View Poll Results: Should I buy th Triton WC2-2?

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  1. #21
    Team Bilford's Avatar
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    Where are you located?

    Triton Feedback Their customer service is very low quality. The staff in CS does not know their products or vendors. They rarely if ever call you back after stating that they will . They will not send you ANY parts. You must order through their dealer network. Warranty for even little stuff like a light is a hassle that will make you go buy the part on your own.

    As K mentioned, I gladly welcome another manufacture to compete with Triton on quality and price. They exist in steel units, but not many aluminum. Like I said earlier, I bought it for the bunk and bow stop mounts, very well done and high quality.

  2. #22
    Click avatar for tech links/info K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Team Bilford View Post
    K,
    I have the OEM torsion axles from Reliable. They are of low quality. Their spindles are poorly finished and dimensions are all over the place. I would never use them again if given a choice. ...
    I had to replace the OEM axles on my WC2-2 in order to fit the 10 inch integrated disc brake hubs I wanted to use.

    During the year I had the original factory axles, I had no issues with them. Rode just fine, tracked fine, no weird tire wear patterns. Just had the crappy drum brakes.

    Unfortunately those factory 2,000 pound axles do not fit the larger inner hub bearing that the disc brake hubs require. So I upgraded to a set of new Torflex custom ordered axles. Same dimensions as the Triton OEM axles, but 2500 pound rated and, more importantly, with the larger inner hub bearing size (same size bearings as used on 3500 pound axles).

    Swapped in the new Torflex axles, sold the still-good original axles. Fitted the disc brakes and carried on.

    Axle alignment is critical with a dual axle configuration, as both axles need to not only be aligned with the trailer frame but also aligned 100% parallel to each other. Took some careful measuring and bolt position tweaking to get it all squared away properly. Since then, no troubles.



    1/HRCM-10-K
    INTEGRAL (ONE PIECE) HUB AND ROTOR. FITS 5 LUG
    WHEELS WITH 4 1/2" BOLT CIRCLE. 4 BOLT BRAKE
    FLANGE. FITS INSIDE 13" AND LARGER WHEELS.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Click image for larger version. 

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  3. #23

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    @k447, sounds like a WC2-2 was more like a donor trailer frame and it’s now all custom K477! Way to go…. Wish I had build skills and budget for it. Bet if you ever sell it that the new owner will be thrilled! Wow!!!

  4. #24
    Click avatar for tech links/info K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by erixn13029 View Post
    … WC2-2 was more like a donor trailer frame and it’s now all custom …
    That is how it worked out. If was going to start over I probably would be better off contracting for a custom built frame and plan everything more carefully.

    As it was, the requirements evolved as I used the trailer. There was no expectation for carrying a third ski at the beginning, that came along later. I did not realize how crappy the Triton drum brakes would be for me *

    I also found the 3x3 stock tongue was just fine with the stock coupler, but I had added a tongue extension. It was still ‘fine’ and indeed worked well for many trips, but the extension along with the Fulton hinge added some extra flex into the tongue.

    This together with the desire to carry another several hundred pounds of stand-up ski in front led to the addition of the 5x3 aluminum box sections under the original frame and that was extended forward to create a new, stiffer tongue. All together the modified trailer is not only longer that original, it is stiffer. I can jump up and down on that deck platform and there is minimal bounce or flex.

    It also tows very nicely. Not a single rattle or shudder going over rough roads or bumps, it is fairly quiet back there. No vibration or shaking at highway speeds, it tracks nicely even over railway tracks and uneven surfaces.

    A lot of the smaller upgrades happened as I learned more about how it ‘should’ be rather than just living with however it was originally configured. The factory tie down ratchet locations were not in the right places, especially the outboard mounts. The factory ratchets are small and not terribly strong, easily bent. And the strap return springs soon rust inside. The G2 stainless 2” is stronger and works nicely.

    I learned that the factory wiring for the marker lamps would vibrate apart inside the frame and short to the trailer metal, making the whole trailer blink as I drove along at night. So those connections had to be located, cleaned, reconnected and then held together with heat shrink tubing.


