View Poll Results: Should I buy th Triton WC2-2?

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  1. #1

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    Cool Best Aluminum Dual Axle and double PWC trailer with breaks

    I’m just about ready to pull the trigger on an order of a Triton WC2-2 Dual Axle and double PWC trailer with brakes, 13” aluminum wheels and spare w/mount for $5,200. I really haven’t seen any other comparable trailers. Is this the best trailer manufacturer or is there a good competitive option? How’s the price for 2022 given shortages and such?

    I’ve seen a lot of good noise about the wc2-2. That’s why I’m this far along, but if there are long waits, better alternatives, or better pricing it would be best to get some community feedback!

    Thanks in advance!
    Last edited by erixn13029; 01-17-2022 at 03:44 PM.


  2. #2
    Click avatar for tech links/info K447's Avatar
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    I have owned a Triton WC2-2 since 2017. I have since made many modifications, but the aspect I was most disappointed with was the factory brakes.

    It was delivered with drum brakes on only one axle and a surge coupler to operate the brakes. From day one the brakes were unimpressive. Perhaps my example was particularly poor, but overall I found nothing to like about the brakes. During braking the brakes would rapidly cycle, yanking the tow vehicle back and then releasing.

    I first used the trailer during a five week long distance tour of multiple different fresh water lakes. The braking action was so unpleasant that I disabled the surge coupler within a couple of days of beginning the trip. Drove some 4,000 miles without trailer brakes.



    Later on I found the factory adjustments of the brake shoes was incorrect, causing the brake pistons to over extend and jam in the bore.

    When I got home I lifted the trailer and removed the brake drums. Despite the trailer being only two months old and only used in fresh water, there was notable rust inside. The drums were also out of round despite being used for only a few days.



    I have since removed the entire factory drum brake configuration and install EHB powered Kodiak disc brakes on all four wheels. More expensive that the factory brakes but also a much nicer brake system. Smooth linear braking effort, no surging, and excellent braking power. Easier to maintain as I can visually inspect everything without taking the wheels off.





    I you do want to have Triton supply the brakes I will suggest disc brake option, not drum. On all four wheels, if possible.

    Surge brake coupler? Well, some people seem to have OK results with surge couplers, but for me it did not work out.

    If you want to replicate my braking configuration you will be specifying a lot of non-standard parts.

    I have made a bunch of other changes to my WC2-2.
    It now looks something like this, frame lengthened and reinforced with a forward deck area and enough room for a stand-up third ski on bunks.

    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Click image for larger version. 

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    Last edited by K447; 05-10-2022 at 08:30 PM.

  3. #3

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    Thanks @K447! See you post a lot about the WC2-2. Was hoping you’d chime in if you were still following this forum. Thought I’d post first vs DM because forums only benefit from open conversations. Love your brake job, pics and you taking the time for a detailed response! Greenhulk and members like you helping people like me with answering new questions that may have already been somewhat answered somewhere in older posts is greatly appreciated as it keeps info fresh and relevant.

    I’m now actually thinking of going without brakes because it should save money(and I can add later if it seems necessary); my state only requires brakes om trailers over 3000 gvwr; with 2 sea-doo RXT-X at around 950lbs and trailer I’ll only be at about 2,550 9doing some rounding) of 2950 gvwr rating on trailer (4000lbs gvwr w/ brakes0; and my tuck is rated for 10,400 lbs towing capacity.

    Any thoughts on ditching the brakes?

  4. #4
    Team Bilford's Avatar
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    Do not buy one with brakes...........

  5. #5

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    Quote Originally Posted by Team Bilford View Post
    Do not buy one with brakes...........
    thanks for the response@Team Bilfford. Feedback from bad experience or preference and experience?

  6. #6
    Click avatar for tech links/info K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by erixn13029 View Post
    … my state only requires brakes on trailers over 3000 gvwr;
    with 2 sea-doo RXT-X at around 950lbs and trailer I’ll only be at about 2,550 (doing some rounding) of 2950 gvwr rating on trailer (4000lbs gvwr w/ brakes)

    and my truck is rated for 10,400 lbs towing capacity.

