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  1. #21
    Dazz67's Avatar
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    pumps all sorted
    shaft is 20 3/8,,,so the 24 3/8 is the go
    SS wear ring on spacer piece,,has got the corrosion wobbles big time..that'll need replacing,,if I'm gunna do-it
    .
    .
    .
    wots the performance gains like...do most of the Pro pumps go that way??
    .
    and is a re-alignment a must with this or is the angle of the dangle the same??


  2. #22
    She likes the bike. But the ski gets her wet!!!! xlint89's Avatar
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    Another 1, MAYBE 2 MPH. BUT the drive shaft flexing DEFINATELY needs to be addressed. It can trash pump bearings and hull seals if gone unchecked. The hardened shafts reduce the flexing. No alignment needed as long as you don't remove the wear ring attached to the hull.

  3. #23
    sea~smith sea~smith's Avatar
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    I received my alignment tool today Thanks alot FLjoyrider! I now "might" have everything I need to begin my pump rebuild for the slx. I realllllly don't want to replace the stator and want to know if there are any suggested tests that can be done to verify if it might still be ok. As far as condition, it looks perfect, no marks in the bearing channels and no chips in the veins. I will replace the stub shaft just in case, but a stator going bad seems like a very odd thing to go wrong, being so sturdy looking...?

    Pho2craft suggested putting the bearings in and then seeing how freely the stub shaft slides in. can i also try sliding the alignment tool in to verify? (stub shaft hasnt arrived.) Also, once the bearings are in I'm assuming they woudl be very hard to get abck out undamaged, is this test a bit of a one shot deal?

  4. #24
    ph2ocraft's Avatar
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    You need to press the bearings into the stator in order to install the stub shaft anyway. You are simply going to leave the stub shaft out and use the alignment tool to make sure the engine is aligned to the pump. My suggestion is to install the bearings, bolt everything up and torque it down, then run the alignment tool through the bearings and into the engine and make sure it's aligned.

  5. #25
    sea~smith sea~smith's Avatar
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    Will do,

    I was just wondering, if the alignment tool in fact does not go through the bearings smoothly, will I be able to get the bearings out again, so that I can replace the stator if need be? I remember having to the destroy the old ones to get them out...I also know about heating up the stator and freezing the bearings to make the job easier.

  6. #26
    ph2ocraft's Avatar
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    I like you doubt the stator can be the issue, but you never know.
    But if that's the case, maybe destroy the stator to get your bearings.
    Although if you bought bearings from a bearing house and not the dealer they should have been very inexpensive and not worth the effort to remove them from your new found door stop.
    Be sure the "stop" the bearing sits on is clean of any debris or chisel/punch indentations before installing the new bearings. If the bearing can't sit flush, it'll never work right.

  7. #27
    ph2ocraft's Avatar
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    Have a photo of the stator (both ends) with the bearings out?

  8. #28
    sea~smith sea~smith's Avatar
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    The bearing rebuild kit is by WSM. I cleaned up the stator and that is what I get...see anything that bothers you?
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  9. #29
    Lake Mead Bum & BTLS Mark starflight's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by sea~smith View Post
    The bearing rebuild kit is by WSM. I cleaned up the stator and that is what I get...see anything that bothers you?
    That looks terrible! You need to send it to me. i need a new 6 vane door stop.

    JK looks good to me.

  10. #30
    ph2ocraft's Avatar
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    Just verify there are no lumps where the bearing will sit (hard to verify with a picture) but the rest looks good.
    Get them bearings in there and see how the alignment tool feels inside the stator assembly.

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