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  1. #21
    Click avatar for tech links/info K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by MA-Chris View Post
    … this ignition has some sort of limp mode?

    My 13 year old son says you probably need to have the trim motor connected as it has some sort of safety. … I reconnected the broken trim motor, that has a dead short, and the ski started up and took off. Along with it running very well again, the intermittent hot start issue came back as expected. By disconnecting the trim motor, it seems that I enabled some sort of limp mode? Does this make any sense?

    … impressed with the performance and simplicity and are looking for a second.

    The in-tank fuel sender can be ohm checked without removing it from the tank. The dash gauge (or MFD) delivers a very small controlled current through the fuel level sender and senses the variable resistance as the fuel level changes. Voltage into the sender is on the order of 2.5 or 3 volts (thereabouts).

    Fuel sender ohms, when the sender is unplugged from the dash, is 33 ohms at ‘full’ and 240 ohms at ‘empty’. In between fuel levels will have in-between ohm readings.

    These PWC electrically are quite simple. There is no interlock between the trim motor system and the engine ignition system. Something electrically is not right if unplugging the trim motor affects how the engine starts and runs. I would be suspecting a loose/broken wire, corroded or disconnected ground (black wire) or something is mis-wired.

    There are not that many wires inside the electrical box, despite the rats nest appearance. Every wire is color coded and almost all of them connect to other wires of the same color code. And the terminal board tab groupings are also marked with the wire color code.

    Sometimes the terminal rivets become corroded, perhaps on the back side. Or a wire is pressed onto the wrong terminal, just next to where it really should go.

    Wiring diagrams (and a lot of other useful info) are available via my signature links.


  2. #22
    Ugh, ok. Where is the voltage regulator physically located? I wonder if it burned out with the dead short in the trim motor? That could also explain the dead fuel gauge.

    I hate that I can't run the engine on muffs and troubleshoot things in the yard.

    I found this website through your webpage, thank you for all the work!

  3. #23
    Ryan Beernutz's Avatar
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    The regulator is within the electrical box. I won't pretend to understand the LR modules, but your 1996 SL700 has two of them. An LR-52 (yellow stator charge input, red/purple 12V regulated output, orange switched output for trim motor/warning buzzer and red/white switched output for the fuel gauge), and an LR-21 (yellow stator input, red/purple 12V regulated output). Both are in your previously posted picture below. The one in the top left is the LR-52 [4060110] and the top right is the LR-21 [4060108].

    If my thinking is correct, everything should actually be able to be handled by the LR-52, as that is a regulator AND switched outputs. But Keith would probably know better.


    Attachment 487824

  4. #24
    Click avatar for tech links/info K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Beernutz View Post
    The regulator is within the electrical box. I won't pretend to understand the LR modules, but your 1996 SL700 has two of them.
    An LR-52 (yellow stator charge input, red/purple 12V regulated output, orange switched output for trim motor/warning buzzer and red/white switched output for the fuel gauge),
    and an LR-21 (yellow stator input, red/purple 12V regulated output).

    Both are in your previously posted picture below. The one in the top left is the LR-52 [4060110] and the top right is the LR-21 [4060108].

    If my thinking is correct, everything should actually be able to be handled by the LR-52, as that is a …


    LR-52 provides a controlled low voltage output (2.5 volts approximately) for just the fuel level sender and analog dash fuel level gauge.
    LR-52 also provides switched battery voltage to the Orange ‘accessory’ wire.
    Both are outputs are switched on when engine rotation is sensed via the Yellow wire.

    LR-21 provides voltage regulation for battery charging. For voltage regulation purposes the Red/Purple LR wire is an input, not an output.

  5. #25
    Ok, that gives me a bunch of things to check.

    I am going to do the following:
    Verify all the wiring.
    Disconnect the trim motor.
    Disconnect the fuel sender and check the resistance to make sure it is between 30-220 ohms (like a regular fuel gauge)
    Start the engine and check for 2.5v on the red/white wire
    check for 12v on the orange wire

    Make sense?

  6. #26
    Click avatar for tech links/info K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by MA-Chris View Post
    Ok, that gives me a bunch of things to check.

    I am going to do the following:
    Verify all the wiring.
    Disconnect the trim motor.
    Disconnect the fuel sender and check the resistance to make sure it is between 30-220 ohms (like a regular fuel gauge)
    Start the engine and check for 2.5v on the red/white wire
    check for 12v on the orange wire

    Make sense?
    Yep.

    With nothing at all connected (no load) that Orange wire voltage can float around when the engine has recently shut off. With a load connected the Orange wire output should drop to zero right away, then jump up to full battery voltage right away when the engine next begins cranking.

    Be sure to double check all the black wire and ‘ground’ connections inside the electrical box. Including the LR module tabs. Poor grounding of any component can make for misleading diagnostics when chasing problem symptoms.

  7. +1 by:


  8. #27
    I ran a few tests:

    All the wiring looks good, the wires are all connected to the right spots on the circuit board.
    I disconnected the trim motor.
    While running I have 2.5v on the red/white wire and 12v on the orange wire which means to me the regulators work.
    The fuel sender is "bad" it is reading 240 ohms (I assume empty) when there is gas in the tank. I guess the means the magnet may have fallen off? I guess I need to pull apart and take a look. I rigged up a few 1.5v batteries and confirmed that the fuel gauge works great.

    On to the trim motor/bogging issue.
    The wiring diagram does not show the trim switch wiring. I am still not sure why having the trim motor connected makes the ski run better.
    I found nothing that indicated why the engine stumbles when the white/green and white/blue wire is disconnected.
    I did confirm that on the board I have +12v and -12v when pressing the trim switch.

    Chris
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    Last edited by MA-Chris; 09-28-2022 at 10:38 AM.

  9. #28
    casey67's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by MA-Chris View Post

    On to the trim motor/bogging issue.
    The wiring diagram does not show the trim switch wiring. I am still not sure why having the trim motor connected makes the ski run better.
    I found nothing that indicated why the engine stumbles when the white/green and white/blue wire is disconnected.
    I did confirm that on the board I have +12v and -12v when pressing the trim switch.

    Chris
    You already I'd a running starting problem with water in the gas. The water mixes and seperates, causing different amounts of non-burning fuel mixture. Needs to be corrected and retested.

    The floats are known to not float. Test it.
    Search for new #2872860, they were around $17 when dealers sold them

  10. #29
    Quote Originally Posted by casey67 View Post

    The floats are known to not float. Test it.
    Search for new #2872860, they were around $17 when dealers sold them
    Yes, the float is the issue. I took the sender out of the tank and when I flip the sender over, the gauge reads just fine. One more problem solved.

    I wish I could figure out the relation between the shorted trim motor and poor top end performance. It is directly related, but I am not sure why. I am going to wait for my replacement trim motor before troubleshooting that further.

  11. #30
    Click avatar for tech links/info K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by MA-Chris View Post

    The wiring diagram does not show the trim switch wiring. ...
    Confirm the last two digits from the HIN number plate on the rear deck. This is the model year.

    Also confirm the model name on the hull decals - this is SL 700, not SLT, correct?

    Polaris electric Quick Trim is basically wired the same on all years and models. You can crib from the wiring diagram for another similar year/model. I think the wire colors for electric trim stayed the same across the years.

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