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Thread: My GPRXP build

  1. #21

    Join Date
    May 2010
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    Alabama
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    So this one was a while back, I had to screen shot from Instagram so please excuse the artsy filter. We took apart the charger for a rebuild and never finished it. It's still in pieces in my garage. I ordered D2 steel washers and McMasterCarr tension spring washers because I'm cheap. I guess that needs to be put back together. I'm still sticking with stock X charger because I really dont want to drop all the coin on a 137+4, injectors, and a tuning credit right now. And I don't want to introduce potential tuning issues on top of everything else going on.

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  2. #22

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    May 2010
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    I scrounged a chunk of nice new hose for the midshaft. I still need to get 2 stainless T bolt clamps since I'm going to be running the bearing floating with no bracket.

    Also I included a pic of the intake I'm going to be trying. Cheap ebay 3" silicone 90 to some 3" aluminum gas cylinder I cut in to about 6", then a stainless mesh filter I accidentally bought 3 of for my old GP1200R thinking they would work as flame arrestors. Total new investment, $8.

    And so that brings the build thread to present day. Still to do:

    -Mount and plumb closed loop heat exchanger to water supply and intercooler.
    -Figure out where I'm going to have space for an electric bilge pump, plumb to factory speedometer through-hull
    -Rebuild engine once ARP head studs arrive
    -Rebuild supercharger
    -Figure out gauges (mine are dead)

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  4. #23

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    So when I bought my HO pump, the seller included 8 nozzle to pump bolts. They're too long to attach the pump and setback to the transom. So I've had them mocked up with some zinc bolts from the hardware store. I just bought some used OEM bolts from Brian and as soon as I got them, the lab wanted to sniff them. After they passed testing, I installed the hardware and bolted everything up including the ride plate. There was a pretty big step from the shoe up to the ride plate so I just put one washer on each bolt to shim it down a little. I don't know when I'm going to shim it more or less or mess with the angle at all. I still need to replace the factory speedometer cable gland with a bilge pump discharge fitting, but for now the back end of the ski is done.

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  5. #24
    Steve-m31164's Avatar
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    Looking good mate , doing a great job . I used a candoo gps for the speedo . You can change the dash to show km but measure in mph . I may have one for sale soon ... buy a ebay heat exchanger for it aswell .

  6. #25

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    Worked on my electric bilge pump setup. I got the thru-hull off a FX or VX or something and opened up the speedometer cable gland hole in the hull. Perfect spot for it. And got a freebie Rule, made a bracket. We'll see if this pump stays or if I get an automatic.

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  7. #26

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    And yes, I do love playing with my nuts... RivNuts. I put two more inserts in the hull and mounted up the voltage regulator. I don't know where my factory Yamaha hull ducts went, so I had to use some extra 4" dust collection hose. It's aimed to bring fresh air right over the regulator.

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  8. #27
    Click avatar for tech links/info K447's Avatar
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    I presume you know to loop the bilge pump exit hose quite high inside the hull (way above the outside water levels) and fasten it in place up there. And to include a siphon breaker elbow (has a tiny air breather hole in the elbow) at the highest location in the bilge hose loop.

    The high loop is to prevent outside water pressure from pushing water backwards through the bilge hose and into the hull.

    The breather hole is to prevent water from being pulled into the hull after the bilge pump stops running. When the pump stops, the water in the hose right above the bilge pump will fall back down the hose. When it does it creates a negative pressure (suction) higher in the hose. Without the air hole the siphon effect would draw water into the bilge continuously.

    With a functioning breather hole it allows air into the hose during that moment of suction and breaks the siphon effect. A bit of water backflows and then it stops.

    I prefer to have my bilge pump exit fitting up high where I can easily see the water flowing out. The flow alerts me that something has gone wrong. And there is no chance of reverse flow from water the hull outside going backwards through the bilge pump.

    I currently use the Whale SS1212 automatic bilge pump.
    I have posted details elsewhere on the pump and my install.



    http://greenhulk.net/forums/showthre...=1#post3141384

  9. #28

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    Quote Originally Posted by Steve-m31164 View Post
    Looking good mate , doing a great job . I used a candoo gps for the speedo . You can change the dash to show km but measure in mph . I may have one for sale soon ... buy a ebay heat exchanger for it aswell .
    Thanks! I've been reading through all the GPRXP build threads on this forum... its fascinating seeing all the different solutions that people came up with to solve problems. There's so much knowledge available and its almost like cheating getting to come along afterwards and copy the homework of the people who figured this all out 15 years ago.

    As far as the heat exchanger, I actually ended up with 2x 30 plate exchangers. I put in a bid on one, then found one I could buy now, then won the first auction on my dirt cheap bid. So I have my choice of mount or fittings.

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  10. #29

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    Quote Originally Posted by K447 View Post
    I presume you know to loop the bilge pump exit hose quite high inside the hull (way above the outside water levels) and fasten it in place up there. And to include a siphon breaker elbow (has a tiny air breather hole in the elbow) at the highest location in the bilge hose loop.

    The high loop is to prevent outside water pressure from pushing water backwards through the bilge hose and into the hull.

    The breather hole is to prevent water from being pulled into the hull after the bilge pump stops running. When the pump stops, the water in the hose right above the bilge pump will fall back down the hose. When it does it creates a negative pressure (suction) higher in the hose. Without the air hole the siphon effect would draw water into the bilge continuously.

    With a functioning breather hole it allows air into the hose during that moment of suction and breaks the siphon effect. A bit of water backflows and then it stops.

    I prefer to have my bilge pump exit fitting up high where I can easily see the water flowing out. The flow alerts me that something has gone wrong. And there is no chance of reverse flow from water the hull outside going backwards through the bilge pump.

    I currently use the Whale SS1212 automatic bilge pump.
    I have posted details elsewhere on the pump and my install.



    http://greenhulk.net/forums/showthre...=1#post3141384
    Hmmm so on the venturi, I have it peaking as high up behind the coolant resevoir as I can get it. I'm using the factory yamaha 90 degree check valve piece on that.

    For the electric bilge, I was planning on doing another high loop, I hadn't put any thought to the anti-siphon breather. That does make sense though.

  11. #30

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    Finally decided on mounting the heat exchanger. I put a Riv nut in the fiberglass nipple, and the other side I'm using a pump shoe bolt. Got a scrap chunk of of 1" thick rubber and some stainless plate/sheet that's almost 1/8" thick. It took a hand sledge to bend it in to shape. It's not going anywhere.

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