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  1. #1

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    Fogging and Antifreeze

    I'm going to be storing my 2021 FX SVHO inside this winter. Indoor Temps will likely get down to the mid-high 40s worst case.

    I should be OK to skip fogging the cylinders and running antifreeze ( Temps safely above freezing) correct?

    I've always fogged the outboard which sits outside wrapped, but I keep reading mixed info on it.

  2. #2
    Click avatar for tech links/info K447's Avatar
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    Fogging the engine is about protecting metals inside the engine from risk of rusting. That has little to do with cold temperatures, other than cold storage tends to be for long duration.

    Storage at less-cold temperatures makes it easier for unprotected metal to rust, if there is sufficient moisture in the air the engine is exposed to.

    What you want is dryness. Hull kept dry inside and allowed to ventilate.

    You want the waterbox to be holding minimal water inside, having been ‘cleared out’ by firmly blipping the throttle several times. The throttle bursts are repeated until the hull exhaust exit is no longer spewing/burping much liquid water with each blip. With the waterbox cleared the amount of water remaining in the exhaust system should be minimal.

    The waterbox is actually a primary source of moisture during storage which can waft towards the non-running cold engine via the exhaust system. The backsides of the exhaust valves and stems would be exposed to that moisture. Get that water box cleared using the engine exhaust bursts and the problem diminishes.


    For SVHO engines the challenge is that there is no easy way to introduce the fogging spray into the actual engine. Anything sprayed in through the supercharger air inlet is going to be slung around by the wheel and then coat the intercooler fins. Some of the fogging oil may make it through the throttle body and filtered through the ribbon disc (flame arrestor) inside the stock plastic intake manifold. *

    Some of the oil that reaches into the actual engine will be (partially) combusted inside the cylinder. And then some of the residual will blow out past the exhaust valves. How much of the fogging stuff you spray in manages to get through all those elements and adhere to the backside of those exhaust valves and stays there? I could not estimate.

    Some guys remove the spark plugs and flow some fogging oil into each cylinder. Which is not a bad thing. The inside of the cylinders certainly will not mind. Not seeing how the stuff would make it to the backsides of the exhaust valves.


    The topic of anti-freeze is mostly about risk of water expanding while in a solid state (frozen) and damaging whatever metal cavities the water is trapped inside. Since your minimum air temperature is well above the freezing point of water there is no risk of engine damage due to water freeze.


    * Recent posts have identified a risk of engine damage from the presence of the OEM flame arrestor ‘disc’ which is located inside the plastic intake manifold. Even with a totally stock engine and stock ECU tune the disc (and the rubber sealing ring) can become loose and potentially migrate towards the engine cylinders.

    The consensus seems to be that the disc should be removed. Either as a specific work item or as part of some other engine related work.
    Last edited by K447; 10-23-2021 at 08:11 PM.

  3. #3
    WaterDR's Avatar
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    I see no reason to use AF. -30F here…never an issue.


  4. #4
    Yeah I agree, Yamaha's winterization procedure doesn't mention antifreeze and I, as well as many others don't do it and have never had a freeze problem. The only thing they recommend is the stabilize the fuel, change the oil and fogging of the engine. They want the engine fogged in three stages, first through the intake ahead of the SC, then in the manifold after the IC and then directly into the spark plug holes. Lastly coat the entire engine bay and pump assembly with corrosion inhibitor but that's more important for salt water applications.

  5. #5
    Click avatar for tech links/info K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Supertoyz View Post
    Yamaha's winterization procedure

    They want the engine fogged in three stages, first through the intake ahead of the SC, then in the manifold after the IC and then directly into the spark plug hole. ...
    Where is this documented?

  6. #6
    ptscon's Avatar
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    If you don't feel like fogging just start it up for 10 seconds once a month.

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  8. #7

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    That isn’t good to do at all. Cold starts are most crucial in engines. On top of being it’s running for 10 seconds and not getting up to operating temperature. Condensation is more likely to build up inside the engine. Just fog it and be done. Or leave it alone.

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  10. #8
    WaterDR's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Supertoyz View Post
    Yeah I agree, Yamaha's winterization procedure doesn't mention antifreeze and I, as well as many others don't do it and have never had a freeze problem. The only thing they recommend is the stabilize the fuel, change the oil and fogging of the engine. They want the engine fogged in three stages, first through the intake ahead of the SC, then in the manifold after the IC and then directly into the spark plug holes. Lastly coat the entire engine bay and pump assembly with corrosion inhibitor but that's more important for salt water applications.
    Where have you seen that? It’s not in my manual.

  11. #9
    Tech Exchange Doc WCA2011-003


    Can't seem to find my copy but if you call Yamaha customer service they'll email it to you. It's from 2011 but they told me it's the latest winterization guide they offer and still applies to all current models.

  12. #10
    Found it
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Yamaha Winterization.pdf  

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