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  1. #21
    Hydrotoys's Avatar
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    The idea worked great but i found that once i got the ball valves set right the electronic system never really cycled any more
    I like it. So you mentioned when it saw 180 that it opens up the valve, did you use a stock switch in the head or cover?


  2. #22
    fabrication guru rapidacceleration's Avatar
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    the adjustable switch comes with a 1/4npt sensor.
    you can get automotive fan switches that are compact 2 wire switches preset too. (160,170,180,200,etc)
    I put the sensor on the exiting water after the oil cooler.

    mine SHUTS OFF the bypass pisser i got between the ic and motor..
    useing a normally open valve the water stays flowing to the bypass pisser.
    when the fan switch turns on (approx 180) the valve is "activated" and closes off the water to the pisser. and a RED LED indicator on the dash lits up. Now more water is forced threw the motor instead. You can accually watch the temp gauge drop when the silinods closes.

    but you could plum a normally closed valve (pictured)to bypass your ballvalve too. that was the first way we tried and it worked well also..

    just a few idea's to toss around.
    theres alwas room for improvement.

  3. #23
    Hydrotoys's Avatar
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    Sweet!

    Did your mileage improve once you got your temps up?

  4. #24
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    Why wont this work to restrict the cooling water ?


    http://208.109.212.10/Waveeater/towing.htm
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  5. #25
    My son (mohawk man) jeffsntx's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mrbtd View Post
    Why wont this work to restrict the cooling water ?


    http://208.109.212.10/Waveeater/towing.htm
    It will, but it is more expensive than a brass ball valve.

  6. #26
    Hydrotoys's Avatar
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    Yeah, but maybe it will make all the closed loop guys less "angry" when they see the ball valve.

  7. #27
    pjsc823's Avatar
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    cooling system

    has anyone tried to keep the closed loop system. i ride in salt and im in the process of making mine with closed system by using a marine heat exchanger.

  8. #28
    Duke's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by pjsc823 View Post
    has anyone tried to keep the closed loop system. i ride in salt and im in the process of making mine with closed system by using a marine heat exchanger.
    A few of the guys have been looking at it but size of the heat exchanger is the problem. Most of us are using an external I/C and it takes up a lot of room.

    It can and will be done tho.
    Last edited by Duke; 07-30-2008 at 09:08 AM.

  9. #29
    EZ Dock of Long Island Shibby1485's Avatar
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    u wont believe what salt water does to the water jackets of the block...

    in all seriousness, after i saw one motor that was run open loop in salt what it looked like inside, the idea crossed my mind or circulating acid thru the passages before i finished building the motor. all the black powdercoat and paint inside the block peeled and was jamming up everywhere floating around inside....

  10. #30
    LAZBUSA's Avatar
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    OK GUYS I HAVE READ THIS THREAD OVER AND OVER AND LOOK AT THE diagram IN THE FIRST PAGE AND CANT EVEN READ OR UNDERSTAND WHAT I HAVE TO DO AS FAR THE COOLING GOES CAN I GET SOME HELP OR PIC ON WHAT I HAVE TO DO TO RUN A STOCK RXP MOTOR ON MY CONVERTION. AND HAS ANYBODY DONE THIS CONVERTION WITH A RXP-X MOTOR? THANKS GUYS. LAZ

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