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  1. #1

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    Sep 2021
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    Msx110 help needed

    Anyone have the digital wrench and adapter to clear the codes on my msx110?? I’m from Kansas City and am desperate for codes to be cleared. Ski runs great then kicks into limp mode for 5-10 seconds then goes back full power Keeps doing this. We have torn ski apart and done so many repairs so praying at this point it’s a phantom code that needs cleared. Any recommendations or anyone have the equipment near Kansas City????


  2. #2
    Ye Ol Salty Dog's Avatar
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    You only need to correct the failure to get the ski running right again. When you say limp mode, is there a check engine light? Or no?

    does it correct itself temporarily with a restart? Then come back again when you hit the throttle?

    when it’s in limp mode, what’s the maximum engine rpm?

  3. #3
    Ye Ol Salty Dog's Avatar
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    If it’s cutting out, then correcting itself without a restart, and doing it again, it sounds like you need spark plugs or an ignition coil.

    in other words, you don’t need to worry about clearing the codes with digital wrench.

  4. #4

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    Sep 2021
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    So it runs correctly. And then after a while it’ll just go into limp mode and max out at 3950 RPMs. The check engine light will come on and the high temperature light will come on. It will stay in limp mode with the lights for 5 to 10 seconds and then it will correct itself and go back up to full RPMs and full power for several minutes and then it will do the same thing check engine light will come on it’ll kick you down into limp mode at 3950 RPMs And it will stay like that for 5 to 10 seconds and then I’ll kick back into full power. When it does this you can pull the seat and nothing is hot so it is clearly not overheating I have replaced all the sensors. And the thermostat. And like I said nothing is overheating and it doesn’t take a restart to reset the computer it’s just going in and out of limp mode on its own every five minutes or so and last for 5 to 10 seconds and then the ECU resets itself and goes back to full power

  5. #5

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    Sep 2021
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    Has new plugs n coils. So it runs correctly. And then after a while it’ll just go into limp mode and max out at 3950 RPMs. The check engine light will come on and the high temperature light will come on. It will stay in limp mode with the lights for 5 to 10 seconds and then it will correct itself and go back up to full RPMs and full power for several minutes and then it will do the same thing check engine light will come on it’ll kick you down into limp mode at 3950 RPMs And it will stay like that for 5 to 10 seconds and then I’ll kick back into full power. When it does this you can pull the seat and nothing is hot so it is clearly not overheating I have replaced all the sensors. And the thermostat. And like I said nothing is overheating and it doesn’t take a restart to reset the computer it’s just going in and out of limp mode on its own every five minutes or so and last for 5 to 10 seconds and then the ECU resets itself and goes back to full power

  6. #6

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    I was told that they can hold phantom codes and a clearing of the codes with fix the ecu if it is phantom or stored codes.

  7. #7
    Ye Ol Salty Dog's Avatar
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    No, your problem has nothing to do with phantom codes or anything like that, you have an overheating issue, or a bad temp sensor. If you’ve changed all the sensors with no change in the symptom, it sounds like you are, in fact, overheating.

    is the raw water system unrestricted and clear? Have you checked the pickup screen? Is the jet pump healthy? Is the coolant clean and filled appropriately? Have you backflushed the raw water system to check if there is sediment in the heat exchanger? Has it ever overheated and lost its coolant? Is there overpressurization in the cooling system? Is there proper coolant flow in the bottle indicating that the water pump is working properly?

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  9. #8
    Ye Ol Salty Dog's Avatar
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    The ECU isn’t resetting in and out of limp mode, the engine is cooling off when the engine speed is cut back, and after it’s within the proper temperature range, it lets you run wide open again until the overheat condition returns.

  10. #9

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    Try disconnecting the raw water temperature switch (in the exhaust manifold), and run it like that. I agree that is sounds like a temperature problem based on your descriptions.

  11. #10

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    Sep 2021
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    When it says it’s overheating and does this It’s not hot anywhere in the engine. U can touch all over and nothing is hot. And it only lasts for 5-10 seconds. If it was really hot it would take longer to cool I would think. And yes. It has been cleaned. Flushed. New jet pump. It did have a coolant leak in 2 hoses. Which were replaced. Coolant is holding pressure now. There is coolant flow. I’m at a loss of what could be wrong at this point.

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