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  1. #1

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    Resuscitating 2001 GTX: First few steps?

    Hi - new forum member. Looking for some triage steps, a short-list of steps to perform to check for signs of life. The first 5 pages of the forum had many good hits on people who were reviving old Seadoos..but they dive in too quick..I need 101 level stuff.

    History: Bought used 2001 GTX in 2010, rode it hard till 2018 (no maintenance, no plugs, no nothing, last couple of years rough idle but still screaming when I last put it up. Seemed like battery was always going dead). Life got busy. Seadoo has been covered in outdoor storage unmaintained for 5 years. Took the covers off and powerwashed. Outside still looks great, engine compartment very nice, no critters or fluids in bottom.

    My guess at first few steps after 45 minutes perusing this site:

    1. Check for froze engine: Take off plugs, use pipe wrench(?) to try to rotate shaft. May need to oil/treat if piston rings stuck. If engine is hard froze....re-evaluate.

    2. If engine rotates, then: Drain fuel tank and replace filter(flush lines). Drain oil tank and replace filter(if there is a filter, flush lines). Fuel lines are black, so I assume prior owner did that maint. Somehow check if oil pump works(TODO). Clean/purge/blowout carbs(research if 2-strokes have actual carbs). I read there might be a plug under intake that should be opened/drained. How about exhaust(welch valve?).

    3. Use old car battery and cables and see if starter turns. If assembly/shaft rotates, replace plugs.

    3. If I got this far, I'm feeling pretty good.

    Followup items:
    * Pull impeller/rub ring correct as necessary.
    * Replace pump oil
    * Flush engine (it doesnt take oil, so somehow it gets lube)

    Thats all I got at this time..please jump in/correct/adjust me as necessary. All hints/tips/clues appreciated!


    Thanks,
    Jon


  2. #2
    This is how I run a jetski shop in the desert nmpeter's Avatar
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    better plan on rebuilding the carbs, if storage service was not done and the fuel tap was not shut off at the storage day.

    how would I handle this?

    pull the plugs and replace. if they show any rust at all drop a few teaspoons of injector oil in each jug and spin the engine a few times first, if all seems good at that point then a little premix down the jugs to see if the engine will spin up and perhaps cough a bit

    pull the carbs and rebuild

    drain tank.

    I'd skip the oil injection system for now

    DO NOT attempt to jump this ski off a running vehicle, the result aren't good for your wallet

    outside of that you have it covered more or less

    good luck!

  3. #3

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    Ok sounds good, thanks for the helpful feedback.

  4. #4

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    Update: Plugs were oily/fouled with tiny nodules/clumps on them. Scoped cylinders and they looked like a thick carbon-covering was on them except near ports and over plugs which looked rusty. On startup I thought engine was froze because at start-button blip the engine would stumble/stop and starter would whine (tied to fresh auto battery). I could rotate back/forth by hand for 2 degrees maybe. Then I read here about possibly pump being frozen so I removed pump and then engine PTO rotated by hand with no problems. Either impeller is wedged into wear ring or bearings in pump are froze. Impeller front/shaft seal was not snug and rough looking, so might have been water down in the cone. Will try to take it apart tomorrow and see.

    Also noticed after removing airbox/ducts/flaps that fuel pump in/out hoses were gray, but from fuel tank outlet all 4 hoses were black. Maybe some shenanigans went down (but I didnt know enough at purchase time all those years ago to know any difference anyway). Like you said (Capt Pete) I'll rebuild carbs and replace those lines while I'm at it. But I am thinking of doing a premix test, either dumped in jugs or some in the gas tank (do I clamp off oil tank line?). Also oil tank must be cracked (seems pretty common), is the most current accepted solution finding a singlepeice tank or plastic welding the existing one?

