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  1. #71

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    Lol…. We’ve rebuild carbs at the kitchen counter as well!!!

    Looking good dude!!

  2. #72
    DavidH's Avatar
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    Following Oside Bill's GPR 1200 case rebuild thread, I got my cases back together tonight. Man does it feel good to make some progress. Smokey thunder here we come. All torqued down in sequence with sealant, green loktite and grease in all the right places.
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  3. #73
    DavidH's Avatar
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    Today, I got the pistons installed, put the jugs on, and the head. I got the exhaust manifold on as well and everything is torqued down ready to go. I'll do the pressure test tomorrow morning and then do the flywheel/generator. If it all goes well I might get this engine back in the hull tomorrow too, but not trying to rush myself. Pictures to follow, my phone broke yesterday so it's tough for me to load them right now.

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  5. #74
    DavidH's Avatar
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    Didn't get any in progress pictures cause my screen is busted, but I pushed through the broken glass and half working screen to get these for today.


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  7. #75
    DavidH's Avatar
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    I spent several hours fabricating my pressure test pieces, and still didn't get great results. I am more than satisfied with the pressure of the engine once I was able to keep my plate covers from leaking. I need to make them from thicker material, but I do have a great set of templates so I can send them to my buddy to make some of 1/4" plate. We have collectively 3 more GPR's to rebuild in the next year or two so they will come in handy. My plate material was just too thin to hold any pressure without clamping and holding my tongue just right. But with doing so, I could hold 6-7 psi with no leak down for the two or three minutes I could keep everything from leaking. I work with composites and vacuum bags all the time, so I know what a leak down test should look like and how to listen for leaks. I also used a lot of soapy water to ensure every leak was in my test apparatus and not the motor. When I finally chased all the trouble spots out, the only engine leak I could find was on the powervalve covers. I took these off and smeared a thin 1211 on both sides of the gaskets. With this and everything else, it would hold pressure to my satisfaction. Good to go--onward. OOps, wait. Now I can't find my spring for the nose of the starter. So once again, I'm on hold for a few days. I ordered one and the washers and I'll be back in business. I know I bagged them up but cannot locate them. Oh well, I accounted for all the rest of the bolts and I don't see any further holdups from here. Just can't go on for a few more days. Still hoping for vroom vroom before Christmas. That's the goal and I'm not going to rush anything at this point. I even put some good filled epoxy in one of the reed cage screw holes that seemed to be on the verge of stripping out before I put that in on Saturday. Cheap four bucks insurance to make sure that screw doesn't find its way into the crank.

  8. #76
    DavidH's Avatar
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    Looks like Rich at WFO is going to come through for me once again. THANK YOU! He should have a spring headed my way on Monday so hopefully I can still get the motor back in the ski by Christmas. It may end up being Sunday or Monday, but the plan to have it all back together next weekend should still be in play. I have a few things I can do tomorrow, putting the flywheel on and cleaning up any of the bolts still remaining, but this spring is the thing holding me back from final assembly and installation.

    Doing some thinking, I need to get the engine installed, with shims in place on the motor mounts. Install the electrical connections and ensure all the bottom of the hull wires are in and correct. Put the carb rack on and tighten it all up. Hook up the fuel lines including the primer setup, and clean all that up. Prime the fuel lines, fresh fuel and premix. Put premix signage on the fuel cap area and oil tank caps to ensure it is fueled properly in the future. Oh, carbs need to ensure all the pulse lines are on and tight. Put the throttle connections on. Probably have to pull the head back off to squeeze the exhaust on. Hook up power valve servo linkage. Ensure all the water lines are connected to the exhaust (pissers and such). Head back on. New plugs. New battery. I think that is about it, please let me know if I am missing something.

  9. #77

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    You don’t need to pull the head to install the pipe, slide the U pipe in first. Then you can bolt the ring joint to it, then bolt the ring joint to the manifold.

  10. #78
    DavidH's Avatar
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    Well here it is, Christmas Eve. I received the spring from WFO and spent an entire 20 minutes completing the engine build ready for install. I will get the motor into the ski tomorrow, and depending on family requirements might have it ready to start tomorrow or Sunday. Even with any issues I see this thing running before I go back to work on Tuesday. Merry Christmas everyone, I'll keep you updated as best I can.

  11. #79
    DavidH's Avatar
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    I got the motor installed yesterday, thanks to Greg and my boys to help with that. I put the carb rack on and today I have been hooking up all the plumbing. I got everything in now except the exhaust, which is going on after lunch. I have a new battery and all the premix fuel I need to fire it up this afternoon. I woke up this morning with a wide grin on my face. Fingers crossed it all goes as planned.

  12. #80
    butterbean_29512's Avatar
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    FWIW....you can install the carbs on the bench and then install the complete engine assembly into the hull on the GPR's. Thats always the preferred method for installing the carbs.

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