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  1. #11

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    Now iam a little bit concerned, grinded down to a leafthin shell, dont want to go thru since the SMC bracket xor the axle is there and its kinda hard to have somthing as a stopper on the inside then.

    But my concern is that its oil comming from the cracks now. Its is 99%solid, but the last cracs that is left will seep out oil... but maybe its just to whipe it clean just before applying epoxi and go for it.
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  2. #12
    steve45's Avatar
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    I don't think epoxy is going to stick to oil.

  3. #13
    My name is Sean and I am addicted to STXs smokeysevin's Avatar
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    It may be worth flipping the hull back over and REALLY cleaning it out with degreaser and acetone. Like Steve said, the glass won't stick properly if you don't get it clean. Once that is done, chip/grind out as much of the contaminated glass as possible and wipe the whole thing back again with acetone. The central structure for the thru hull bearing is pretty rigid, I wouldn't worry too much about grinding into it, you are still a ways away from the metal/sealing/mounting bits.

    Sean

  4. #14

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    Dont really know what iam up to, but 4layers donne, now wait 24h until 3 or 4 more.
    Somthing is happening

    Questuon:gps, what do you have and where have u put it? These stx15 doesnt really have any good place for a chartplotter
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  5. #15
    steve45's Avatar
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    I put 13 or 14 on my SS Xi hull.

  6. #16
    My name is Sean and I am addicted to STXs smokeysevin's Avatar
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    It really depends on what kind of glass you use and the resin. I used 1208 biax on my js which builds up quicker since its basically cloth-mat-cloth stitched into a single layer.

    What type of glass are you using and what kind of resin?

    Sean

  7. #17

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    Thats acually a good question what iam using. I went to the painter here close by who has skills and knowledge of epoxy and fiberglass, so i ended up with 2 jars epoxy and hardener, and sheet of (dont know whats it called)but the woven fabric lookalike fiberglass. He said do 4 layers, wait 24h do 3 more or 4 if u wish. So now its about 10 layers. Just finished up. It would be great to have acuple more layers to build height, but i think i just will leave it and go wild with the fiberglass bondo(?)
    It is epoxy with minimum 8 layers, it should be enough? I will see for sure

  8. #18
    My name is Sean and I am addicted to STXs smokeysevin's Avatar
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    Find out the resin type and confirm it is actually epoxy and not polyester. Epoxy will stick, poly will pull off.

    Don't use bondo. Its not rated for water even under paint. Lookup fairing compound or consider making your own using epoxy resin and fillers like talc, microballoons, or other powders. Don't use cabosil on this or you will be sanding for months. Kawi uses gel coat on the bottom, so once you get close to the shape, you need to use gel coat to get the final shape.

    The kawasaki hulls are pretty beefy on the bottom, shoot for 3/8"-3/4" thick on the keel.

    Sean

  9. #19

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    It is epoxy. Sure about that.
    Bondo is probaly wrong word, but we have a fiberglass bondolike thing, it is boat aproved stuff.
    Topcoat/gelcote, iam not a big fan of that when it comes to repairwork, it will be a pain to get it to what it suposed to be. I will probably paint with "polyurethan 2k" paint, its waterproof paint. Althou, this machine will be on a trailer every night...

    Maybe iam stupid, but iam reading every post and do evaluations after each reply, tomorrow i need to find more fiberglass mat, need to build more height. Aparently mine was 170gram/m2, tomorrow i will get 380g/m2... that will build thikness...

    Lerning every day here...

    Still need to fugure out how the engine and all shall be placed. There are not that much under there, BUT all screwes came in the same box and the if for the whole jet assy inc the "showel"

    Sorry about my bad english, but these terms is not what iam used to. Paint and plastic material... not everyday words

  10. #20

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    Changed planns. Will do the touchup with epoxy and microbaloons... i think... is it sturdy enough? Can i mix it that sturdy so i can "build" the contours along the intake? Or will it be like icecram, float away before it cures?


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