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  1. #11

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    Thank you guys. I will see if i can find that bulletin. I guess the main reason i am concerened is i install the up date gen 3 ignition kit, and dont have spark. So i moved my red purple wire per service bulletin and still nothing. I measure the voltage at battery while cranking and am seeing 11.5 volts dc. Witch i believe is good from everything i read. If i put my little lithium battery booster on i have spark and it seems to run very good, BUT when i remove the booster it goes into like a limp mode. I have checked charging system and we are at 13.5 volts while running. I have also checked all my grounds to the engine whit and meter all seems to be good. Once i shut the machine down it will not restart unless i put booster back on. I have Tried 3 different batterys all brand new so i dont think that is my problem. Im stumped and have countless hours into this machine. Thanks for the advice already I really appreciate it.


  2. #12
    Click avatar for tech links/info K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by KRR View Post
    Thank you guys. I will see if i can find that bulletin. I guess the main reason i am concerened is i install the up date gen 3 ignition kit, and dont have spark.

    So i moved my red purple wire per service bulletin and still nothing.

    I measure the voltage at battery while cranking and am seeing 11.5 volts dc. Which i believe is good from everything i read.

    If i put my little lithium battery booster on i have spark and it seems to run very good, BUT when i remove the booster it goes into like a limp mode.

    I have checked charging system and we are at 13.5 volts while running.

    I have also checked all my grounds to the engine whit and meter all seems to be good.

    Once i shut the machine down it will not restart unless i put booster back on. I have Tried 3 different batterys all brand new so i dont think that is my problem.

    Im stumped and have countless hours into this machine. ...
    Put the red/purple wires all back together, with no jumper to Orange.

    Measure the cranking voltage right at the CDI power wires. Red/purple to black, right at the wires that go directly into the CDI module.

    I suspect there is a voltage drop somewhere between the CDI and the battery posts.

  3. #13

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    Ok guys finally got some time to look at this machine again. Its been a super busy year to say the least. I went threw this machine again and tested everything. So I tested my voltage like k447 said and i was getting 10.7 volts at the red purple wire at the cdi box. Then I measured the voltage coming from the cdi to the hall sensor. (brown wire) and i only have 4.6 volts coming out of the box. So I decided to try yet another battery this time it was a car battery being that's all i had laying around. And bam just like that I have spark. So I'm assuming that the batteries I'm getting from interstate are not good enough for this application. But now is the interesting part even though i have spark I cannot get this thing to fire up all the time. One time it will start and run just fine, then the next time it will start and not rev up like it is in limp mode. And now I cant get it to fire at all but still have fire. I've unhooked the mfd as well. I tested the stator and all but one test seem to be good but I'm not sure what to make of this. The hall effect sensor test with the nine volt battery is what I'm referring to. My ohms when I turn the crankshaft are suppose to be 25 ohms or less and change quickly. My readings are 125 ohms on all three wires and they do change rather fast, Is this normal?

  4. #14
    Click avatar for tech links/info K447's Avatar
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    Check for some secondary problems.

    10.7 volts is really marginal voltage at the CDI. It is ‘enough; but right on the edge of no-spark too weak voltage while cranking.

    Put a proper new high quality battery in there. I recommend the Deka ETX16 AGM battery. Car batteries with jumper cables is asking for trouble, unwanted voltage spikes can kill the CDI and/or LR module

  5. #15

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    Ok I will get another battery. How about those ohm readings I had on the hall effect? They seem high compared to the specs I found in your info k447.

  6. #16
    Click avatar for tech links/info K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by KRR View Post
    ... How about those ohm readings I had on the hall effect?

    They seem high compared to the specs I found in your info k447.
    The exact ohms do not matter. What matters is the sudden and very large change in ohms when the magnet passes the sensor.

    What you want to see is a sudden change from many hundreds of thousands of ohms (or greater) to maybe one hundred ohms (or less) when the small timing ring magnet passes and then back to many hundreds of thousands of ohms (or greater) when the magnet moves away.

    The ‘official’ ohm numbers shown in the Polaris service manual are measured using a specific Fluke model multi-meter. The service manual calls this out. Using other meters can produce slightly different ohm numbers when measuring Hall Effect sensors. Those small differences in values do not matter.

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