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07-06-2007, 09:26 PM #1
Keihin CDCV carb guru????? I need help.
Has anyone worked on these. They suck. I can't seem to find any information on them anywhere. A simple breakdown, nothing..... All I could find was that no one has rebuild kits for them. They are dealer specific apparently. At a 100 buck a pop, decided to just do a good cleaning, but would like more info on them before I disassemble them. Anyone????????
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07-06-2007, 10:24 PM #2
- Join Date
- May 2007
- Location
- wichita ks
- Posts
- 32
Group k might be able to help.
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07-06-2007, 11:02 PM #3
- Join Date
- Aug 2005
- Posts
- 287
Carbs
What would you like to know?
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07-06-2007, 11:03 PM #4
Try skiworx they specialize in the 1200 kawi motor and those cv carbs. Btw you didnt say what they are actually doing.
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07-07-2007, 12:36 AM #5
I am assuming that they are extremely clogged. Will rev to full rpms on trailer but not with a loaded pump. We swapped carbs off of a know good ski and it worked perfect. Fuel pump was rebuilt. Still same.
Was wanting a breakout, so I can see what is in there before I take it apart. Would hate to mess them up.
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07-07-2007, 03:18 PM #6
- Join Date
- Aug 2005
- Posts
- 287
Carbs
theirs only two areas you can really do anything with.
One is the vacuum slides. Thats the round plastic cap with 4 screws on the right side of the carbs. If your slides are not opening enough you won't get full signal. The slot cut into the top of the carbs is where the slided get their signal from. Once you open up the caps you'll see the rubber diapragm. be careful with this. make sure it's not pinched of torn. theirs a plastic bolt that holds the needle inside the slide if you remove this you can remove the needle. Be careful it has nylon washers on it and and spring you don't want to loose them. normally they stick to the needle but it's better to know their there.
The jets are inside the oval shaped plastic cap on the lower side of the carbs. You will need to remove the check valve body. this has a plastic flapper valve that will need to be inspected as well as the hole.
Be careful not to bend the float arm removing the check valve. you'll need to check the float arm for clearance. It should be 1-2mm.
The other parts you'll need to inspect are the O-ring on the valve seat and the rubber diapragm on the carb cover, and the rubber sleeve the vacuum slide goes in.
Be very careful putting the plastic bolt back on the vacuum slide it doesn't take much force to break it!!
On another note. Stxr814 is right the jets are 165's not 160's. I forgot I drill mine out to 170's. I'm just used to seeing the #165 number.Last edited by Shogun; 07-07-2007 at 03:22 PM. Reason: I can't spell!!
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07-07-2007, 07:04 PM #7
Umkay, so they were dirty as hell. Cleaned like a mad man, but to no avail. Still runs like crap. Did see an improvement, but not that much to be honest.
Any ideas????
Here are a couple of pics. Sorry for the crappy quality. Just to give you an idea of how dirty they were.
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07-07-2007, 08:34 PM #8
Man those looked like @$$ looks like you did a pretty good cleaning on them. I would try spraying carb cleaner in every hole and orfice the other place I would look would be the fuel pump. If you pull the pulse line and gas runs out its toast.
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07-07-2007, 08:41 PM #9
- Join Date
- Aug 2005
- Posts
- 287
Can you give me details on what it's doing. Is it slow off the start or does it just not rev all the way up?? Does it sound like it's only running on two cylinders?
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07-07-2007, 08:43 PM #10
- Join Date
- Aug 2005
- Posts
- 287
you say someone rebuilt your fuel pump?? Where did you get the parts to do that? I thought you had to get a new one.
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