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08-08-2007, 01:08 PM #1
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- Aug 2007
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Replacing a Fuel Baffle on a 1997 Sea Doo GTX
Hello All,
Just found you guys today. I've been out of the PWC world for a couple of years(new kids and injuries). But I'm trying to get back in the game this summer. (I know kinda late in the season.)
I have a 97 GTX that has been sitting for a couple of years. It went into the shop for a checkup yesterday, just so I could get it back on the water. One of the things that had been wrong with it was I was not getting any reading from my fuel gauge. The service guy said that it would need to have the baffle replaced and would cost about $300. Now I have not committed to this yet as I really don't go thru the whole tank in one day so it really isn't a big deal. But I got into looking at what the part was and what I could buy it for online. And from just brief pictures of the part it does not look to hard to replace but I wanted to see what you guys had to say about the task at hand.
Can I save myself over $150 by doing the install myself or is it easier to just spend the money. FWIW I am mechanically inclined and can handle wuite a bit. Wouldn't go as far as replace/rebuilding and engine, but I can certainly replace parts on it.
TIA
Dave
PS I think I'll be spending quite a bit more time here.
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08-08-2007, 02:31 PM #2
Check out 2 threads below. There is a thread entry for both types of sending units.
They'll save you ALOT more than $150
http://greenhulk.net/forums/showthread.php?t=26012
http://greenhulk.net/forums/showthread.php?t=26017
Removing the baffle is a piece of cake so no worries. It would be wise to mark the locations of the 4 hoses going into the top of the baffle just to save you a little time during reinstallation.
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08-08-2007, 02:57 PM #3
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- Aug 2007
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- 2
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08-08-2007, 03:02 PM #4
I did the repair a few weeks ago on my dad's 98 GTX. It's actually VERY simple. Once you have the unit out and the bottom cap/screen removed, you will be able to see the row of pickups. Obviously, this will be the side of the unit that will need to be opened to gain access to the "F1" circuit. Just a smidge of cleaning on that circuit and a pinch of solder and it's a done deal as far as the internal work. Sealing the unit back together isn't bad at all if you have plastic weld tip like what is shown.
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08-08-2007, 09:41 PM #5
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08-09-2007, 10:50 PM #6
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08-10-2007, 12:45 PM #7
could also be the fuel float which is an even easier fix. the old floats were cork and the magnets would fall off. if you have the old style float, replace it with the new plastic type.
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