    * I had actually ordered the trailer from a local dealer with Triton disc brakes specified (I went to some trouble to verify that the correct order code was used) but the local distributor for Triton Trailers decided that spec was ‘incorrect’ and changed the order option to drum. I did not find out until many weeks later when the WC2-2 trailer was already built and in transit. I needed the trailer for my upcoming long road trip, and the distributor assured me the drum brakes would be better ‘for such a light trailer’.

  5. #25

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    Just ordered wc2-2 with 13” aluminum wheels and spare (surprised that 13” aluminum upgrade from 12” aluminum for 5 wheels and tires only $150 more)! No brainer.

    Quick questions about bearing buddies… are they needed, what do I need to know, are they all created equally or is there one that can be recommended for this trailer? Any grease recommended over another for bearing buddies?

  6. #26
    Team Bilford's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by erixn13029 View Post
    Just ordered wc2-2 with 13” aluminum wheels and spare (surprised that 13” aluminum upgrade from 12” aluminum for 5 wheels and tires only $150 more)! No brainer.

    Quick questions about bearing buddies… are they needed, what do I need to know, are they all created equally or is there one that can be recommended for this trailer? Any grease recommended over another for bearing buddies?
    I am a big proponent of BBs. You can search some of the posts that I have made concerning them. Buy Bearing Buddy brand. They have a weep hole that is uncovered if you fill the buddy too much. This protects the rear seal from inverting. EZ Lube is fine for utility trailers, but vastly inferior on marine trailers. The game is to keep the water from entering the hub so that you don't have to waste time and grease trying to push it all the way through the hub to get it out. I simply remove the zerk and install the BB. Sometimes, I install a set screw plug to fill the hole, but it's not necessary. They will come with a "bra" to cover the front opening to prevent any grease from slinging onto the wheel.

    Some people say that BBs will blow the seal out. That's just nonsense. The spring in the BB compresses at only 3 psi. What will happen is if you have a bad or worn out seal, the positive pressure of the BB will cause grease to leak out past the seal. I actually like to know when my seal is compromised.

    There is one issue that can occur with BBs. You want about .003 inch of interference between the hub and the BB. If less, the BB can work out because it is under pressure. If it starts showing migration, take it off and use Loctite 243 on it, not the hub and reinstall. If more than .003 interference, it is too tight and will cause the BB to become egg shaped. When that happens, the hub will leak around the OD of the BB. Just mic the hubs and the BB to make the best relationships. Every time you remove the BB, you will cause wear. Do not pull them off every year, you don't need to do that. Just keep the spring compressed a small amount and you will never have to take them off. I have run marine trailers with BBs for 18-20 years with no service at all and the bearings look brand new.

    Grease: Tritons come with lithium based grease because they don't know if the axle will be fitted with brakes or not. Lithium is inferior to calcium based grease like Mystic Mulit Purpose (green tube). I currently run Mystic Hi Temp Lithium (red) because I did not want to pull 4 hubs and clean them out to run the green tube.

    I use the 1980 in stainless steel. The blue indicator rings are nice, but not a big deal to simply push on the disc to check for movement.
    Last edited by Team Bilford; 01-19-2022 at 10:19 PM.

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  8. #27

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    @Team Bilford,
    A lot more great info! Thanks!

  9. #28
    moparguy's Avatar
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    Congrats on the purchase, I'd reconsider the factory drums for one reason. Trailer GVWR is 4000lbs not 2500, depending on your jurisdiction if you add brakes. You will have to get trailer re certified, D.O.T officers can be dicks sometimes.

  10. #29
    Click avatar for tech links/info K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by moparguy View Post
    … Trailer GVWR is 4000lbs … if you add brakes.
    You will have to get trailer re certified …
    Not sure what you are saying.

    The GVWR for the Triton WC2-2 trailer is the weight posted on the factory trailer VIN sticker. If the trailer is factory built without brakes then the WC2-2 GVWR on the label will be just under 3000 pounds.

    Adding aftermarket brakes does not change the sticker info. The trailer would still be rated for 2995 pounds, with the brakes added.

  11. #30

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    Total weight of trailer and two PWCs shouldn’t exceed 2500-2700 lbs with gear. Don’t see any reason if I add EHD at some point to need to recertification for more than Trailer’s WC2-2’s 2950 GVWR.

    Am I missing anything?

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