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  1. #1

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    Safe to use "Jack Stands" on the topdeck / hull seam?

    2014 FZR, need to do some hull work and cleanup years of scrapes.

    Trying to think of a way to get underneath it easily to work on it. Just me and my garage.

    I have an engine hoist (2 ton).

    I was thinking of getting one of those slings on amazon, then making up some jackstands with sufficient height to get under the topdeck / hull seam area and support it on there? I only assume this is a valid place due to the slings using that area as well.

    Thoughts? Or anyone have a better idea?

    Thanks!


  2. #2
    Click avatar for tech links/info K447's Avatar
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    Whatever you construct to support the hull at height, make sure the thing can withstand sideways, fore-aft and twisting forces.

    The taller the point of contact with the hull (such as under the rub rail) the more broad and sturdy the base must be.

    Be sure the hull support points are well spaced and the overall PWC center of gravity is mid-way between all the support points. Presuming the fuel tank will be near empty, the engine weight will effectively define the ‘middle’ of the overall mass. If you remove the jet pump that would reduce the amount of weight you are lifting, but also shift the center of gravity forward somewhat.

    The rub rail seam is one of the stronger parts of the hull. Whatever you use must reach securely under the rub rail and firmly grip inside the hollow groove behind. That is where the hull strength is. The actual rub rail is just a protective rubber strip.

  3. #3
    Click avatar for tech links/info K447's Avatar
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    Each time we have needed to do repairs under our GP1800 hulls we have used jack stands under the PWC cart.

    This document includes a photo using two Aquacarts AQ-19 to elevate the hull and lift the bow high.
    http://nanoxcel.shorturl.com/

    Linked from these posts regarding NanoXcel hull repair.
    http://greenhulk.net/forums/showthre...=1#post3127672

    http://greenhulk.net/forums/showthre...=1#post2980960


    We sold the Aquacarts and now use Triton PWC carts.
    Use a very similar method using jackstands for hull elevation during our most recent hull bottom repairs.


    Whatever lifting method you use, make very sure the thing cannot shift unexpectedly or topple. It should be able to resist a fairly solid body check into the side. Don’t actually do that, just make it that stable.

    And while lifting it, be careful about weight centering and chances for it to wobble/fall.

  4. #4
    Similar upcoming project here. I have a 2012 SHO that has a wear-hole in the bottom up near where the nose starts to turn upward. Lots of reading to do to figure out how to back that area before doing my repair. Here is what I am going to be buying/using to keep the ski from crushing me while I work on it for a week or so. One of them will be fitted with maybe a custom bent steel tube that mimics the shape of the underside of the nose of the ski...like a 1' long bent tube welded to the stock top steel plate (could probably also just drill the plate and bolt the tube to it if you don't have a welder or buddy with one). The rear stand will probably just get a stick of round pipe that fits left to right decently and bolt or weld that one on (like a sidewalk bolt facing down through the pipe going next through the plate). Then, since I plan to have the bottom of the ski about 2 to 2.5' off the ground to work on my back under it, I will also use my 5k lb sling lift attached to a cherry picker or my 12 volt ceiling hoist in my shop to lift it into place and then give the setup a safety factor if the stands fail for some reason. It wouldn't hurt to take a simple 2x4 or steel L channel and bolt the 2 stands together toward the top after it is set up if your work can stand that in the way of it? When I do my project this Winter I'll post pictures and a materials list with the $ for archive purposes. For now...just waiting on these to go on sale at HFT or for a pair of 20% off anything coupons. I also think this setup will work well for a little bottom touch-up painting from time to time on skis that really need it.
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  5. #5

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    Quote Originally Posted by K447 View Post
    Each time we have needed to do repairs under our GP1800 hulls we have used jack stands under the PWC cart.

    This document includes a photo using two Aquacarts AQ-19 to elevate the hull and lift the bow high.
    http://nanoxcel.shorturl.com/

    Linked from these posts regarding NanoXcel hull repair.
    http://greenhulk.net/forums/showthre...=1#post3127672

    http://greenhulk.net/forums/showthre...=1#post2980960


    We sold the Aquacarts and now use Triton PWC carts.
    Use a very similar method using jackstands for hull elevation during our most recent hull bottom repairs.


    Whatever lifting method you use, make very sure the thing cannot shift unexpectedly or topple. It should be able to resist a fairly solid body check into the side. Don’t actually do that, just make it that stable.

