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  1. #1
    tjoiner1986's Avatar
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    Question Teej Buys a Jet Ski: 2000 Kawasaki 1100 STX DI

    So... I just bought my first jet ski.

    $700 for the ski, a stand/cradle, and a factory service manual plus another $100 for the seller to drive an hour, help me unload it, and drive the hour back. I don't have a trailer hitch on my Element (yet - I have the hitch but need to get some bumper/frame damage to my car repaired before I can install it) otherwise I would have gotten it myself. He's going to deliver it tomorrow. I've probably gotten in over my head but that's just what I do.

    The first order of business is to diagnose the known issue. The engine turns over but does not start. Here's a video the seller sent me earlier today.

    https://youtube.com/shorts/5zAuP-rFqRk?feature=share

    Thanks in advance for the help everyone!
    Last edited by tjoiner1986; 06-20-2022 at 08:20 AM.

  2. #2
    steve45's Avatar
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    When you say 'no ignition' that isn't necessarily the case. You could have no fuel and get the same result. Since the EMM was repaired, there's a reasonable chance that the fuel system is plugged up.

    Remove the flame arrestor and put a teaspoon of fuel into each throttle body and try it.

    Don't crank it so long or you'll be replacing the starter sooner than necessary. Just bump the starter and let the fuel pump run, when it stops, bump it again. Do this a few times to prime the fuel system, then try starting it. If it fires when you pour gasoline into it, then you need to start looking at the fuel pump, filters, injectors, etc.


  3. #3
    tjoiner1986's Avatar
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    Yeah, after watching this video and giving it some thought I started to wonder if it's a fuel system issue and not that there is no spark as the seller says/thinks.

    I'm eager to tear into this. Sadly, it's Sunday and the local marine/powersport shops are closed so I can't get parts if needed.

    Ideally, I'd like to drain the fuel and oil and refill both so I know I've got fresh fluids, what kind of oil and gas is in there, and that there's no water or other contaminants.

  4. #4
    tjoiner1986's Avatar
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    Talking It's here! It's here!

    Quote Originally Posted by steve45 View Post
    When you say 'no ignition' that isn't necessarily the case. You could have no fuel and get the same result. Since the EMM was repaired, there's a reasonable chance that the fuel system is plugged up.

    Remove the flame arrestor and put a teaspoon of fuel into each throttle body and try it.

    Don't crank it so long or you'll be replacing the starter sooner than necessary. Just bump the starter and let the fuel pump run, when it stops, bump it again. Do this a few times to prime the fuel system, then try starting it. If it fires when you pour gasoline into it, then you need to start looking at the fuel pump, filters, injectors, etc.
    Per your suggestion, I splashed a bit of fuel (roughly a teaspoon) into each throttle body. I wasn't sure if I needed to reassemble the flame arrestor so I did anyway just to be safe. Sure enough, it acted like it wanted to fire up. I got a bit of exhaust out the back as well as a bit of water (remnants in the system I assume).

    I'm going to repeat the process again now.

    Edit: Round 2 fired up and stayed running. I let it go maybe 5 seconds before the storage unit filled with exhaust/smoke and I pulled the Killswitch.

    Also... Pretty sure the gauge cluster is dead. One of the rubber buttons was torn so I pulled the cluster out, turned it on its end, and a lot of rust-colored water poured out. Enough too pool in the footwell. See the photo below.

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    Last edited by tjoiner1986; 05-29-2022 at 08:40 PM.

  5. #5
    steve45's Avatar
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    A new replacement display is almost $1200. There are 2 on Ebay right now for $550, but neither one shows it actually working. One has a tear in the cover membrane, which will let water in. I would not by a display unless the sell can post a photo of it working (easy to do with a 12 volt battery and 3 jumper wires) or he guarantees that it will work.

    After that, it's time to tear into the fuel system...

  6. #6
    tjoiner1986's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by steve45 View Post
    A new replacement display is almost $1200. There are 2 on Ebay right now for $550, but neither one shows it actually working. One has a tear in the cover membrane, which will let water in. I would not by a display unless the sell can post a photo of it working (easy to do with a 12 volt battery and 3 jumper wires) or he guarantees that it will work.

    After that, it's time to tear into the fuel system...
    Yeah, once I realized the MFD was more than likely toast, first thing I did was look up a replacement because I'm going to want to know fuel and oil levels and all the other info while riding. Had I known used ones were $500, I probably would have passed on this ski. But hey, live and learn. A new MFD can be my Christmas gift to myself this year.

