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  1. #1

    Cool Turbo Project with low boost 18-19 psi

    Hello legends , I would like to going turbo with my RXT 260 m.y 2010 after the last disaster with the supercharger . Long story short I would like to make a mild setup with a breeze boost of 18-19 psi .

    I would like to understand what would be the right turbo for me .
    What I'm looking for is a ball bearing type fast spool with internal waste gate . I'm not a turbo specialist and I would like to know what is best in your opinion .

    Do you also think that a watercooling of the turbine housing is mandatory @ that boost or can I just put a thermal cover ?

    Thank you in advance !


  2. #2
    1tommygunner1927's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jetplane View Post
    Hello legends , I would like to going turbo with my RXT 260 m.y 2010 after the last disaster with the supercharger . Long story short I would like to make a mild setup with a breeze boost of 18-19 psi .

    I would like to understand what would be the right turbo for me .
    What I'm looking for is a ball bearing type fast spool with internal waste gate . I'm not a turbo specialist and I would like to know what is best in your opinion .

    Do you also think that a watercooling of the turbine housing is mandatory @ that boost or can I just put a thermal cover ?

    Thank you in advance !
    Thats almost like asking what oil to use.....LOL

    My turbo is a Borg Warner 67/58. I chose it because it does not need a BOV which makes plumbing it easier, and utilizes an internal wastegate, and a ball bearing center section (should be water cooled if using the iron center section). An aluminum center section is available. The turbine housing should be watercooled, IMO. It helps keep under seat temps cooler.

    The BW 67/58 turbo has zero lag......the holeshot is instant, like right now.
    This turbo is supplied with a medium wastegate actuator for maximum boost of 20 psi.....so that should meet your needs. Keep in mind the stock MAP sensor is nearly done at 20+ psi. If you max it out, the ECU cuts fuel.

    When purchasing any turbo for a pwc, be sure it has a Vband turbine housing as all up pipes are Vband and watercooled, same for downpipes.

  3. #3
    mittens's Avatar
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    The iron center on a 6758 does not require water. The aluminum does. Just small correction.

  4. #4
    Quote Originally Posted by 1tommygunner1927 View Post
    Thats almost like asking what oil to use.....LOL

    My turbo is a Borg Warner 67/58. I chose it because it does not need a BOV which makes plumbing it easier, and utilizes an internal wastegate, and a ball bearing center section (should be water cooled if using the iron center section). An aluminum center section is available. The turbine housing should be watercooled, IMO. It helps keep under seat temps cooler.

    The BW 67/58 turbo has zero lag......the holeshot is instant, like right now.
    This turbo is supplied with a medium wastegate actuator for maximum boost of 20 psi.....so that should meet your needs. Keep in mind the stock MAP sensor is nearly done at 20+ psi. If you max it out, the ECU cuts fuel.

    When purchasing any turbo for a pwc, be sure it has a Vband turbine housing as all up pipes are Vband and watercooled, same for downpipes.
    Thank you mates and what about efr 6258?

    What do you think ?

  5. #5
    Another question mates , may I stay with closed loop and keep my Rotax racing thermostat ?

    In my before setup with 135+3 300 superchager kit , rapidcam and closed loop @8800 the temps were super good.

    With Turbo I would like to stay under 8800 rpm .

    What do you think ? May I keep my closed loop ?

    I don't want a super fast setup , I just need a reliable setup for ocean riding .....

    Thank you for your imputs

  6. #6
    Orlando Shark's Avatar
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    I would highly recommend the kit in the classifieds. Will save you lots of time and headaches and $$.

    http://greenhulk.net/forums/showthread.php?t=298573

    You can stay closed loop, just run your lines: Intercooler>Front of exhaust manifold>turbo

    If you want to keep rpm’s at 8800, you can either lower boost or increase prop pitch.

  7. #7
    Quote Originally Posted by Shark View Post
    I would highly recommend the kit in the classifieds. Will save you lots of time and headaches and $$.

    http://greenhulk.net/forums/showthread.php?t=298573

    You can stay closed loop, just run your lines: Intercooler>Front of exhaust manifold>turbo

    If you want to keep rpm’s at 8800, you can either lower boost or increase prop pitch.
    Ok I'm waiting his reply , do you think that flange can resist on ocean riding waves jumping ?

    Thank you !

  8. #8
    Orlando Shark's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jetplane View Post
    Ok I'm waiting his reply , do you think that flange can resist on ocean riding waves jumping ?

    Thank you !
    I can’t comment for the GFR kits. Never had any issues I was aware on the Shark kits. These kits are water jacketed which makes them stronger and the exhaust and intercooler also hold some of the weight of the turbo.

    If you are doing heavy wave jumping, I would recommend fabricating some type of bracket to help hold the turbo. It’s much easier to fab a bracket then a complete turbo kit.

  9. #9
    Do you know where to buy the shark kit ?

  10. #10
    1tommygunner1927's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mittens View Post
    The iron center on a 6758 does not require water. The aluminum does. Just small correction.
    Thanks for the correction, I wasn't clear enough in my comment. BW recommends the iron center section be watercooler, the aluminum center section must be watercooled.

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