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  1. #11
    Moderator RX951's Avatar
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    Thumbs up

    Quote Originally Posted by thompsdw View Post
    I hope so, if we get enough content this would be a good sticky.
    Quote Originally Posted by Green Hulk View Post
    i agree

    done This is a good thread. This is a good thread to add more pics of engine assembly, dissasembly, rebuild TIPS

  2. #12
    thompsdw's Avatar
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    Tools???????

    I would like to see some discussion on just what "special tools" are required to do the job. I have already read about the green hulk "uuummmphhh - mallet method" method in place of the shaft tool, but do I really need to use the cam lock tool???? Others?

    I know I need to invest in some Torx external sockets....

  3. #13
    Moderator The Bandit's Avatar
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    but do I really need to use the cam lock tool????

    A 3/8 bolt works well as a Cam lock tool.

  4. #14
    thompsdw's Avatar
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    What about tools to service the valves in the head? Will a normal automotive spring compressor work?

  5. #15
    kp04rxp's Avatar
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    I completely disassembled my 04 rxp with barely any special tools, although I did not take apart the engine other then the pto housing and the exhaust manifold. The only special tools I used were the internal torx sockets and an engine alignment tool. You'll need an impeller removal tool also if your working on the prop/wear ring.

    Drive shaft is easy without the tool. Climb up on the ski on your knees w/ one on each side of the engine compartment kind of squating over the rear. Reach in and pull back on the carbon seal assembly. Have someone remove the circle clip and your good to go. Used wd-40 and steel wool to clean rust off the shaft if necessary.
    Last edited by kp04rxp; 01-11-2008 at 07:29 PM.

  6. #16
    HORSEPOWER JUNKIE 9secZO6's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by GPRXP Steve View Post
    A 3/8 bolt works well as a Cam lock tool.
    so does a 1/4" drive extension

  7. #17
    thompsdw's Avatar
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    Come on - to get performance you have to be able to pull the engine and put it back in. I know you speed junkies have more tips than this!!!


  8. #18
    friebe1's Avatar
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    I would go with what Jerry said other than:

    Move the exhaust back first,
    Then pull the supercharger
    then do the driveshaft
    those three in that order.

    When pulling the intake. I leave the fuel rail and the fuel line and throttle cable and all wires attached.
    Just unhook the plug going to the speed sensor and the vts on the rxp, then remove the 4 bolts that hold the ecm in place. Leave the ecm plugged it, the less you mess with the kostal connectors the better. You let the ecm float to remove the plug bracket from underneath it.( the one for the stator and knock sensor)Unplug those two connectors and the one for the cps if it is pre 06. Next remove the 3) 6mm bolts from the front of the motor that holds all the ground wires. Unplug the plug from the waterbox, coolant temp sensor and cam sensor and then remove the connectors from the tops and the oil tank pressure switch if it is pre-06. Pull the 7 bollts from the manifold. Carefully pull the top of the manifold away from the head just enough to remove the dipstick tube and pull it out. Next reach down and unplug the connector from the oil pressure sender so you dont damage the plug when pulling the manifold.
    Cover the right footwell with some towels and pull the manifold up and out while turning the assembly a 1/4 turn counterclockwise then roll the manifold and set its back down on the towels on the footwell.

    When I put the motor back in I put all 3 ground wires to the top bolt of the front engine lifter bracket. On the rxt only 2 small ones go there.and the large one stays in the stock posistion. Much eaisier to get to.

    Make sure you replace the 6) rockerarm shaft bolts, the 6) connecting rod bolts , and the 6) flywheel bolts on all models. Replace the head bolts on all 07 and newer or if pre 07 if they measure out of spec. Make sure you use the torque to yield bolt kit for the flywheel. Not just new bolts.

    I also always replace the bottom engine plugs and the plug for the oil pressure relief valve if you remove it.

    If you remove the oil pressure relief valve never reuse the bolt and ALWAYS torque to 106 in lbs with a proper torque wrench for that range. NO EXCEPTIONS.

    I would buy the cam and crank locking tools, they are resonable enough. And you need the crank one to tighten the torque to yield flywheel bolts properly.

    Steve
    Last edited by friebe1; 01-17-2008 at 08:54 PM. Reason: incomplete

  9. #19
    thompsdw's Avatar
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    Now that is what I am talking about Steve! It helps me with the "which bolts need to be new" question. What bolts do you mean by the "rod" bolts? Do you mean the rocker arm shaft screws?
    Last edited by thompsdw; 01-15-2008 at 08:33 AM.

  10. #20
    friebe1's Avatar
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    I mean the connecting rod bolts, 2 for each rod.
    Yes the rocker arm shaft screws.
    Edited the post, hope this helps!
    We purhased a Habor frieght engine stand that had 4 slotted, movable arms attached to the head. Just did not use 1 arm , got the right length 10x1.50 bolts and were good to go.
    Steve

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