    As for the fuel system, I messaged the seller asking again what all he replaced. He told me when he was delivering the ski but my memory isn't great and I quickly forgot. Here's what he told me:

    ...fuel pump, fuel filter, EMM rebuilt, starter solenoid, battery, spark plugs. I think that's it.
    So if we assume the pump and filter are still good, what's left? Injectors?

    I checked the fuel filter to make sure it was installed in the right direction -- fuel tank is going to the "IN" and the "OUT" is going to the engine.

    Also, I saw the two oil likes that broke loose (circled in the photo below). Neither have hose clamps on them so I'll need to hit up O'Reilly to see if they have any tiny stainless clamps. One of the lines is split where it meets the engine. The other is simply loose and slides off the fitting. All the lines feel rather stiff. Perhaps it's time to replace them?

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    Last edited by tjoiner1986; 05-29-2022 at 04:58 PM.

  7. #7
    steve45's Avatar
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    Yes, those oil lines MUST be replaced. Hopefully that didn't cause major engine damage. Use Tygon hose, 1/8" in ID. Secure all the hoses with .025" stainless steel safety wire, which you can get from a mechanic at most any small airport. Buy him a Coke and he'll feel like he made out like a bandit. 10 feet will last you a long time. http://greenhulk.net/forums/showthread.php?t=291797 That thing in the middle of the hose is a one way valve. Be sure to install it the correct way. I think it will have an arrow on it pointing toward the engine, at least the Yamahas do. When you put the hoses on, you should pre-fill them with an infant oral syringe, available at any pharmacy.

    If he replaced the fuel pump, it should have had a new filter sock on it, assuming that he installed a new pump. Those are expensive, so he may have bought a used pump, which may need a new sock. He might have just replaced the pump motor itself, so you'll need to ask him exactly what he replaced. There is a rubber hose that connects to the motor that can leak, reducing pump pressure.

    Sounds like he replaced the high pressure filter, which is the black canister about 3 inches in diameter. That's good. If it hasn't been run for a while, it's very likely that the gas tank has a lot of gooey, brown sediment in it that forms when the gas deteriorates (it might also have water in the tank). About the only way to check that is with an inspection camera going through the filler port, or by pulling the fuel pump out. If there is gum in the tank, odds are that the filter sock on the pump is plugged. Of course, the injectors can also be plugged up with gum. Another problem on that model is the plastic fittings in the fuel rails cracking and leaking. If this were the cause of your problem, you'd probably see gasoline spraying out around the injectors.

    I have not had the pleasure of working on one of those engines. I believe that the injectors are matched to the EMM, and may be matched to the specific cylinder. LakeSide could tell you. In the meantime, don't mix them up!

    Lastly, for now, check your fuel filler cap. Those things crack and allow water to enter the tank. You can buy a metal replacement cap on Ebay. You'll need to supply a gasket for it, and also drill a hole in it to attach the chain so you don't drop it in the water.

  8. #8
    tjoiner1986's Avatar
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    Thumbs up If the MFD wasn't trashed before, it is now.

    10 feet of Tygon (1/8" ID / 1/4" OD) will be here Wednesday.

    So will a small spool of .032" stainless steel wire.

    The fuel cap is in good shape but is missing the chain.

    I gave everything a good cleaning, inside and out, with citrus degreaser. Now it doesn't have dirt and bird poop on it and the engine compartment smells like oranges. I even got the grime off the oil and fuel tanks and the inside of the hull.

    I removed the MFD. Anyone want to know what the insides look like? I figured since it was already toast there was no real harm in a little exploration. The smell of ozone (a similar smell to chlorine) told me with certainty there was some component failure. This was a big, big disappointment because it adds at least $500 to the project. I'll keep an eye out for a parted out STX with a good display.

    After a couple trips to Lowe's (degreaser & replacement stainless screws), a trip to Harbor Freight (gas can & compression tester), and an Amazon order (Tygon & wire), I'm now about $100 invested plus the initial $800 for the ski.









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    Last edited by tjoiner1986; 05-29-2022 at 09:02 PM.

  9. #9
    steve45's Avatar
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    Oh, well...

    Put the gas cap on and tighten it, then look at the top for cracks.

  10. #10
    Moderator HiPeRcO's Avatar
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    "Since the EMM was repaired..." If you will allow me, not all EMM repairs are done equally well...

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