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  1. #1

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    2001 xl1200 pop off pressure help.

    Hi guys, i finally got the crank back from crank works.

    i got the motor all back together. before i drop it in a wanted to do a clean and rebuild on the carbs to make sure they are good.
    I have new kits.

    i was curious what the pop off was on the carbs before i took them apart.
    i believe i was doing it right. plug all holes except the inlet and pump it up from that line with wd40 on the needle seat.

    the cylinder that seized carb had 0 pressure. i put the carb in a pot of water and tried to pumped it up.
    it leaked very bad around the pump base body side.

    the middle carb has 78 psi.
    the third one blows my caps off before it pops.

    this motor and carbs where built by SBT and only had about 20 minuets on it.
    So I'm told...

    my friend installed it himself. so i know he didn't bleed the oilier.
    He also installed a D ring kit with the plug.

    i have seen the kit but have never installed one, so i don't know if anything extra has to be done like jetting.

    i do know that it has 1.2 needle

    a 87.5 jet and a 117.5

    from what i have read i think it should be a 1.5 needle and around 56 to 65 pop off ?

    that's why im asking.

    and i don't know if its a e or u motor.. how do you tell ?

    it the 2001 silver/grayish.. 1200

    thanks...


  2. #2
    tom_'s Avatar
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    As the pop-off pressure should be around 60PSI (at least for the 66U engine, 1999 XL1200) and normal fuel pressure is around 6PSI you can expect leakage around the pumpbody with 10x pressure on the fuelline. To test the pop-off on these you should test directly in the hole under the needle inside the carb.

    Check the check valves, and if the fuelpressure restrictor is not drilled out for balancing I would recommend that aswell, http://greenhulk.net/forums/showthread.php?t=177671

    If the engine is otherwise stock, I would go with stock settings from servicemanual.

  3. #3
    DavidH's Avatar
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    Unfortunately I can't answer your pop off question, but something is surely wrong if there's no pressure.

    I do have a question for you. When did you send your crank to Crankworks? I sent mine in September and they still have not done the teardown/inspection. I have called them twice and last time they said their press was down and my crank was still waiting in line. I can't get them to tell me how long it will be, was hard to get the guy to even say "two weeks to a month" for them to look at it. He would not quote me on that time, I had to pry it out of him.

    How long was yours there before they worked on it, and how long to do the work/ship it back?

  4. #4

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    Quote Originally Posted by DavidH View Post
    Unfortunately I can't answer your pop off question, but something is surely wrong if there's no pressure.

    I do have a question for you. When did you send your crank to Crankworks? I sent mine in September and they still have not done the teardown/inspection. I have called them twice and last time they said their press was down and my crank was still waiting in line. I can't get them to tell me how long it will be, was hard to get the guy to even say "two weeks to a month" for them to look at it. He would not quote me on that time, I had to pry it out of him.

    How long was yours there before they worked on it, and how long to do the work/ship it back?
    it was in june. it took about 5 months to get it back. it was out about 50 days before i called them. they called me two weeks later with the teardown info. they only have one guy rebuilding cranks right now and they are 50 cranks deep.
    Your going to have to call and kinda hound them a little every couple of weeks and ask for an update. .
    2020 took a hit on everyone.

    i have a friend who knows the owner so what they are telling you about a back log is true.
    they have to wait on parts now just like we do.

    I have used them for over 20 years and always got my cranks back in about 5 weeks.
    i know it sucks...

  5. #5

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    Ok guys. i got two of the three done. had to snip the spring to get them to come down to 60/63 ish because i don't have other springs.

    I still cant get the one carb to seal tight enough to get a pressure reading. looks like someone used sand paper to remove the old gasket.
    it has some scratching.

    im sure that's why its leaking. i can get to about 20 psi and no more . then it will bleed off in about 5 seconds.
    i submerged the carb in water and when i pump it up. the base just bubbles all the way around.
    i took them apart about 6 times cleaning and wiping the body with acetone. made a little more pressure.

    im about ready to put a light bead of silicone around the edg and see if that at least helps.
    im probably going to have to get another new gasket set for that carb.

    its not bleeding out the needle.


    im sure someone must have had this problem before ? what did you do out side of finding another carb ?

    Thanks, Phil

  6. #6
    tom_'s Avatar
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    Snipping the spring should not be an option, you will sooner or later then end up with problems, instead get a rebuild kit which also includes new springs.

    And as said, the high pop-off pressure will make the base leak, if the base can hold 20PSI you are fine (normal pressure on the inlet is 6-7PSI), the pop-off on these should be tested directly inside the base, not through the inlet nipple.

  7. #7

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    Use grease on all your gaskets… this will aid with sealing them.

  8. #8
    jeffg426690's Avatar
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    On the fuel pump side you can wet sand w a stone block to true it up for easy good sealing (avail on Amazon). Or use regular wet paper up to 1000 grit w a flat block, metal ruler works well. Learned that trick from Butterbean, works great and is easy for truing up sealing surfaces. In a sink w a lil' running water makes it a breeze.
    Also, instead of submerging the carb, just spray w some soapy water and you'll see bubbles easy.

  9. #9

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    Quote Originally Posted by tom_ View Post
    Snipping the spring should not be an option, you will sooner or later then end up with problems, instead get a rebuild kit which also includes new springs.

    And as said, the high pop-off pressure will make the base leak, if the base can hold 20PSI you are fine (normal pressure on the inlet is 6-7PSI), the pop-off on these should be tested directly inside the base, not through the inlet nipple.
    how do you test inside the base ?
    I did get new kits and the springs that came in it also put it over 75psi.

    after cleaning and a light sanding
    I noticed that the o-ring with on the inner side that that go's around the filter and has the straight line through it is a little thicker.
    i cut the center and outside off it and used it in place of the other o- ring.
    that seamed to work and i could get it to 63 ish psi like the others no prob.

    I never checked the reeds until now..
    The reeds in the cylinder that burnt up had aluminum stuck on it and the end was burnt off.

  10. #10

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    Well.. i decided to order new kits. just not happy with they way things went on these carbs. i ordered new needle seat kits also.

    This is the first time rebuilding these kind of carbs and am not very please with the way they turned out.

    I have worked on 2 and 4 stroke motorcycles for a long time but never watercraft.
    rebuilding the motor was simple. rebuilding this style carb is new to me.
    seams simple enough and their probably very close, but i don't feel confident about them yet.

    if they were mine, i would probably run them as is. But it would not hurt to learn how to rebuild them the correct way.

    thanks for your help and suggestions

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