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Thread: My GPRXP build

  1. #281
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mikes1200STXR View Post
    Awesome project! Lot of hard work here
    Thanks! I have a little more to do before a test ride and winterizing. Hoping to post a speed number before the snow falls


  2. #282
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    So I had wanted to straight pipe both of the relief valve feeds for simplicity. Unfortunately, on the left side of the ski, where I put the second water feed off the strainer, the thru-hull nipple is in the way. The hose would end up kinked basically no matter what. So I decided to compromise. 1/2” 90 to barb, with a huge hose up to the check valve in the existing bracket I had made.

    I got the fittings, but Lowe’s wanted $20 for 10 feet of 5/8 reinforced hose. Absolute bonkers. So I fired up the Google and found Advance auto selling it by the foot. So $1.70 later we have a flex hose ready for lab testing. As soon as I get this installed, the ride plate can go back on and I can do a water test



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  3. #283
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    Finished up the left side relief hose and got the pump back in. Ride plate’s mounted. Now I’m just waiting on the wind to drop to take it for a test ride.



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  4. #284
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    Engraved and cut out a degree wheel to help set base timing at zero in the future. I’m going to need a 135mm collar clamp to attach it to the midshaft after I cut it in half. Then I’ll be able to set TDC, set the wheel at 0 degrees lined up with a mark on the mid-bearing. Then use a timing light to check 0.

    This won’t be with the stock ECU setup, I’m just getting stuff ready for the future



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    Last edited by John's truck; 09-27-2022 at 04:10 PM.

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  6. #285
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    Got the 2 piece collar today. Monday I’ll mount the blue wheel to it and test fit it. For anyone who’s gotten to this point and is scratching their head - I don’t plan on sticking with the stock ECU. I want to go to a stand alone, and because of that I’ll have to build my own ignition timing tables. And I’ll have to tell the software where the trigger wheel is so that it knows where TDC is to know where to fire the coils. supposedly the stock trigger gap is at 304 degrees BTDC. But if you remember from my engine build, my trigger wheel is rotated 2 bolt holes (120 degrees). But then I’m using an 06 crank in an 04 PTO. Which means the crank angle sensor moved 127? degrees. So math wise that means my base timing is 7 degrees off, ish. When I go to set up my timing, base timing MUST be set to zero. Not just when the engine is idling, but let’s say I’m shooting for 35 degrees at WOT and really getting 28 or 42. That’s either down on power, or exploding. So zero must be zero so the ECU knows that 35 is 35.

    So I need to rotate the engine to top dead center, probably turning it using the midshaft. If I had a spare driveshaft I’d make a tool with a breaker bar and just spin it from the back of the ski. Then I’ll install the clamp and wheel with the 0 mark lined up with a mark I’ll make on the mid-bearing. Then, I’ll use a spark plug extension wire and a timing light. This is because a timing light doesn’t work with the signal wires for a COP. Needs to be the high voltage below the igniter. Anyways I should be able to lock timing at 0 in the software and then disable or disconnect the injectors and turn the engine over on the starter to check zero while cranking. If I’ve told the software the correct trigger position (304? BTDC) then I’ll see zero line back up with the mark. If it’s off a few degrees, I’ll just change my number in the software (305,306… 311?) and keep repeating until it does match up. Then I know that the ECU knows the exact position of the crank trigger gap and can accurately control ignition timing.

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