    Thanks and Regards,
    Jon

  5. #5
    This is how I run a jetski shop in the desert nmpeter's Avatar
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    pro tip:

    don't crack the pump open inside your garage, that old pump oil smells like ass and if your garage is attached, your wife will make you sleep in there for a week or two.

    there are two different sizes of fuel line on that ski, likely why only some of the lines replaced. Be sure to reinstall all parts exactly as they came out, especially the rubber flaps.

    you don't have to clamp off the oil line.

    the plastic oil tanks resist all attempts at repairs. if the ski runs, suck out the oil to about the halfway point so the leak slows down until you are sure you have a runner.

    then just buy a new tank ( under $100 ) change out the grommets too.

    and be cautious removing the fuel lines from the carbs, those fitting tend to break off if you look at them sideways

    use a really sharp knife to slit the hoses and gently remove them

    i have spoken.....

  6. #6

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    Sorry for delay, I finally have some progress to report. Thank goodness we have this site (and a couple of others ). Quick summary - we have a runner.


    Sequence for others troubleshooting a 2001 Seadoo GTX 947 (951) Carb mode. 113hrs, sitting idle for 5 years possibly seized engine.


    Background: Starter would engage, engine would try to spin but then stop and starter whined.


    1. Pulled pump/impeller housing, shaft frozen(cone had rust/sand/plastic bits, dry). Two weeks of PB Blaster soaking/banging and no budge on pump shaft. Might hit it with some heat before I take it to a local repair shop (Dales Jetski most likely).


    2. Driveshaft could now be rotated by hand via PTO after pump was taken off. Removed driveshaft, this was tough: built tool of 1x4 wood, PVC and PBBlaster(o-rings were clinging to shaft?) and almost breaking the wood before sleeve budged on shaft. Also repeatedly fogged carbs/cylinders and rotated to build up oil layers inside engine...she breathed better after a while.


    3. With fresh car battery hooked up the starter/engine would crank but not run/stumble. Put some fuel/oil premix in cylinders but still not run/stumble.


    4. Used inline spark plug tester and found no spark getting to plugs. Checked 15amp fuse in back ebox and 6 fuses up front on MPEM assembly..all good.


    5. Sanity check: I get 2 beeps on DESS key insert..MPEM "should" be good. Put test light on white trigger wires for each coil(2 coils in back ebox), and got dim flashes on crank, so I think stator/mpem/ignition pickup are good. Coils make strong "klunk" noise on start button. Weird..


    6. Did primary coil resist test on both coils and they were almost double spec per manual, so proceeded to remove coils. Unlikely both coils went bad at same time, and also noted both ground cables for coils were
    connected to same bolt and it was pretty corroded. So cleaned coils&bracket and reinstalled. Primary coils still measure out of spec, only slightly better now. Plug wires were within resistance specs, caps were pretty rusty but I could occasionally get a reading and they were within spec.


    7. Tried starting again but no spark..maybe a dim red flash every once in a while(imagined?). Pulled a bit on PTO cylinder plugwire and got constant spark and engine ran/stumbled for 3 seconds before I pulled key. Need new caps for sure, probably new coils before I'm done.


    8. Measured compression and have 110 on PTO(aft) and 113 on MAG(forward) side. Added some oil and noted only a slight increase in compression on both. Might get better once its ran more?




    Next actions:
    1. Having problems finding new coils online, was there a switchover to some other coils for 947 carb models? A retrofit to MSD coils/wires maybe?
    2. Before carb rebuild: When I pumped gas out it still smelled like good gas so I must have put stabilizer in it(whether I ran it through at the time I cannot remember). I think I'm going to clean&fixup plug caps good, test oil pump output, add fresh gas and flush lines and see how she idles. If I don't have pump freed by then I'll put it into shop.


    Thanks for your input Capt.Pete, it's really appreciated.

    ~Jon

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  8. #7
    This is how I run a jetski shop in the desert nmpeter's Avatar
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    Dales has been around for a very long time

    Iíd avoid hail Maryís on that plastic pump housing which is likely very brittle these days

    Iíve got a set of known good coil for a carbed 951 pm me if you end up needing them

  9. #8
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    The plug wires on these are solid metal core. The vibration causes breaks in them and poor running/ no spark/ misfiring, etc. My go-to is 7mm solid core spark plug wire available by the foot at your local NAPA. Yank the old plug wires, replace with new and a bit of epoxy to hold them in place in the coils. I've done MANY.

