Best Aluminum Dual Axle and double PWC trailer with breaks

[K447]

Just ordered wc2-2 with 13” aluminum wheels and spare …

I replace my trailer tires after five years of age. I purchase new wheels with the new tires already mounted. Makes it easy to install the new tires.

Typically I will buy painted steel trailer wheels for fresh water use, or galvanized steel wheels if I expect they will experience salt water.

Trailer wheels on a marine trailer can degrade over time. Curb hits, corrosion, stone chips, bent edges, and so on. My trailer wheels are always less than five years old.

I consider trailer wheels to be a consumable item, not a permanent part of the trailer.

If a steel wheel (or the mounted tire) becomes badly damaged while on long road trip, a mounted replacement can be purchased at a nearby store with another steel wheel that will look very similar. With a damaged aluminum wheel, you do have a spare aluminum wheel to install at roadside, but you may want to promptly buy another wheel + tire to use as the new spare. That wheel will probably be a steel wheel.

When I replace my five year old wheels and tires (including the spare), the ‘still good’ removed tires (with wheels) typically are sold at a discounted price to someone local who understands the tires will soon be aged out. And they will not be running them on the highway, especially beyond the seven year age.

[Team Bilford]

Total weight of trailer and two PWCs shouldn’t exceed 2500-2700 lbs with gear. Don’t see any reason if I add EHD at some point to need to recertification for more than Trailer’s WC2-2’s 2950 GVWR.

Am I missing anything?

You don't need brakes for towing 2700 pounds unless your tow vehicle is a motorcycle. Surge brakes on something that light will drive you crazy with constant lurching and jerking. You actually need more weight to create a more linear plunger action. Trailer brakes are one of the most common failures in trailer dependability. I would never consider brakes in this weight range.

[moparguy]

Not sure what you are saying.

The GVWR for the Triton WC2-2 trailer is the weight posted on the factory trailer VIN sticker. If the trailer is factory built without brakes then the WC2-2 GVWR on the label will be just under 3000 pounds.

Adding aftermarket brakes does not change the sticker info. The trailer would still be rated for 2995 pounds, with the brakes added.

Triton has 2 different ratings, 1 with their brakes (4000lbs) and 1 without (2995lbs)

[K447]

Triton has 2 different ratings, 1 with their brakes (4000lbs) and 1 without (2995lbs)

Correct, per my photo of my WC2-2 VIN sticker with factory brakes.

http://greenhulk.net/forums/showthre...=1#post3154873

[DinoMite]

Why do feel Team Bilford has 7-inch gangly wrench in his toolbox.

Fantastic info in this thread guys, thanks!

[Team Bilford]

Why do feel Team Bilford has 7-inch gangly wrench in his toolbox.

Fantastic info in this thread guys, thanks!

I like Steve Martin!

[lungs414]

I have a '17 triton elite wcii. I did some upgrades, SS Boat buckles, new better Stolz rollers, all recommended by K447, (thanks agin) and they are great. The trailer is in my garage on jack stands for the winter, and I noticed grease on the back side of both wheels. I would like to take the hubs apart to inspect before using the trailer in spring. The trailer is at my other place so I called Triton with my serial number and they told me it has 1 3/8" bearings in it and recommended triton kit 07995.
https://www.hannarv.com/P/18686/TritonPGenuineTritonPartsinchBearingKit

Can someone tell me if I have to use these, I also would like to convert to bearing buddies, for reasons that Team Bilford mentioned. I do only ride in salt water, and would like to improve the trailer. They told me it is a sure lube bearing setup.

Also would I have to remove the zerk to use the bearing buddies?

[Team Bilford]

I have a '17 triton elite wcii. I did some upgrades, SS Boat buckles, new better Stolz rollers, all recommended by K447, (thanks agin) and they are great. The trailer is in my garage on jack stands for the winter, and I noticed grease on the back side of both wheels. I would like to take the hubs apart to inspect before using the trailer in spring. The trailer is at my other place so I called Triton with my serial number and they told me it has 1 3/8" bearings in it and recommended triton kit 07995.
https://www.hannarv.com/P/18686/TritonPGenuineTritonPartsinchBearingKit

Can someone tell me if I have to use these, I also would like to convert to bearing buddies, for reasons that Team Bilford mentioned. I do only ride in salt water, and would like to improve the trailer. They told me it is a sure lube bearing setup.

Also would I have to remove the zerk to use the bearing buddies?

Your bearings maybe be ok, but the rear seal is leaking. If you put BBs on it without replacing the seals, it will leak more. Pull the hubs and inspect the bearings for rust/pitting. While you have it on stands, spin the wheel and see if you hear bearing noise. If it looks good, replace the seal, pull the zerk and install BBs. It would be good to replace all of the grease in the hubs in case you have some salt water in there. As I have mentioned, Sure Lube is vastly inferior to BBs, especially in salt.

[K447]

I have a 2017 triton elite wcii. …

… I noticed grease on the back side of both wheels. I would like to take the hubs apart to inspect before using the trailer in spring.
… called Triton with my serial number and they told me it has 1 3/8" bearings in it and recommended triton kit 07995.
https://www.hannarv.com/P/18686/TritonPGenuineTritonPartsinchBearingKit

Can someone tell me if I have to use these?
I also would like to convert to bearing buddies, for reasons that Team Bilford mentioned. I do only ride in salt water, and would like to improve the trailer.
They told me it is a sure lube bearing setup.

Also would I have to remove the zerk to use the bearing buddies?

You can buy the Triton bearing+seal kit, or you can buy a good quality alternate rebuild kit.

If you have grease slung onto the insides of the trailer wheels then it is time to replace the hub grease seals. While it is all apart, clean and inspect the axle, looking for rust or pitting in the zone where the grease seal rides on the axle. That wear surface for the grease seal needs to be smooth and not grooved.

Sure-Lube might be a problem if you want to use Bearing Buddies
http://greenhulk.net/forums/showthre...=1#post3109500

http://greenhulk.net/forums/showthre...=1#post3090506

http://greenhulk.net/forums/showthre...=1#post3083046

http://greenhulk.net/forums/showthre...=1#post2650117

http://greenhulk.net/forums/showthre...=1#post2650585

When you have added grease to your wheel bearings, did the old grease exit the front or just disappear out the back. Into the axle on leaf spring Sure-Lube, onto the ground with torsion Sure-Lube.

[lungs414]

Leaf springs and it exited the front.