remove it.

    Drain the coolant by removing the 5mm allen head plug in the back edge of the ride plate. Open the coolant bottle cap to help the coolant flow faster.


    Remove the fuel rail and set it off to the side (injectors still in place)

    Remove the intake manifold

    Disconnect the exhaust J pipe and slide the exhaust assembly back out of the way.

    Remove the supercharger

    remove the plumbing from the thermostat

    Remove the three bolts holding the engine down on its mounts

    Raise the engine up which will give you easier access to the postitive cable on the starter, ground wires on the front of the block and bottom hose connecting to the thermostat.

    Once everything is disconnected raise the engine out of the hull and proceed to rebuild the engine as per the manual.

    Hope that helps!

    Maybe others will add their input too

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    Bac

  7. #5
    thompsdw's Avatar
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    I hope so, if we get enough content this would be a good sticky.

  8. #6
    Site Admin Green Hulk's Avatar
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    i agree

  9. #7
    apactorpedo's Avatar
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    [quote=Green Hulk;504551]ah, i understand!

    Here are a few tips that come to mind on engine removal....

    to remove the driveshaft leave the pump in place. use the seadoo tool to push back the slide ring to reveal the circlip. Pry the circlip out of the drive shaft and then you can remove the pump. Lay an oil absorbent pad below the driveshaft where it enters the PTO housing. Now give the driveshaft a sharp pull from the back to remove it.

    this driveshaft tool is the only tool you need to pull motor? I thought i read in manual that it takes another to go along w/ it

  10. #8
    thompsdw's Avatar
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    I am going to try to populate this thread as I do my overhaul. Pulling the engine was tramatic, but managable. Mine was tough because the drive shaft was very corroded. The rear bearing that the drive shaft slips into is fozen on the shaft. So, basically, I had to pull the engine off of the drive shaft by shifting it forward and then pulling the driveshaft into the hull. Boy, that was easy .

    Tip #1: The hulk energy method didn't work in my case due to the corrosion, however, a 30mm combination wrench did. It was just the perfect size to act like a spanner and push the carrier seal back to remove the cir-clip.

    Worked, but I still had to slide the engine off the shaft due to the bearing. Head removal went pretty well. Took longer to get the engine on the harbor freight stand than pull the head. Given my timing chain is broken didn't worry to much about locking anything. Everything is out of time - will have to figure that out later. Lot of solids on top of the exhaust vales (no metal - very brittle). Valves all appeared to be seated very well. No obvious stem bending due to the timing chain failure. Time to tear down the head. Your going to love this ............

    The autozone spring compressor didn't work and I really wanted to tear down the head. Time to invent a tool.

    Tip #2: I used a large c-clamp and took a 3/4" brass plumbing coupling and notched the sides by about 3/8". The coupling was the perfect size to fit on the spring retainers and then I carpet taped a washer to match the valve size on the other side of the c-clamp. I compressed each spring, and then used the notches to insert a screwdriver and pop off the clips. Worked like a charm!

    Some interesting observations so far:

    - I cannot tell that any of the valves are bent. I used a dark background and a 90 degree drafting triangle and sighted along the stem to do the check. All of the valves slid easily out of the guides. Any other way to check this? Is this even possible to not bend one?

    - The chain tensioner was a problem. I pulled the plug and the chain tensioner itself was not there?? The cylindrical tube is no where to be found yet. If that caused the failure or resulted from the failure, I simply do not know, but it is MIA.

    - The chain clearly yielded. It has a stretched link. I haven't split the cases yet but I can see down the timing chain chamber and see one place where there is very slight case damage (on a corner), but believe it to be in an place where it is inconsequential.

    - The starter drive gear teeth appear to be damaged (from what I can see with my bore-scope). All other gears/sprockets look perfectly fine.

    - The valves are pretty coked up (espec exhaust), however, the seats all look great. Any idea how to clean these up so I can check tolerances????

    - The crank rotates freely with no binding. Still have to split the cases to change the chain (design?), I guess I will check everthing out completely.

    I love doing this type of work. Fun to learn, I appreciate the coaching on this forum. More to come with pictures (I am keeping a photo log) after complete disassembly. Final tip for today:

    Tip #3: I cannot imagine pulling the engine without a chain fall or engine hoist. The engine hoist I purchased from HF was invaluable.

  11. #9
    zRaXcPk's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Green Hulk View Post
    Do you own a service manual?
    Jerry do you sell service manuals? I've been looking for one and was hoping that I wouldn't have to go to the stealer to pick one up. Or if anyone knows where I can find one, that would be a big help, Thanks!

  12. #10

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    This will all come in handy once I start swapping hulls. That is, once I find a replacement.

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