top end rebuild...? 2001 1200PV

[BlitzK]

Hey guys... I'm looking at buying a 2001 XLT1200. It has ~110hours on it.

From what I've seen on here, after 100 hours you should do a carb and topend rebuild.

What all is involved in a topend rebuild and what would the parts cost?

If performance parts can be used and don't cost a lot more, I'd go with them.

[jeffsntx]

You really cant base a rebuild on how many hours are on the ski. If the carbs have never been rebuilt it is probably well over due for it. Check the compression and if its good run it.

[BlitzK]

Thats what I plan on doing...

I'll do the carbs for sure...

I'm just trying to look into the future at what it's going to involve/cost.

I plan on doing some mods anyways (impeller, dplate, ride plate, intake grate, PV clips).

at 110hours (in saltwater), I'm sure it will need a rebuild eventually!

[enforcer]

BlitzK, get the cat out asap!. Definately go with the D-plate and chip and if you like the sound go loud with the free-flow.The PV clips to get R the wave-eaters........You can call Carl @ Island Racing he has them.If U haven't done so allready, do the basics...... Pump plug kit,the above info. as well as a Solas Concord 13-19....... that should get U better top end as well as better acceleration....... but definately get an intake grate!

[jeffsntx]

Thats what I plan on doing...

I'll do the carbs for sure...

I'm just trying to look into the future at what it's going to involve/cost.

I plan on doing some mods anyways (impeller, dplate, ride plate, intake grate, PV clips).

at 110hours (in saltwater), I'm sure it will need a rebuild eventually!

A rebuild just depends on what is damaged when you tear it apart. I guess the best case senario would be:
Hone cylinders
New pistons, pins, bearings, clips
Gaskets
Be sure to check crank when disassembled

Worst case would be:
Bore/plate
New pistons, pins, bearings, clips
Gaskets and seals
Crank (if needed, check lateral play when disassembled)

[BlitzK]

BlitzK, get the cat out asap!. Definately go with the D-plate and chip and if you like the sound go loud with the free-flow.The PV clips to get R the wave-eaters........You can call Carl @ Island Racing he has them.If U haven't done so allready, do the basics...... Pump plug kit,the above info. as well as a Solas Concord 13-19....... that should get U better top end as well as better acceleration....... but definately get an intake grate!

Thanks,

Yeah on any XL1200 Dplate, and waveeater's are an ASAP to-do. I forgot the plug kit on my list of mods, I will do that too.

I'm not 100% sure I'm buying this one, but I will own either an XL1200Ltd, or XLT1200 soon! I've been doing a lot of reading/research for the past couple of months.

[BlitzK]

A rebuild just depends on what is damaged when you tear it apart. I guess the best case senario would be:
Hone cylinders
New pistons, pins, bearings, clips
Gaskets
Be sure to check crank when disassembled

Worst case would be:
Bore/plate
New pistons, pins, bearings, clips
Gaskets and seals
Crank (if needed, check lateral play when disassembled)

OK, lets say its the "best case" senario... What should I expect to pay to have the cyls honed? and the cost of new pistons/parts?

I could/would probably do all the work myself.

Thanks!

[jeffsntx]

Call a local machine shop to see what they would charge to hone your cylinders. I would use nothing but OEM pistons, pins, etc. You can get those prices from boats.net.

[JacRae]

Whatever you do , dont try to hone the cylinders yourself, they are nikasil plated. When I did my top end, I just made sure the cylinders were in good shape & assembled them without honing. Everything worked out great. Just my .02

[salty]

You really cant base a rebuild on how many hours are on the ski. If the carbs have never been rebuilt it is probably well over due for it. Check the compression and if its good run it.

I'm not really seeing a reason for freshening up the top end either. Yamaha's are known for their reliability, and I cannot see a rebuild after 110 hours.... at least not on a stocker.

Now if you had high compression, advanced timming, and full racing conditions type riding for 110 hours I could see a case for a top end rebuild. It may be good up to that point, but for sure you would not make it through a 2nd season and you would have to go into a repair mode at the worst possible time.

If you choose to modify by going with higher compression and advanced timing, it makes sense to "freshening up" the top end. If you did not, then it could potentially fail prematurely at the weakest points.

"Check compression, and if it is good run it" on a stocker sounds like good advice to me. Make your hull mods and you will be happy as it sits.