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  1. #1

    new 2000 Polaris Genesis owner

    Hello All.

    My name is Daron from NC. I just purchased my first ski and I am working to get it running. I purchased a service manual for it right off and have been going through the diagnostics and maintenance. I have already rebuilt the carbs and tested the pop-off pressures and changed out those old fuel lines.

    I have been looking through and reading of-course on the forum along with the First things to do webpage K447 posted(thanks so much).

    I am dealing with a no spark issue and from what I can tell so far I might need a Stator. I still need to do the 9v battery testing. I have done some of the OHM testing as well and so far those specs look good. I have a Fluke 88v automotive meter from working on my project cars for many years and it has come in handy for sure.

    Oh. yeah. I got a brand new odyssey pc625 battery based on reading here. So plenty of voltage on cranking!

    I will update you all as I continue working on trying to get her running right. She has 137 hours and for her age looks real nice. Can't wait to hit the water.

    Good day all.
    -D


  2. #2
    casey67's Avatar
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    Welcome to GreenHulk and Congrats !

    The MOST important test is how much voltage to the CDI on red with purple stripe wire, while cranking.




    The CDI absolutely needs the correct voltage and there are a few things that can disrupt that.

  3. #3
    Ryan Beernutz's Avatar
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    The Gen III ignition (the only one 1200s came with) is pretty stout. Typical failures are the CDI, and not usually the stator. Keep an eye on eBay as they can sometimes be had for less than $400, but when I needed one for my 2001 Virage TX, I ended buying a new one. SBT sells brand new genuine PVL CDIs for about $450, so don't get suckered into buying a used one for more than that.

  4. #4
    Quote Originally Posted by casey67 View Post
    Welcome to GreenHulk and Congrats !

    The MOST important test is how much voltage to the CDI on red with purple stripe wire, while cranking.




    The CDI absolutely needs the correct voltage and there are a few things that can disrupt that.
    I will definitely check that spec when I get home from being gone this weekend.

    I did however have 8-9v on the brown CDI wire going to the stator when I checked it.

  5. #5
    Quote Originally Posted by Beernutz View Post
    The Gen III ignition (the only one 1200s came with) is pretty stout. Typical failures are the CDI, and not usually the stator. Keep an eye on eBay as they can sometimes be had for less than $400, but when I needed one for my 2001 Virage TX, I ended buying a new one. SBT sells brand new genuine PVL CDIs for about $450, so don't get suckered into buying a used one for more than that.
    In all the reading I have done I have seen where this gen III ign. Is very good. I'll be sure and check SBT for that CDI for sure.

    Thanks.

  6. #6
    I will say that when I first bought the ski it would start and run for about 10 seconds and then would die and not restart. After that I started in on rebuilding the carbs. They were leaking fuel from old gaskets.

    I read about moving the red purple wire for the cdi to the orange terminal. I will be trying that at some point as well once I check the power on the red purple wire while cranking.
    Last edited by DaronKC; 05-07-2022 at 08:22 AM.

  7. #7
    casey67's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by DaronKC View Post

    I did however have 8-9v on the brown CDI wire going to the stator when I checked it.
    Quote Originally Posted by DaronKC View Post
    I will say that when I first bought the ski it would start and run for about 10 seconds and then would die and not restart. .

    I read about moving the red purple wire for the cdi to the orange terminal. I will be trying that at some point as well once I check the power on the red purple wire while cranking.
    Deffinetly finish the stator tests.
    You will like to see 8.2v or so ( and above) on the brown wire while cranking- thats a really good sign, the most common CDI failure is low voltage on the brown wire.

    Yeah, the red/pur wire is constant 12v power. The CDI's would get confused and not "turn On". So Polaris found that moving the CDI power wire to the Orange would "reset" the CDI. When CDI gets stuck,it would start on first try but not on second try. When stuck OFF, it would not send power on the brown wire on that second try, that mostly happened after the engine was warm, causing "warm-no restart" (Orange wires are switched 12v power when cranking/running, the LR module turns that on/off, and again real important that the LR is actually sending around 11v when cranking on orange)

    After you have those tests completed, disconnect the blk/yel wire from the CDI. That is the "kill" wire to shut off the engine.
    Be prepared IF the engine actually starts.

  8. #8
    Quote Originally Posted by casey67 View Post
    Welcome to GreenHulk and Congrats !

    The MOST important test is how much voltage to the CDI on red with purple stripe wire, while cranking.




    The CDI absolutely needs the correct voltage and there are a few things that can disrupt that.
    At this time I am seeing 10.7-10.8v on red/purple on the cdi side of the red/purple Y connector.
    I think my battery might be getting a little low since I've been cranking it a good bit during testing. I picked up a 800mv trickle charger that's for AGM batteries and have it charging now. Still gotta do my stator ohm test and break out the 9v battery.

    Thanks
    Last edited by DaronKC; 05-09-2022 at 09:47 PM.

  9. #9
    After charging the battery I now have 11v on red/purple to cdi while cranking. No spark/start though. I went ahead and did some basic stator testing. Ohm' d out good to spec from service manual. I did do ohm testing on the coil itself from black/white to each blue, green, then red wire. specs says .35 ohms I was getting .70 on all 3. Battery disconnected but I didn't disconnect those wires from the cdi Not sure if this tells me the coil is bad or not. Next step it seems is the 9v battery test but I am getting 8-9v consistently on the brown wire coming out of cdi. I am wondering now if there is a wiring issue inside the stator cover that I cant see. like the brown wire is broken past the stator housing wire grommet. I saw a video online of one polaris ski that the wiring from stator got to close to flywheel.

    Is there a way to see if the coil is being "feed" the signal from the cdi? It's like 100s of volts that go to each coil down the blue, green, red wires?

  10. #10
    casey67's Avatar
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    The 9v battery test of the stator verifies all 3 sensors of the stator are working/signaling the CDI. The brown stator wire is included in that test.

    The ignition coil DOES NOT use red-green-blue wires, those are stator wires.

    The ignition coil test is blk/wht to yel/brn-blk/grn-blk/blu.
    What is your exact reading on brown when cranking ?

    Yes, next test (after stator tests) and correct voltage on brown will be CDI output to the ignition coil wires listed above while cranking. When cranking voltage will be around 100v and rise to 300v when running.

    If no output.
    AGAIN disconnect blk/yel wire from CDI.


    Yeah-youtube. There is a bracket that keeps the stator wires away from the flywheel. Someone needs to get under the cover and do something wrong. Unless altered, the Polaris stator harness doesn't have enough slack to rub flywheel.

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