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Thread: cylinder honing

  1. #1

    Question cylinder honing

    How do you go about honing a cylinder without f#%^$&g it up? Is there a science to doing this or is it pretty basic? I have never had to do this and someone mentioned that you can rent one from the local parts store.

  2. #2
    Wankel till I die!! jonjonwells's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    SE Kansas
    Here ya go. I stole this. hehe This technique works pretty well, but a drill press is much easier to use than a standard drill. You are able to control the speed of rotation and your stroke much easier.

    How-to: Hone a cylinder bore

    Table of Contents Re: honing "William Gallas" <wngallas@worldnet.att> Tue, 20 Mar 2001 00:04:12 GMT Re: honing Marc Warden <marc.warden@att> Thu, 22 Mar 2001 22:51:35 GMT

    From From: "William Gallas" <wngallas@worldnet.att> Subject: Re: honing Date: Tue, 20 Mar 2001 00:04:12 GMT Organization: AT&T Worldnet Newsgroups: Dave,

    Yessir, you must break the glaze from the previous rings travel. A decent
    three hone tool is 20 - 30 bux. You use a standard variable speed electric
    drill. A crosshatch pattern in the cylinder bore when done aids in breakin
    in and correct oil dispersion. 45 degrees is the target angle of the
    crosshatch to shoot for. The technique is easy: Oil the hones and place the
    unit in the bore. Slowly start the rotation of the hone. At the same time
    move the hones quickly up and down in the bore while running 60-150 RPM on
    the drill. After 20 seconds or so check for the correct crosshatch. It
    should look like a basket weave with the angle mentioned above. The rabbit I
    did took about 1 minute per cylinder. Then use a good stiff brush and scrub
    the bores with hot, soapy water to remove all traces of honing material.
    This step is very important. If you don't do a good job your NEW rings will
    suffer and the rebuild won't be worth the effort. Rinse with plenty of
    water. Then dry and reoil the bores to protect them from rust.

  3. #3


    Thanks for the information. I will follow the precedure as noted.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Cedar Rapids,Iowa
    It's sorta like with your girlfriend,steady up and down,but be aware of how deep you go and don't slip out or you'll mess up the stones.

  5. #5
    ph2ocraft's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Campbell, Ca.
    LOL Yeah, you don't want to ruin the twig and berries.

  6. #6

    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    down under
    Thats not how you do it.

    You need a rigid hone, the ball hones just re-texture, the 3 stone wabble hones that are available are even worse. They accentuate the error or take too much material away around the ports.

    I have an ancient AN sunnen that actually makes the bore right, not just new lookin.

    The honing is very important if you want to make honest power.

  7. #7

    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    down under
    If you want to do stuff right, there are very affordable quality hones that constantly come up on ebay. Here are some reccommended.




    Don't run a shit hone through a cylinder that you care about.

  8. #8
    PolarisNut's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Lower Michigan
    Yup, the rigid hones are the best, as the hand held ones will NOT true up the cylinder, they just follow whats already there. If you only need to deglaze the cylinder for a re-ring, the hand held pieces will suffice. I was suprised at how the hone pattern started out on my 1200 cylinders that were low hour. The Sunnen hone that was used, trued them up. I even went the distance and had the exhaust flanges bolted on while honing, as they will distort the bore slightly. The automatic, rigid hones leave a perfect crosshatch pattern too...not too steep and not too shallow.

  9. #9


    Thanks alot. I will check out the good old ebay for something worth buying.

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