Pro 785 CDI?

[webworks]

Hi Guys,

I have been told that the 97 pro 785 cdi isn't as good as the 00 pro can anyone tell me why?

And by anychance has someone got one or can get one?

Thanks,

Dan

[ph2ocraft]

It has to be the timing curve, wish I knew them.
Have you tried calling Randy yet?

[SeaLion]

Al, I sent you the different cdi numbers with corresponding timing when you bought my triples. That had several year cdi descriptions. I unfortunately didn't make a copy of it. Maybe you still have it somewhere?

[ph2ocraft]

So we need to find x and see if he kept them as I left everything in the box as you shipped them to me.

[xlint89]

Nothing about CDI info with the paperwork. Just install directions and some hand written diagrams for cooling hose routing.

[webworks]

Hi Guys,

Have already emailed Randy, he said he didn't have one and to ask you guys.

I know it will be hard finding an 00 cdi, but if the 97 cdi wasn't good quality is there an aftermarket cdi you might recommend.

Cheers,

Dan.

[Watcon]

Danny, etc,,,

Sorry I haven't been able to keep up with your orders, e-mails, etc this week, as I have been really swamped here..... I apologize for the delay.

The 1998 - 2000 785 CDI has 2 degrees more initial timing (36 degrees) and the same fining timing and rev limiter.. If you cut the wire (loop) it will give you approx 100-200 more Rpm before it hits the rev limiter. The most important difference between the two CDI's is the exhaust valve opening, as the Z98 and newer open the valves 2mm higher. Be sure to re-set your valve cables after installation... The must "click" or lightly tap at the bottom of the stroke, but you don't want any extra freeplay in the cable... If they dont come fully to the bottom, you will lose torque & accelleration. If they are too loose, you will lose peak Rpm. An average 785 Pro (any year) shold turn between 7600-7800 Rpm.

I really have never been impressed with the rear pump brace, and didn't really fine it necessary to install, but you need to "foam" the rear of the hull under the footwells. (available at Watcon of course) to keep the stress cracks from forming. The 1997 hull is my personal favorite, but it was very light and needs foaming ASAP..

The "left turn" bog is your friend, as it tells you your jetting is too rich.. The "right turn" bog tells you your jetting is too lean.. (see tuning tips).

The 1997 pipe plumbing was good for performance, but Polaris changed it for 1998 because the plumbing didn't feed any water to the stingers/waterbox below approx 3500 Rpm, and customers were melting stinger hoses in the "no wake" areas.. There should be an updated plumbing system on Greenhulk somewhere. I used the 1997 water routing for racing, and the 1998 system for recreational riders.

Don't try to prop the 785 too tall, as they need to rev high to get off the timing curve in the mid Rpm.. For a STOCK boat, a 12-17 is the place to start..

The 1997 carb circuitry was completely different internally, and the OEM jetting is way different so be careful if somebody is suppliying you with jetting specs. 1998 & newer carbs were slightly better for accelleration, but not enough to warrent purchasing the new ones.

The 785 Pros were awesome, and I really enjoyed them..
Sorry for the long post, I hope you find this useful.

Regards,
Randy

[webworks]

Hey Randy,

Cheers for the info, very welcome as I know you're busy.

So 2 part foam is a must then, I think it's already on my order

I have to say though I can't see where I would put the foam in the rear footwell, seem to be full as it is.

Will take some pictures of the said area.

I will start my hunt for a cdi then.

I will also snip the wires, as it won't be damaging to the engine.

There is so much you can do to improve the 785, I didn't have this with my 1200.

Cheers,

Dan

[SeaLion]

Sorry for the long post, I hope you find this useful.

Regards,
Randy

Information packed posts can never be too long. Write a novel if you like

[ph2ocraft]

Indeed!!^^^^^^^^^^^^^