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  1. #31
    sdlvx's Avatar
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    Pro 785 is very unique and there isn't ever going to be a ski like this ever again. The Kawasaki SXR 1500 STAND UP weighs more and is bigger. Even the new 4 stroke superjet is 375 pounds, it's only 100 pounds lighter than a full couch. The death of two strokes has ensured there will never be a small 475 pound sit down ever again (though the 4 stroke guys will show up and mention the EXR that weighs an extra 70 pounds and is about a foot and a half longer)

    These things are violent even in stock form, after an hour of riding I have a hard time opening up my hands all the way because I'm holding onto the handlebars so hard. I actually cracked the hull where my foot goes and the stack that comes up and mounts the handlebar base to the top part of the hull is filled with stress cracks from me holding on to it so much. One second you are going 55mph one way, the next you do a 180 and are back at 50mph then launching 3 feet in the air. There is simply too much power in such a small hull which makes it amazingly fun. I have had mine for about 20 years and I never shy away from fixing it when it breaks.

    If you want to get rid of the calcification and build up, I had luck with soaking it in vinegar. I boiled a few gallons in a big pot on my stove then dunked them in and it ate mine up pretty good. I have a lot of calcium in my well water and I have to do this to showerheads and stuff, it works. You just have to make sure the wife does not see you boiling your head pipes on the stove in her pots lol.

  2. #32
    She likes the bike. But the ski gets her wet!!!! xlint89's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by CaptJack View Post
    Hello, cheers for the feedback. I have been reading up on these skis and there are some very nice builds out there.
    I have cleaned the parts down a little but need my parts washer working again properly.
    The cylinders have definitely had work done to them. It looks like the head may have been resurfaced a couple of times. There are large aluminium shims between the cylinder and the head.
    There is silicone everywhere through the motor.. I hope this isnt standard assembly process for these motors lol
    On another note, I have been cleaning the hull inside and cannot locate where a hose connects to help flush the cooling system. any clues?
    I'm definitely keen to get this up and running now.

    I have searched for the previous owner and may have some further progress on that to share later on.
    Shims between the cylinder heads is odd. You would need to have a seal/gasket on both top and bottom of ay shim. I wonder if it was someone's attempt to reduce compression to be able to run lower octane fuel? There's a really good chance that engine used race fuel. 100+ octane

    Silicone is not usually required for engine assembly. The engine case is sealed with a quality sealant like 1211, or Yamabond. Factory cylinder base gaskets may have had a bead of silicone on them, but most aftermarket gaskets do not. They work just fine without. Some people do like to use a thin coat on gaskets.

    There is no cooling flush adapter with that set up. It could have had one if it had the factory cooling bar, but that was eliminated during the modifications. You can possibly install one yourself if you feel it's worth it. I have installed a sea water strainer into my cooling system to prevent small particles from accumulating inside those small cooling orifices I spoke about in the previous post. (cooling manifold) If you were to install a strainer, you could easily adapt or modify it to work with a fresh water flush set up.

    You could do something like this.
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  3. #33
    Rasta Mon Condoms We Be Jammin!!!!! TxVirageTx's Avatar
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    i would imagine the porting is matched to those pipes,as was the compression ratio.probably 112 octane.show us the pump stator and prop and ride plate.the cylinder domes should have dots on them designating the compressiuon

  4. #34

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    Below are some pictures of the bottom of the hull.
    There is some very minor damage that I will epoxy up when the time comes.
    I'll do a cut and polish on the red top section of the hull in order to attempt to revive it. Worse comes to worse I'll send it across to my mate who is a boat builder to complete a more professional job and re-spray and new vinyl decals.

    I found a local guy who can rebuild my crank for me. Its a 3 month wait so I located another older guy who might also be able to help so I'm in the market now for a rod kit which includes lower end bearings and new bearings for the crank.
    Crank rebuild (does not include rods or bearings) $1200-$1500 Aud

    I found a place that can re-coat my cylinders with new Nikasil coating to match the pistons so I'm also after a piston kit. Its going to be a 3-4 week wait on the cylinders after I get ahold of the pistons first.
    Re-coated cylinders x 3 $1650 aud

    I have removed the cylinder head bolts from the cylinders. Its always daunting removing these from the head.. thankfully they all came out without much of an issue. Plenty of lok-tite on these!

