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  1. #21
    thompsdw's Avatar
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    Thanks Steve. This is one the issues I am facing that I haven't answered yet. How far do I go on a rebuild? I threw a timing chain, so I know I have valve damage and need to open the engine up for inspection, but do I look at all the mains, etc. Do I change the rings?

    Are the rod screws a known technical issue, or do you change them if they are disturbed???? I guess I should plastigage all the mains anyway. I would welcome recommendations on "how far to go" in this tread. I know it depends on the damage, but assume for a minute that it is limited to the head (valves, etc.) and timing chain for now.


  2. #22
    Moderator Franko's Avatar
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    Do you know what caused your timing chain to break? Did you have a previous SC washer failure? If so, I would go all the way to the bottom to clean everything up properly. I would replace rings if it were me. At $60 per set, it's pretty cheap.

  3. #23
    thompsdw's Avatar
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    Mine is a NA 155, so I am assuming this is yet another instance of a bad timing chain. No water ingestion or other issue. Just mysteriously stopped running one day.

  4. #24
    Moderator Franko's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by friebe1 View Post
    If you remove the oil pressure relief valve never reuse the bolt and ALWAYS torque to 106 in lbs with a proper torque wrench for that range. NO EXCEPTIONS.
    Steve, where is the oil pressure relief valve located? Is this the same as the oil pressure switch?

  5. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by thompsdw View Post
    Thanks Steve. This is one the issues I am facing that I haven't answered yet. How far do I go on a rebuild? I threw a timing chain, so I know I have valve damage and need to open the engine up for inspection, but do I look at all the mains, etc. Do I change the rings?

    Are the rod screws a known technical issue, or do you change them if they are disturbed???? I guess I should plastigage all the mains anyway. I would welcome recommendations on "how far to go" in this tread. I know it depends on the damage, but assume for a minute that it is limited to the head (valves, etc.) and timing chain for now.
    How many hours are on the motor? If you have over 100 hours on it pull it all the way down for sure. Replace the bearings and rings and whatever else measures out of spec.

    The connecting rod bolts only need to be replaced if you loosen them to remove the rods, pistons etc..

  6. #26
    friebe1's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Franko View Post
    Steve, where is the oil pressure relief valve located? Is this the same as the oil pressure switch?
    Not the same!
    Numbers 10-15 in the attached photo comprise the oil pressure regulator.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Click image for larger version. 

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  7. #27
    thompsdw's Avatar
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    How about the tool to service the valves (compress the springs and remove the retainers)? Is there a way to do this service procedure without that tool?

  8. #28
    Moderator Franko's Avatar
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    No, you need that tool and the clamp it fits onto. You have to compress the valve springs to get the retainers off.

  9. #29
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    [quote=Green Hulk;504551]ah, i understand!

    Here are a few tips that come to mind on engine removal....

    to remove the driveshaft leave the pump in place. use the seadoo tool to push back the slide ring to reveal the circlip. Pry the circlip out of the drive shaft and then you can remove the pump. Lay an oil absorbent pad below the driveshaft where it enters the PTO housing. Now give the driveshaft a sharp pull from the back to remove it.

    this driveshaft tool is the only tool you need to pull motor? I thought i read in manual that it takes another to go along w/ it

  10. #30
    thompsdw's Avatar
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    I am going to try to populate this thread as I do my overhaul. Pulling the engine was tramatic, but managable. Mine was tough because the drive shaft was very corroded. The rear bearing that the drive shaft slips into is fozen on the shaft. So, basically, I had to pull the engine off of the drive shaft by shifting it forward and then pulling the driveshaft into the hull. Boy, that was easy .

    Tip #1: The hulk energy method didn't work in my case due to the corrosion, however, a 30mm combination wrench did. It was just the perfect size to act like a spanner and push the carrier seal back to remove the cir-clip.

    Worked, but I still had to slide the engine off the shaft due to the bearing. Head removal went pretty well. Took longer to get the engine on the harbor freight stand than pull the head. Given my timing chain is broken didn't worry to much about locking anything. Everything is out of time - will have to figure that out later. Lot of solids on top of the exhaust vales (no metal - very brittle). Valves all appeared to be seated very well. No obvious stem bending due to the timing chain failure. Time to tear down the head. Your going to love this ............

    The autozone spring compressor didn't work and I really wanted to tear down the head. Time to invent a tool.

    Tip #2: I used a large c-clamp and took a 3/4" brass plumbing coupling and notched the sides by about 3/8". The coupling was the perfect size to fit on the spring retainers and then I carpet taped a washer to match the valve size on the other side of the c-clamp. I compressed each spring, and then used the notches to insert a screwdriver and pop off the clips. Worked like a charm!

    Some interesting observations so far:

    - I cannot tell that any of the valves are bent. I used a dark background and a 90 degree drafting triangle and sighted along the stem to do the check. All of the valves slid easily out of the guides. Any other way to check this? Is this even possible to not bend one?

    - The chain tensioner was a problem. I pulled the plug and the chain tensioner itself was not there?? The cylindrical tube is no where to be found yet. If that caused the failure or resulted from the failure, I simply do not know, but it is MIA.

    - The chain clearly yielded. It has a stretched link. I haven't split the cases yet but I can see down the timing chain chamber and see one place where there is very slight case damage (on a corner), but believe it to be in an place where it is inconsequential.

    - The starter drive gear teeth appear to be damaged (from what I can see with my bore-scope). All other gears/sprockets look perfectly fine.

    - The valves are pretty coked up (espec exhaust), however, the seats all look great. Any idea how to clean these up so I can check tolerances????

    - The crank rotates freely with no binding. Still have to split the cases to change the chain (design?), I guess I will check everthing out completely.

    I love doing this type of work. Fun to learn, I appreciate the coaching on this forum. More to come with pictures (I am keeping a photo log) after complete disassembly. Final tip for today:

    Tip #3: I cannot imagine pulling the engine without a chain fall or engine hoist. The engine hoist I purchased from HF was invaluable.

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