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  1. #31
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    Quote Originally Posted by 1tommygunner1927 View Post
    I'm thinking your impeller pitch is wrong for both reduction nozzles.
    Agreed. I still have the loopy idle. 1600-2200rpm bouncing.

    Having 9mm spacers and 87mm nozzle I am seeing same 70mph at 8300rpm. I will add some pitch back to the prop.

    When tuning pump is there an order I should follow?

    Pitch/Nozzle/Cone?


  2. #32
    1tommygunner1927's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 1tommygunner1927 View Post
    I'm thinking your impeller pitch is wrong for both reduction nozzles.
    Quote Originally Posted by not2fast View Post
    Agreed. I still have the loopy idle. 1600-2200rpm bouncing.

    Having 9mm spacers and 87mm nozzle I am seeing same 70mph at 8300rpm. I will add some pitch back to the prop.

    When tuning pump is there an order I should follow?

    Pitch/Nozzle/Cone?


    First, what is your target rpm range? Have you upgraded the valve train? If not, the GH store has SuperTech springs/retainers available. With stock internals, limit rpm to under 9K.

    I recommend having 2 pumps (both with 159mm wear rings): One for summer, one for fall/spring/winter with each having impellers Pitched for targeted rpm. Use the same nozzle for both pumps 83 or 87. Fine tune rpm with L13 cone and spacers. WARNING: the S3 skis will pump stuff around 82-84 mph.

    Weather conditions change every day and on the same day, morning and afternoon. We have no control over it. Humidity and barometric pressure differences will affect rpm/speed. Document weather conditions, rpm/speed when testing any one modification. Over time you'll see a pattern develop as to what works or not and how weather makes a difference.

    Lastly, do not leave the storage bucket in place, remove it! You'll gain a few more rpm/speed.

  3. #33
    not2fast's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 1tommygunner1927 View Post
    First, what is your target rpm range? Have you upgraded the valve train? If not, the GH store has SuperTech springs/retainers available. With stock internals, limit rpm to under 9K.

    I recommend having 2 pumps (both with 159mm wear rings): One for summer, one for fall/spring/winter with each having impellers Pitched for targeted rpm. Use the same nozzle for both pumps 83 or 87. Fine tune rpm with L13 cone and spacers. WARNING: the S3 skis will pump stuff around 82-84 mph.

    Weather conditions change every day and on the same day, morning and afternoon. We have no control over it. Humidity and barometric pressure differences will affect rpm/speed. Document weather conditions, rpm/speed when testing any one modification. Over time you'll see a pattern develop as to what works or not and how weather makes a difference.

    Lastly, do not leave the storage bucket in place, remove it! You'll gain a few more rpm/speed.
    Not looking for anything drastic. I was hoping for 72-74mph at 8200-8300RPM like Riva Stage 2 build states. (no retainers, RFPR, or injectors)

    This thing started off being same speed as my 2010 RXT 215 after all of the upgrades. Looks like I have been chasing pump setup when it was fuel issue.

    I want to be a quick as possible 0-60 with very little cavitation. I am using it as a bridge to a new Kawasaki Ultra when they add navigation maps and/or R version.

    (Using RAM mount with old phone for Navionics now)

  4. #34
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    Quote Originally Posted by not2fast View Post
    Not looking for anything drastic. I was hoping for 72-74mph at 8200-8300RPM like Riva Stage 2 build states. (no retainers, RFPR, or injectors)

    This thing started off being same speed as my 2010 RXT 215 after all of the upgrades. Looks like I have been chasing pump setup when it was fuel issue.

    I want to be a quick as possible 0-60 with very little cavitation. I am using it as a bridge to a new Kawasaki Ultra when they add navigation maps and/or R version.

    (Using RAM mount with old phone for Navionics now)
    Do you have access to a stock RXT-X impeller? If so, install it, use the stock reduction nozzle (87mm) and stock tail cone. The GH store has an improved pump seal for your specific model.

    Stock RXT impeller: 10/21 pitch
    Stock RXT-X impeller: 14/25 pitch

    The standard Solas impeller for an RXT-X is 15/22.
    Last edited by 1tommygunner1927; 08-11-2022 at 12:10 PM.

  5. #35
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    Quote Originally Posted by 1tommygunner1927 View Post
    Do you have access to a stock RXT-X impeller? If so, install it, use the stock reduction nozzle (87mm) and stock tail cone. The GH store has an improved pump seal for your specific model.

    Stock RXT impeller: 10/21 pitch
    Stock RXT-X impeller: 14/25 pitch

    The standard Solas impeller for an RXT-X is 15/22.
    I don't. I only have the stock RXT which when it was in it would cavitate like crazy. I pitched the Solas down to 15/19 like RIVA had listed on their website. Sounds like I need more pitch to get speed back. I still need to figure out the idling issue. I decided to replace the whole fuel assembly. The hard starts are gone, but still surges a bit. Almost like a vacuum leak. I will have to keep look into that.

  6. #36
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    Quote Originally Posted by not2fast View Post
    I don't. I only have the stock RXT which when it was in it would cavitate like crazy. I pitched the Solas down to 15/19 like RIVA had listed on their website. Sounds like I need more pitch to get speed back. I still need to figure out the idling issue. I decided to replace the whole fuel assembly. The hard starts are gone, but still surges a bit. Almost like a vacuum leak. I will have to keep look into that.
    Some things to do before changing anything else:

    Remove injectors for professional cleaning.

    Check supercharger slip.....set it slightly higher at 10 ft/lbs to 12 ft/lbs. BTW, how many hours on on this charger? It should be completely rebuilt every 100 hours or 2 years, which come first.

    If you have a vacuum gauge check for a vacuum reading at each intake manifold runner nipple. There should be no readings. Spray ether around the intake manifold....idle will be affected if its cracked.

  7. #37
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    Quote Originally Posted by 1tommygunner1927 View Post
    Some things to do before changing anything else:

    Remove injectors for professional cleaning.

    Check supercharger slip.....set it slightly higher at 10 ft/lbs to 12 ft/lbs. BTW, how many hours on on this charger? It should be completely rebuilt every 100 hours or 2 years, which come first.

    If you have a vacuum gauge check for a vacuum reading at each intake manifold runner nipple. There should be no readings. Spray ether around the intake manifold....idle will be affected if its cracked.

    I bought a brand new factory X-Charger unit and it has less then 10 hours on it. I didn't check the slip. It is making power now that I changed Fuel Assembly, Injectors, and Plugs. It is just getting it to idle. Before that it sat at 1700rpm. So I lean towards something I changed.

    I will try looking for leaks by spraying carb cleaner and if nothing put back in old injectors to see what is happening.

  8. #38
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    No leaks found. It starts right up. Then stabilizes at 1700rpm for about 10 seconds and then starts surging after that.

  9. #39
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    Try replacing your idle bypass valve that is on your throttle body. Might be the cause of your idle surging.

    Can also be a failing fuel pump or clogged injectors.

  10. #40
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    Quote Originally Posted by Shark View Post
    Try replacing your idle bypass valve that is on your throttle body. Might be the cause of your idle surging.

    Can also be a failing fuel pump or clogged injectors.
    This model doesn't have an idle bypass valve like the older models.

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