    And while lifting it, be careful about weight centering and chances for it to wobble/fall.
    Thanks for that additional info, i did read up a bit on it, but those links properly cover any questions i had remaining! thanks a bunch.

  6. #6

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    Quote Originally Posted by macGruber View Post
    Similar upcoming project here. I have a 2012 SHO that has a wear-hole in the bottom up near where the nose starts to turn upward. Lots of reading to do to figure out how to back that area before doing my repair. Here is what I am going to be buying/using to keep the ski from crushing me while I work on it for a week or so. One of them will be fitted with maybe a custom bent steel tube that mimics the shape of the underside of the nose of the ski...like a 1' long bent tube welded to the stock top steel plate (could probably also just drill the plate and bolt the tube to it if you don't have a welder or buddy with one). The rear stand will probably just get a stick of round pipe that fits left to right decently and bolt or weld that one on (like a sidewalk bolt facing down through the pipe going next through the plate). Then, since I plan to have the bottom of the ski about 2 to 2.5' off the ground to work on my back under it, I will also use my 5k lb sling lift attached to a cherry picker or my 12 volt ceiling hoist in my shop to lift it into place and then give the setup a safety factor if the stands fail for some reason. It wouldn't hurt to take a simple 2x4 or steel L channel and bolt the 2 stands together toward the top after it is set up if your work can stand that in the way of it? When I do my project this Winter I'll post pictures and a materials list with the $ for archive purposes. For now...just waiting on these to go on sale at HFT or for a pair of 20% off anything coupons. I also think this setup will work well for a little bottom touch-up painting from time to time on skis that really need it.
    Thats essentially what i was thinking, similar idea. I was just going to make a "PWC Cart" and instead of bunks, use 4 posts under the hull seam. I was going to make it out of steel with some caster wheels.

  7. #7

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    2nd option is to lay the whole ski on the ground, maybe find a used mattress or similar to put it on. Then just let it lean to one side and do half hull at a time. Paint will be only crappy part as youll have to blend down the middle i guess, but not a huge deal, its just black paint

  8. #8
    TimeBandit's Avatar
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    Good topic. I have a hull painting job later this year (just waiting on ideal garage temps/ humidity)... meanwhile mulling over how to get the craft suspended (safety). Its on a cart now, so thought about primer'ing the sides 1st, then switch to jack stands under the rub rail lips to primer the bottom. Next, apply the airboat coating to the bottom, once dry, switch back to the cart, to finish the sides with gloss-black. I think this order might work, and due to two types of coatings, no blending effort needed.

  9. #9
    Quote Originally Posted by TimeBandit View Post
    Good topic. I have a hull painting job later this year (just waiting on ideal garage temps/ humidity)... meanwhile mulling over how to get the craft suspended (safety). Its on a cart now, so thought about primer'ing the sides 1st, then switch to jack stands under the rub rail lips to primer the bottom. Next, apply the airboat coating to the bottom, once dry, switch back to the cart, to finish the sides with gloss-black. I think this order might work, and due to two types of coatings, no blending effort needed.
    Your making this to complicated. Put the ski on the floor. Then just tip the ski on its side. DONE!

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by JCIBELLA View Post
    Your making this to complicated. Put the ski on the floor. Then just tip the ski on its side. DONE!
    Trust me... not over complicating. It's about "inches of effort" - aka reducing the amount of travel. To "move" anything, it requires work and effort.
    I don't know what the OP of this thread is dealing with, but for my project, I have a 4-seater hull. Yeah - can you say BIG -n- heavy.
    So far, moving from the trailer to the cart - little effort invested - practically slide laterally across onto the cart !!
    To go from the cart to, say, jack stands, the stands need only be an inch higher, at most. Four wood built stands: Step A, teeter-totter the bow up 1" onto left/right jacks. Step B, lift the aft onto 2 more left/right stands. Given that we'd be lifting only half the hull at any given point and time AND just by a mere inch, sounds totally do'able by two guys. Step C, slide cart out of the way, & paint the bottom. Step D & E, reverse process back to cart - going down an inch, easy-peasy.

    So you're saying go to the floor?? From the cart (where it is sitting now) to getting it on the floor, is going to be roughly 20" of straight downward travel. Likely can't do half the hull at a time, so talking the whole dang thing would need suspended/supported. Some type of lift hoist would be then needed (not to mention what is going to support that equipment - a tree, garage rafters - OMG no) to travel vertically to the floor. Oh, then once the "job" is done, we got to the travel back up them 20 inches to the cart again.

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