Recommendations for a trailer to travel from Mass to Fl.

[K447]

… a good tire brand ? …

Look for M speed rated ST tires. That will narrow the number of options you will find in the tire size(s) you are looking for.

Very few ‘made in USA’ ST trailer tires, even for brands that make other types of tires in USA.

I tend to purchase ST tire and wheel packages rather than just new tires. Easier to install, and easier to sell the ‘old’ tires * when mounted on the ‘old’ wheels.



* Trailer tires tend to suffer from age effects long before the tread wears out. The tire rubber age hardens and becomes more fragile. The risk of a sudden catastrophic tire failure at speed increases as the tire ages.

The absolute maximum age for a trailer tire is seven years from the DOT date code on the sidewall. I replace my trailer tires at five years. Including (and especially) the spare tire. All new tires, maximum age of five years.

* If I do sell the removed tires, I will make sure the buyer understands that they are near their age limit. Typically the buyer is looking for inexpensive tires to use on an old trailer that never goes on the road, perhaps just to launch their PWC in spring and pull it out in the fall, or move firewood around, or whatever, all on their own property.


This tire had gone maybe 500 miles when it shredded itself at speed, but it was six years old. It was my spare tire, which did not roll on the ground until I installed it a few weeks prior. It looked ‘brand new’ but the rubber had age hardened.



Rolling down the road on a regular basis flexes the tire rubber, which reduces the rate of tire aging, which means an old spare tire is typically the tire most likely to fail at speed.

[conroe]

Triton uses ST175/80R13 tires Load Star C rated. I belive these are speed rated at 81 mph

[K447]

Triton uses ST175/80R13 tires Load Star C rated.
I belive these are speed rated at 81 mph

Tire size: ST175/80D13 Bias tire
Load range: D
Maximum load: 1,610 lbs at 65 psi
Maximum speed: 81 mph (speed rating M)

Apparently only some Loadstar 13 inch tires are speed rated M.

https://www.etrailer.com/Trailer-Tir...a/AM1ST77.html

This Kenda “Loadstar” example (Load Range D) is not a radial tire, it is the old-school bias ply tire type.
I prefer radial ST trailer tires for long distance and fast towing as the tire heats up less and consumes less fuel.

My initial web hunt did not reveal a Kenda radial ST tire rated M.

Kendal’s own web site seems to omit speed rating info

https://specialty.kendatire.com/en-u...ailer/karrier/

ST175/80R13

[K447]

Here are two examples of M speed rated radial trailer tires

https://www.etrailer.com/dept-pg-Tra...askmaster.aspx

[Mr. GP1800]

I don’t recommend pulling any trailer at 80 mph whether the tires can handle it or not

[K447]

I don’t recommend pulling any trailer at 80 mph whether the tires can handle it or not

Not disagreeing. As speeds increase the potential downsides escalate should something go wrong.

Whether that be a trailer problem (tire problem, bearing failure, load shift, loose bolt, whatever), something with the tow vehicle, a road issue (pothole, whatever) or another road user (you know, everyone else). The faster we go, with a trailer, the worser it can get in a bigger hurry.

The tire blowout I posted earlier happened at those speeds, in the leftmost lane of a multi-lane highway. Things went from what is that noise to why is the car shaking to the tire coming apart in just a few seconds. Before I could get across all three lanes to the road shoulder the trailer fender was torn away and the shredded tire cords were flailing against the ski hull.

We so sometimes tow at speeds close to 75 mph but immediately reduce speed when encountering traffic or anything else that might further reduce safety margins.

Trailer and tires get inspected before starting out each day, and then rechecked at every stop, including checking temperature of each tire and each wheel bearing. Lights are checked too.

Marker lights, brake and turn signals also checked.

Since I have electrically controlled trailer brakes, they get checked using the controller override lever. The trailer brakes can slow the car and even bring it to a full stop. I can really feel the deceleration when I manually activate the trailer brakes while driving.

We also do a trailer check about ten minutes after starting out. Re-check the hold-down strap tensions front and back, various latches, plug-in wiring connector, safety chains, coupler and latch, etc.


Over 1300 miles the travel time difference between 80 mph and 70 mph is about two hours.

[steve45]

Fish Man, carry a grease gun with you so you can re-grease the bearings before your trip home. A plastic trash bag and some paper towels reduce the mess. Run the max pressure in your tires. Rotate your tires every year and make sure the spare gets used on the ground, too. Make sure you have a jack & lug wrench that will work with your trailer, a scissors jack works well.

[K447]

Fish Man, carry a grease gun with you so you can re-grease the bearings before your trip home. A plastic trash bag and some paper towels reduce the mess.

Run the max pressure in your tires.

Rotate your tires every year and make sure the spare gets used on the ground, too.

Make sure you have a jack & lug wrench that will work with your trailer ...

I prefer a D jack for lifting the trailer axle. Quick to use, which can be important when working roadside. Works with leaf spring and torsion axles.

Lug wrench just for the trailer, kept with the trailer. I also carry a handful of spare lug nuts in the trailer.

Bearing Buddy allows quick grease top-ups as needed. Do not over-fill the Bearing Buddy, the excess grease will sling out the front and make a mess.

But if the grease level is changing quickly and the Bearing Buddy indicator keeps moving in *, grease is leaking out. Which means the inner grease seal in the hub is probably worn and should be replaced.

* When Bearing Buddies are first installed and grease is pumped in, some air will be trapped inside. It is normal for the air to work it’s way out as you drive. The Bearing Buddy level indicator will move in. Expect to top-up the grease level several times after installing a Bearing Buddy and driving around. Eventually the trapped air will all be gone and the grease level should then change very slowly as you drive distance.

I prefer a high quality wheel bearing grease. A wheel bearing in good condition and well greased should never become hot, even after long distance at speed. Moderately warm, but still tolerable to put your hand on, is the warmest it should get. Both hubs should be about the same temperature.

If one hub gets warmer than the other something may be wrong.
Axle nut too tight on the bearings, bearing worn or internally failing (factory defect or installation error, perhaps).
Or water has seeped inside and the bearing is beginning to rust, which will eventually lead to complete bearing failure.

Check trailer tire pressures each morning. Both should be right at the sidewall maximum pressure, up to a couple of PSI above is OK. It is normal for the air pressures to rise further as the tire warms up on the road. Do not reduce trailer tire air pressures that increase due to highway travel. The pressure rise is a normal aspect of tire operation.

At each stop during the travel day I will use the back of my hand to check each trailer tire sidewall for temperature, and also touch each hub for temp. All should be warm but still comfortable to touch, and consistent from wheel to wheel.

[erixn13029]

Over 1300 miles the travel time difference between 80 mph and 70 mph is about two hours.

Wisdom… 2 hours vs your life and possibly family, friends or innocent stranger(s)…. Hmmm. Drive responsibly and safely for good karma! LOL

[Thor]

Positively THANKFUL for all the knowledge on these boards, in these threads!