Help needed: impeller housing removal issue on FX Cruiser

[ecarca]

Hi,

I am installing a solas impeller on my 2013 FX Cruiser SHO (of course it comes from Riva through Jerry). At the same time, I am throwing in a new OEM housing impeller, which was a good idea because there is clearly a high point inside the existing one and the impeller was probably rubbing it (surely because of the stainless steel/aluminium combo known issue).

I wrote "am installing" because I couldn't finish today. The first stages of removal went relatively well; except for these 2 bolts (out of 6) holding the rubber cover that were replaced by a previous owner and weren't stainless steel. They were completely rusted and when I managed to turn them they snapped. I will try to drill them, otherwise I'll probably forget the rubber cover. Then that bolt holding the nozzle for steering, the lower nut went fine but when I tried to unbolt it from the top, it snapped... It's been used for 10 years in saltwater, so I accept my fate, the bolt holding the reverse bucket to the cable broke last week, cable is almost new, bolt wasn't obviously

Then i removed the pump and impeller, using the pry points, it went well and was easy.

Now let's get to the issue. I went for the impeller housing, removed the 5 bolts (4 X 14 and 1 X10 if memory serves) and then........ Nothing! That stuff is there, holding on its own. There are no pry points there, nothing that I can see would be useful to pull it and I definitely didn't want to try to pry it from the inside with a srewdriver. Didn't have my mallet with me either... I tried a bit but wouldn't want to damage anything, whatever it needs to go.

I tried to find threads, usually it seems people have issues removing the pump which was fine for me. What's next? I will try the propane torch, but how could I pull that thing without damaging anything? I thought about putting the bolts back in and use them as a lever or a place to hammer but it sounds like a really bad idea. Please share your tricks!

Still had time to replace the hood strut, the second trunk lock, about 6 or 7 hose clamps by stainless steel ones and put the free flow exhaust but I was planning to be done with the jet pump. Then I left the shipyard and went to grab my car and had a flat Not my day LOL

Thank you

[K447]

Can you post a few clear photos of the removed pump?
Showing the problem area

Last FX SHO jet pump I worked on, I did not have a huge battle getting to the impeller. But I forget exactly how the wear ring section separated from the pump stator section

[KEYZBUM]

2 ways
Bolt the stator section back on.(thats the main pump that holds the impeller)
Then you can use a big pry bar between side of pump area and pump..
OR remove ride plate , lay underneath ski , then use short heavy mallet to knock liner/housing off..

[ecarca]

Can you post a few clear photos of the removed pump?
Showing the problem area

Last FX SHO jet pump I worked on, I did not have a huge battle getting to the impeller. But I forget exactly how the wear ring section separated from the pump stator section

The pump and impeller came up fine, out of the wear ring. Wear ring still in place, with the transom plate. Except it's unbolted and won't come off.

Looks like this:

[ecarca]

2 ways
Bolt the stator section back on.(thats the main pump that holds the impeller)
Then you can use a big pry bar between side of pump area and pump..
OR remove ride plate , lay underneath ski , then use short heavy mallet to knock liner/housing off..

Ride plate is already off since I am changing it for a SVHO one, the cut is about twice the size in the SVHO one. Found a second hand one in Japan that got here in 3 days. Talking about which, I also didn't manage (yet) to remove the 4 speed wheel bolts... Not sure what to do with these, stuck and no screwdriver I tried will do the job.

I wanted to try the mallet, yes. Will try this first, the one I have is not super heavy but could do. I could hammer it out as well, I'll throw the part anyways, I just don't want to damage anything around it.

So if I put the pump back in, I like this idea as a plan B, where would I pry? Use the hull area to put my big pry bar and grab the pump somewhere, maybe at the strainer area or if I don't screw it in completely, somewhere in between the impeller housing and the pump?

Thanks!

[K447]

I have in the past used a crowbar shaped tool, like this.



Hook behind the wear ring casting at the bolt flange areas. Gentle ‘persuasion’ prying forward at each flange, working around the perimeter.

… Wear ring still in place, with the transom plate. Except it's unbolted and won't come off.

Looks like this:

[K447]

… remove the 4 speed wheel bolts... Not sure what to do with these, stuck and no screwdriver I tried will do the job. …

Impact screwdriver should turn those screws.
The type powered by a hand held hammer, not a power tool.



http://greenhulk.net/forums/showthre...l=1#post694655

[ecarca]

Impact screwdriver should turn those screws.
The type powered by a hand held hammer, not a power tool.

http://greenhulk.net/forums/showthre...l=1#post694655

Thank you, I don't have the crowbar or the impact screw driver in my toolbox. I'll try to find these in local shops.

[ecarca]

Update: mallet technique failed. This thing doesn't move at all

[K447]

Update: mallet technique failed. This thing doesn't move at all

In my crowbar post I mentioned ‘gentle’.

I probably should have said start gentle, then increment towards increased efforts, perhaps nearing violence.

These things can become properly corroded in place and require some real effort and force to dislodge.

Applying repeated doses of corrosion penetrant can help. PB Blaster, Kroil, strong products of that nature.

Eventually if it simply will not budge even with ‘cold’ crowbar prying leverage, torch heat applied around the seam/joint might help crack the corrosion bond. Followed by more crowbar prying.

An alternate approach is to remove the transom plate from the hull, complete with the stuck wear ring. Take it to a machinist shop where they will have the types of specialist tools and metalworking knowledge to separate the pieces.