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  1. #11
    sdlvx's Avatar
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    Aug 2007
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    Wisconsin
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    Wiseco/cometic for gaskets, WSM for pistons. People hate on SBT, their reman engines seem to be the biggest problem with mechanics doing things wrong. Their parts seem alright, not OEM quality but if it's between SBT or nothing, I am grateful for what SBT does.

    Would I use a rebuilt SBT crank? No. Would I use their connecting rods? Yes.

  2. #12

    Join Date
    Apr 2021
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    20
    The entire engine will need to be gone through due to all the debris everywhere from the piston. Based on the slight end play I have with the connecting rod at the crank, I'm thinking I'll need bottom end parts as well. I'm not sure how to check if the crank is worn, or if just the bearing can be replaced and reuse the same crank?

    I'm looking at 2 choices...
    1) Try and source all "good" parts and rebuild my existing engine myself (which appears to be more expensive). If I need a reman crank, where can I source that from? SBT offers a complete rotating assembly for $350, but if their machine work isn't good, it's no better than a complete engine.
    2) Take my chances on a complete engine exchange from SBT. I would have thought this was the smart way to go... all new / reman / good parts, assembled by a shop that does this for a living, 1 year warranty, I don't mess with all the hassle of going through an engine myself. But now that I'm being cautioned against it, I don't know what to do.

    Other than a few suppliers for top end parts only, its seems SBT is still the only option?

  3. #13
    sdlvx's Avatar
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    Wisconsin
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    Crankworks in AZ or Northern Crankshaft in MN, ship whatever is closest, or call around. You can find people who will do it local so you don't have to risk shipping it. Search for machine shops.

  4. #14

    Join Date
    Apr 2021
    Posts
    20
    I've been asking everyone I know and calling around, haven't been able to find anyone who works on multiple cylinder 2 strokes.

    I'm in CA so I'll give that Crankworks in AZ a call.

  5. #15

    Join Date
    Apr 2021
    Posts
    20
    I need to verify my specific engine model by getting to the stator and checking the size of one of the bolts. I believe I need to remove the flywheel assembly which will require removing the large center nut and using a puller that threads into the 3 threaded holes right?

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  6. #16

    Join Date
    Apr 2021
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    20
    Can anyone help? I'm need to get to the stator, but want to make sure I don't break something. I believe it's behind the flywheel I have pictured above and will need a puller that threads into the 3 holes right?

  7. #17
    Click avatar for tech links/info K447's Avatar
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    Jul 2007
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    near Toronto, Canada
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bluedmax View Post
    Can anyone help?
    will need a puller that threads into the 3 holes
    Have you made use of the information resources that can be found at this link?
    http://polarispwcknowledge.shorturl....t-things-to-do

    And here

  8. #18

    Join Date
    Apr 2021
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    20
    I’ll ck them out, thx.


  9. #19
    If you haven't already done it, just get a standard harmonic balancer puller from the auto parts store. You can rent them for free, but I just bought one a long time ago since I'm always working on something with an engine. They're not that expensive and you'll probably use it again. Don't thread the puller bolts into the flywheel more than 4 or 5 turns or you can contact the stator and destroy it. Also, don't be afraid to hit the center puller bolt with an impact wrench to get the flywheel to pop loose. They can be really stubborn. Neither or mine were, but some folks have reported that they are practically welded on and go off like a shotgun when they turn loose. Anyway, don't King-Kong the impact wrench. Just a few quick blips of the trigger will probably do it. "Finesse" it as they say.

  10. #20

    Join Date
    Apr 2021
    Posts
    20
    Great info thanks for sharing, this is exactly what I needed! I rented a puller and it worked perfectly. Your tips were also extremely helpful. I see what you were saying now about threading the bolts in too far and would have definitely done that if I hadn't known. I also had the "shotgun" release and would have been nervous about how tight I was getting it if you hadn't mentioned that either.

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