Page 2 of 3 FirstFirst 123 LastLast
Results 11 to 20 of 25
  1. #11
    steve45's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    Texas
    Posts
    8,676
    +1
    892
    Yes, you'll need that gasket. Aftermarket is OK on that.

  2. #12
    Thanks for your help!


  3. #13
    Stupid question time. When I've rebuilt carbs in the past, and even when I watch people rebuild carbs on YouTube, the carbs look clean and there's nothing wrong with them, visually. So when you're rebuilding them, which pieces are the ones that we assume are going bad?

  4. #14
    steve45's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    Texas
    Posts
    8,676
    +1
    892
    A carburetor should be clean inside, but many are not. If ethanol, water, or dirt get in, you may see corrosion in the form of rusted screws, sticky needle valves, corrosion on flapper valves, and trash in the inlet filter. Diaphragms are often replaced, but it depends on the carb. Parts for some carbs are very expensive and parts only get replaced if they are bad. You can hold a diaphragm up to a light and see if there are any pinholes or tears. Gaskets should always be replaced. I rarely replace springs, and if I do, I compare the ones in the kit with the originals by pushing them together. If one is stiffer than the other, the weaker one will compress. Likewise, I usually don't replace the needle & seat, either.

    Check the pop-off pressure. There are a number of YouTube videos on how to do this. You will need to buy or build a gauge setup to do this and get specs from your manual or from people here.
    Last edited by steve45; 10-06-2021 at 09:29 PM.

  5. #15
    Myself's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    North Central Arkansas
    Posts
    4,981
    +1
    510
    And......the 1100 runs a divorced fuel pump. Buy a new one or rebuild the stocker as well.

  6. +1 by:


  7. #16
    I've been reading a ton about the oil blockoff kits and only one place I saw someone making a comment about needing to adjust the needles because with pre-mix, it's a leaner fuel input. If I put on an oil pump blockout kit, do I need to make other adjustments (other than premixing the fuel?) I will have the carbs off so this would be the time. I have stock needles and seats already (oem yamaha)

    (I also have a new fuel pump on hand as well, the double output one, but will be blocking off one output)

  8. #17
    steve45's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    Texas
    Posts
    8,676
    +1
    892
    I'm not a fan of pre-mix, but it's your choice. Mixing in 2% oil (50:1), really won't affect the mixture much. Not nearly as much as changes in air temperature, and elevation if you ride in different places.

    The Yamaha oil injection system is a good design because it pumps oil into the engine even if the carbs get plugged up with gum, etc. Add in the pre-mix requirement to carry oil with you when you fill up, and do math while standing at the gas pump. Plus the fact that some oils don't stay mixed with the gasoline during storage...

  9. #18
    In all honesty I'd rather not do the block off. Are there rebuild kits for these, do I get a new one, or is the design bullet proof enough that you'd trust it after 250 hours? Someone else mentioned replacing the crank seal.... is that an engine pull job?

  10. #19
    steve45's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    Texas
    Posts
    8,676
    +1
    892
    The Mikuni oil pump is the most reliable part on your 'Ski. It has been used on virtually all 2-stroke watercraft as well as motorcycles for years. There are many variations in design, from one output to five (that I know of), fixed ratio and variable ratio, but they are all basically the same. The biggest problem with the lube system is the hoses. Surprisingly, even with only clean fresh oil flowing through them, the oil filters can get clogged (new oil DOES contain contaminants). I've also found some sort of deposits in the oil lines.

    Regarding the crankshaft seals, yes, you have to pull the engine and open the crankcase to do it.

  11. #20
    Well I appreciate all your help Steve. I will leave the pump and replace the lines. As soon as I can find the authentic mikuni carb rebuild kits for the 96 wave venture 1100 I'll start pulling it apart but no one has them and no one knows when they'll be available so it's a waiting game.

Page 2 of 3 FirstFirst 123 LastLast

Thread Information

Users Browsing this Thread

There are currently 2 users browsing this thread. (0 members and 2 guests)

Similar Threads

  1. Maintenance...Pre and Post ride
    By VeXeD in forum Yamaha How To & FAQs
    Replies: 4
    Last Post: 01-28-2013, 09:01 PM
  2. Pre and Post ride checks
    By kenod in forum Yamaha PWC Performance (2-stroke)
    Replies: 0
    Last Post: 11-11-2008, 10:49 PM
  3. pre-hurricane ike ride
    By Carlos_33010 in forum Southeast
    Replies: 7
    Last Post: 09-10-2008, 08:59 AM
  4. Sunday 9-7-08 Pre-hurricane Ride
    By barbaro in forum Southeast
    Replies: 12
    Last Post: 09-07-2008, 07:52 PM
  5. newbie, Pre&Post Ride ?'s
    By olson_joseph in forum Sea Doo Open Discussion
    Replies: 1
    Last Post: 06-03-2008, 05:12 AM

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •