GPRXP Open Loop Cooling

[addicted]

How can the engine run at 15 psi if the oem radiator cap is at 13psi?

Fizz,

read this. http://www.greenhulk.net/forums/showthread.php?t=46509

I am in the middle of plumbing mine right now. please anyone tell me what i may be missing. I really want to keep the thermostat.

[Hydrotoys]

After finally experiencing my conversion ski run right I have a few questions regarding the open loop temp control.

Would having more than 15 psi to the engine cause the temp to fluctuate 40°+ with the smallest adjustment on the ball valve?
YES. The engine shouldn't see more than 20psi if you want to control the temp. Did you hook it up like the diagram or listen to 4 different folks and try and make the best of it? Something isn't right, if the simple ball valve doesn't work.

Is there any mod that can be done to better help control the fluctuation before the engine has been running for a while?
Yes, keep your pressure down below 20psi. At the same time, you should have no problems keeping the IC at 35psi which will keep it loaded with water properly and keep your exhaust cooled correctly.

Any mastermind have input on how to implement a thermostat in the open loop system instead? Find a SST/Brass thermostat, and find a way to put it in the stock system...but if you don't lower the incoming pressure to below 20psi, expect to see further issues.


What exactly are the advantages of the ball valve?
To maintain your pressure below 20psi in your engine. Without it you will see pressure fluctuations up over 50psi...or higher. The engine was NOT designed to deal with these pressure spikes. Lord only knows what kind of other damage you will cause by doing this...like forcing water into cylinders.

It's not that hard. Don't make it complicated.

[JFizzleJR]

Ok. The ball valve works. It's just touchy at times. I need to check the water pressure for sure. The routing I have is working fine. Thanks for the answers.

[Hydrotoys]

Guys,
Dan "Rapid Acceleration" designed a fool-proof system. IT WORKS. It works four different ways to Sunday. You can damn near plumb this puppy backwards forwards, upside down... as long as you maintain a pressure near what SD designed it for.

Feel free to find a better way, and please share it. But don't make this way seem so damn hard. It's mind-rottingly simple, and has worked in many situations. Dan did the very easiest path to this, and it's been made simple with diagrams and explanations.

[Hydrotoys]

Ok. The ball valve works. It's just touchy at times. I need to check the water pressure for sure. The routing I have is working fine. Thanks for the answers.

If your temps are fluctuating, it ain't working.

[JFizzleJR]

It only does this in the first 10 mins of riding if that means anything.

[Hydrotoys]

...and then it's steady 160deg or something a little higher??

[JFizzleJR]

Yes, there's a place on the valve where it stays between 160 and 180, but only after a fair amount of running time. I really need to check the pressure. I don't think the routing is the problem, but maybe the hose sizes are.

[jeffsntx]

Fizzle, if you are talking about using a thermostat, be aware that you will have to find a way to get water in the engine when the thermostat is closed. The engine will be dry if you are running the open loop with a thermostat until the thermostat opens. I have talked about this with some others and it is a difficult thing to do and balance everything out.

[rapidacceleration]

ive experimented with a electronic temp control.
basicly used a adjustable fan switch from summit.
and a water silinod from riva. when the temp gets 180 it closes my bypass pisser - forceing more water to the motor. had a red LED on the dash too.
If you were going to use a system like this the only thing i would try differently is to find a bigger electronic valve or connect two riva valve together so you could get more flow.

The idea worked great but i found that once i got the ball valves set right the electronic system never really cycled any more