    Any thoughts on ditching the brakes?
    Regulations in my region do not require trailer brakes unless the trailer total weight exceeds about 2,800 pounds. And a breakaway emergency breakaway tether is required to activate those trailer brakes if trailer is over 3,000 pounds. My trailer weight typically is a tad less than those numbers, but close enough that I have both.

    My SUV is rated for circa 5000 pounds of trailer weight. AWD with four wheel disc brakes. Without the trailer brakes it stops the trailer just fine, but it stops even better with the trailer brakes active. Stopping with the trailer is about the same as stopping with no trailer at all. There is no ‘pushing’ feel from the trailer. In fact, the trailer brakes make the car braking seem better.

    I have the EHD brake controller set to initiate braking at a medium level as soon as the center stop lamp illuminates (brake pedal lightly depressed). From there the EHD controller will increase trailer brake effort as it senses additional deceleration of the tow vehicle.

    The maximum trailer brake effort is set in the controller to be just shy of trailer wheel lockup. In a very hard stop the trailer will decelerate with maximum effect but stay in line behind the tow vehicle. If I need to steer and maneuver while braking, the trailer will maintain composure and not try to ‘steer from the rear’. Overall I am quite happy with how well the trailer handles and the brakes are part of that.

    Your 10,000 pound maximum trailer weight rating for your truck probably factors in the trailer also having brakes. Whether it is technically ‘legal’ to tow a given weight trailer without trailer brakes probably varies with every state.
    https://familytravelfever.com/towing...%20or%20injury.

    Note that ‘requiring trailer brakes’ is different than ‘requiring trailer brakes on each axle’ and there may be different rules for a double axle trailer.


    My perspective is that the trailer is a safer tow with properly functioning trailer brakes. Safer not only in the sense that the stopping distances are shorter and I have better control during emergency maneuvers.

    But also safer in the sense that I expect to tow the trailer many thousands more miles over the years. My WC2-2 has already traveled perhaps 30,000 miles so far, in less than five years. Already replaced all five tires once.

    I should expect that from time to time shit will happen. Not having trailer brakes is just stacking some of the risks not in my favour. How much, I can not predict. I would rather arrange the odds in my favour. So I have installed the best trailer braking system I could, on both axles.

    We have already experienced a handful of ‘oh shit’ moments while towing. During that first long distance tour with the crappy surge brakes disabled, we were gliding downhill into a small town (and watching my speed) which had a stop light just before the bottom of the hill (of course it was). Halfway down the hill I noticed that a road washing truck had just gone through and soaked the entire roadway with water. The traffic light turned red just as I approached (of course it would). Standing on the brakes the SUV pulsed itself to a full stop - more than halfway through the intersection. I could feel the trailer momentum pushing the car along as the main tires struggled to grip the wet pavement.

    If there had been a car crossing my path, or stopped in front at the light, bad things could have occurred. Would that same event occur now, the trailer braking assisting the car would easily stop within the available distance.

    We have had other moments since where the full braking assist from the upgraded trailer was appreciated.

  7. #7
    Click avatar for tech links/info K447's Avatar
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    I will say that having brakes on a trailer adds not only to the upfront purchase costs but also there is additional ongoing maintenance. Brakes need to be serviced, maintained and checked.

    Just like trailer wheel bearings, tires and lights, not maintaining the trailer brakes will eventually result in troubles.

  8. #8

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    Triton doesn’t do electric disc, so I’d probably have to figure it out and install myself/find someone to do it. Don’t want to pay for inferior surge to turn around and spend good money after bad.

    /sigh

    thanks again @K447

  9. #9
    Team Bilford's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by erixn13029 View Post
    thanks for the response@Team Bilfford. Feedback from bad experience or preference and experience?
    No jurisdiction requires brakes for 2500#. Most US States don't require it under 3000#. They are not needed and create maintenance issues as well as decreasing the quality of tow experience. They bring nothing but hassle to a sub 3000# rig. That's just my opinion, but its a strong opinion based on 40 years of towing.

  10. #10

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    @Team Bilford and @K447 - think I’m going for trailer without brakes and only going to do it if I see there’s an issue.

    Is Triton really the only dual axle game in town? Feel like I have no option to negotiate competitive pricing on…. Don’t want to do an online trailer company.

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