    Still need to check the MSD system. All of my fingers are crossed that the system is working.

    Attached are pictures of the jet assembly too.

    I have been reading a few of the builds on this website. You guys have contributed a hell of a lot on these skis and hope I can get this one up and running. There are a few videos from Hyoctane23 on youtube that I have been watching daily at the moment to keep up the motivation. I have also been looking at plenty of the Polaris triple snow mobile videos on youtube.. No snow anywhere near me but these triple 2 strokes sound absolutely fantastic and cant wait to have one for myself.

    I'll try and keep this post up and going as I progress.
    Cheers for the help fellas!


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  5. #35
    Click avatar for tech links/info K447's Avatar
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    Looks like the jet pump also has a bunch of upgrades.

    Cable operated trim nozzle, possibly also linked to the steering angle
    12 vane stator
    Aftermarket/adjustable pump tail cone?
    Impeller?

    While you are doing all this, donít forget to service the through-hull seals and bushings.
    Along with the bearings and seals inside the jet pump hub.

  6. #36
    She likes the bike. But the ski gets her wet!!!! xlint89's Avatar
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    Wow, it just keeps getting better and better for you. That 12 vane jet pump is not common and really helps with the acceleration.

    What numbers are stamped or possibly hand written on or inside the impeller?

    I don't recall seeing the outside of the cylinder heads. Just the combustion chamber. I'd like to see if it was aftermarket or OEM please. If aftermarket (most likely) There should be some dots stamped on the outside of the heads indicating what compression they should be. That can tell us what octane fuel would be required for use.

    As far as pistons go, many have used standard size Polaris 750 pistons with no problem. Especially since you're going to have the cylinders re-plated. So they can set whatever clearance you want. That should make it much easier and cheaper to find than 785 pistons. My only reservation with that might be the use of cast pistons though. If that is a high compression engine, you might want the added strength of forged pistons. Which will definitely add to the cost. I don't know if you're considering using Wiseco forged pistons? I'm not sure if they have changed the formula of the pistons, but they had a tendency to recommend a piston clearance that was too tight. A lot of people experienced piston seizure if the cylinders were not up to temperature and you went WOT. If I remember correctly, the solution was to open up the clearance slightly larger than what they recommend.

    Long story short, once you decide what pistons you're getting, let us know and we'll help you out.


    I really hope you can get that boat back to it's original glory. I think you'll be extremely impressed with it once it's all dialed in. There aren't many that were as heavily modified as that.

  7. #37

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    I have made up a list of parts but before I order anything I wanted to test out the MSD setup.
    The programable ignition control is part number 2530 so I wired everything up as per the installation instructions on a table and tested for spark with the coil part number 4293.
    I tested all channels and there was absolutely no spark. I tested the coil there there is no resistance across any channels so I'm assuming the coil is dead.
    After testing the ignition control it does have resistance however I dont have the specifications on what the resistance should be..
    There is a small LED on the ignition control. Is this meant to be lit when there is power..? or just during the programming stage? this is not lit at all.

  8. #38
    radio-active's Avatar
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    That MSD unit was in the electrical box with all that corrosion? Ugh. Good luck with that.

  9. #39
    She likes the bike. But the ski gets her wet!!!! xlint89's Avatar
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    I cannot find any info for you on the MSD, but Hyoctane seems to have a working unit in his ski. Maybe he can chime in on this for you.

    1999 Pro 785 Superstock Build (greenhulk.net)


  10. #40
    Let me out of here......I need to go on Greenhulk!
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    MSD 42351 was discontinued and no longer available. I see them pop up on ebay every once and a while but that can be a crap shoot. Look into Zeeltronic ignition - https://www.zeeltronic.com/page/products.php Unless you decide to go back to stock. These new ignitions are fully programmable and have options for PV controllers and other accessories .

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