  10. #9

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    Thanks for tip on plug wires, I will do that. I could not find replacement plug boots (Shop said they were OEM) so I sanded/cleaned them a bit and will follow-up later.

    I siphoned crankcase reservoir and got about 20ml of fluid out with some oil-like properties. Topped off with fresh SAE30. After cleaning & tightening the plug boots and mixing a little 40:1 into gas tank I tried starting. I know oil pump is working as it totally smelled like semi-burnt oil on cranking. After I remembered there was a fuel shutoff(doh!) and opened it, she started right up (smoking a lot as she is probably double-oiled) and idled really well compared to 5 years ago when it was last rode. Water spray came out of exhaust and outdrive housing water stream got warm.

    So next steps:
    1. Pull carbs and clean/rebuild/re-hose as directed up thread. Really want to do this without jacking up tune but seems unlikely.
    2. Add 1100gph auto bilge pump. Wasn't aware of this need until I read a couple of threads on the topic.
    3. Pump/Impeller were rebuilt, so need to reinstall that and lube all cables/throttle/steering/etc.
    4. Check/replace water lines.
    5. ?? Replace plug wires and plug boots.
    6. ?? Pull rave valves and clean (and something about trimming?).
    7. ?? Replace oil filter
    8. ?? Check charging circuit at 3k revs(13-13.5v)
    9. ?? Clean bilge, treat rust spots, coat stuff with FF.
    10. ?? Test at speed/under load.
    11. ?? Add ladder

    Thanks again for help/advice/direction.

    ~Jon

  11. #10

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    Got the rebuilt outdrive installed this morning, installed a new etx30la battery for stronger/longer performance hopefully. I still need to check charging performance and fab a new battery tray. Bought the wife a used VXcruiser last month so we took them both out today. While wife&son testdrove the VX I adjusted the GTX idle on-trailer, checked for leaks, heat mgmnt, she is double-oiled(running premix too) so tested throttle response, etc. Idle was abt 1100 but she bogged/cutout on moderate throttle input. Adjusted idle to 1600 and she idled less rough. Decided to push my luck and launched her after making sure VX had a tow rope.

    Test results:
    *idled around nowake zone fine. Chked for more leaks, heat mgmnt, pissers, battery still bungied.
    *Apply increasing throttle she tried to go but stumbled& cutout. Unless I backed off throttle she died. Felt like fuel issue so probably still doing carb rebuild
    *Tried some more throttle related stuff as I understand there are multiple jets/zones, gathering more data, I was able to give it more throttle occasionally before it died. Was about to head back to trailer but gave it a few more big throttle gooses and one time she jumped out of the water like a firecracker. Pulled harder and accelerated faster than I ever remember. New plugs, new wear ring, repaired impeller, 5 yrs off the ski....whatever.
    *I found that over the next 30 attempts I could not replicate making it to crazy power zone, without bogging down/dying in mid-zone. Cannot make it happen at will..it just does. Eventually she got more likely at getting to power zone but would still stumble & die if I let off the throttle while in power zone.
    *I blasted around this side of the lake with the wife&son for a while, eventually finding that zone1(idle), zone3(high speed cruising), zone4(crazy power) were pretty stable and easily attained. Zone2 was better..but climbing into it or falling back into it felt like stumbles with the possibility of stalling. The zones are really just perceived throttle settings..

    So..I need to pull the plugs and scope the jugs, but I'm kind of feeling like I might leave carb removal&tuning till end of season...I'm more likely to mess that up worse than what I have going now.

    BTW: for anyone having problems removing/installing GTX 2001 driveshaft carbon ring retainer steel/collar thing(like me!), 5 seconds of Bic lighter on opposite sides so so so makes the job easier. Please pass this along as I never saw a video/website that mentioned it.

    BTW: The wifes VXcruiser(110hp) is smooth, fun, stable and comfortable...but d@mn the GTX is a wild bull waiting to stomp on you if you get too close the edge. I hope if we stick with the PWC thing I can find a fun one (4stroke) like her in the future.

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